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Thread: Engine Swap
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02-13-2014, 07:28 AM #1
Engine Swap
Im looking into doing an engine swap. I want to know if by removing my front end would it be possible to remove the engine through the top? I dont have a lift or anything high enough to remove the k-frame and remove the engine by dropping it.
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02-13-2014, 07:33 AM #2
Removing the front end doesn't give you more room for the engine since this is a uni-body car. Everything you see inside the engine compartment from the core support and inner side strut towers is one piece and does not unbolt from the car. Just the joys of owning a frameless car.
However removing the front bumper might give you more room to roll the hoist in closer if your hoist isn't long enough. Many have pulled the engines from the top, however not as easy.
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02-13-2014, 08:01 AM #3
Agree - out the bottom is the way to go. We have seen some pretty interesting methods of yanking engines on here. A couple have been downright scary. Like FBJ posted, you can get it out the top.
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02-13-2014, 08:38 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
I have no lift (and that is the preferred way) so I pulled mine out the top. I removed the nose piece because (1) gave me 18" closer to the block and (2) protect it from scratching the nose piece up.
MARK EVERY CONNECTOR WITH TAGS AS YOU DISCONNECT THEM!! USE & LABEL ZIP LOCK BAGS FOR BOLTS!!!! KEEP TRACK OF BAGS!!
This will make your life so much easier on reassembly.
Besides removing the nose piece, recommend removing:
A/C Condensor & radiator.
PS Pump - you can remove it and let it hang. I removed mine because of other issues need to fix.
A/C - Again you can remove or let it hank.
Intake & Fuel Rails can be remove as a unit. Cover the fuel lines after you disconnect.
Heads - Some ppl don't remove the heads, I did. I had to do a complete break down so it saved me one step later. If you leave the heads on remove the coil packs but keep the valve covers on. They'll protect the rockers and cheaper to replace if it get's crack.
Remove or disconnect the transmission
Disconnect the headers but don't remove. You are lifting the block out so no need to fish out.
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02-13-2014, 09:22 AM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
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- Alabama
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- 3,625
Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
I am pulling mine out of the top with the Transmission still attached. So far it isn't that difficult but it's not out yet. It has been too cold to work in the garage. The only thing I have left is to pull the driveshaft out, it is disconnected just not removed then it should all come out no problem.
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/
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02-13-2014, 09:48 AM #6
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- Feb 2009
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
The reason I recommend disconnecting the transmission is that if you leave it attached to the block you will need to have it on jack stands and need to lift the block much higher and have a steeper angle in order to clear the firewall and front radiator support.
I'm not saying you can't do it this way just makes it easier if the transmission is off.
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