electrical problems?

**GottaHaveLS1** · 05-07-2007, 09:00 AM

I've heard this is common in gm cars, but nearly everytime i start my car, the trip resets and the speedo & tac needles shoot almost all the way up. Now i noticed that my front and rear blinker (on either side) as well as the little blinker that i see next to the speedo, is flashing weird. my friend first noticed it when he was driving behind me. It will flash like normal the first time but then "double flash" the second time. I'm not sure what going on and i know the batteries fully charged. any ideas?

**2001NBMZ28** · 05-07-2007, 09:15 AM

Don't know what's going on with the blinkers - but the trip reset/gauge sweep on start up happens on the '99 cars when battery voltage is low or the connections are loose. I'd have it load tested.

**GottaHaveLS1** · 05-07-2007, 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28

Don't know what's going on with the blinkers - but the trip reset/gauge sweep on start up happens on the '99 cars when battery voltage is low or the connections are loose. I'd have it load tested.

what does load tested mean?

I've also heard that problems like these could be a sign that the alternator is going. that doesn't sound good....

**2001NBMZ28** · 05-07-2007, 09:51 AM

Bring the battery to some place like auto zone - they'll put it on a tester for free, only takes a couple minutes. If that's not it at least you eliminated the battery as being the problem. Here's the TSB on the trip reset, doesn't mention the gauge sweep but usually happens at the same time: http://home.earthlink.net/~cetera/pics/aug99tsb.jpg

**SteveC** · 05-07-2007, 10:17 AM

I agree, the battery is going south.

SteveC

**Steve Crowe** · 05-07-2007, 07:28 PM

It can be either but if the car is cranking fine chances are the alternator is going out.

What happens here folks is the alternator will put out plenty to charge the battery but it's a noisy DC signal - battery doesn't care but the car's electonics are affected. This is caused by the internal regulator starting to fail.

They can test for this at most parts stores.

Ensure you've got the battery and connections eliminated first as they're the easiest to eliminate.

**0rion** · 05-08-2007, 12:37 AM

Originally Posted by Steve Crowe

It can be either but if the car is cranking fine chances are the alternator is going out.

What happens here folks is the alternator will put out plenty to charge the battery but it's a noisy DC signal - battery doesn't care but the car's electonics are affected. This is caused by the internal regulator starting to fail.

They can test for this at most parts stores.

Ensure you've got the battery and connections eliminated first as they're the easiest to eliminate.

solid advice right there.

I know steve doesn't agree with the method but if I suspect an alternator the first thing I do is put a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the car is running. steady 14.4 volts= good less voltage or fluctuation voltage = bad.

**oldguy** · 05-08-2007, 04:08 PM

Seen this before and it was corroded terminals once and loose terminals another time.

**Steve Crowe** · 05-08-2007, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

solid advice right there.

I know steve doesn't agree with the method but if I suspect an alternator the first thing I do is put a voltmeter across the battery terminals while the car is running. steady 14.4 volts= good less voltage or fluctuation voltage = bad.

14.4 is not the definitve test, even a failing alternator can put that out into a good battery as a good battery will limit at or near that voltage.

Rotten day folks, crack in one of my Enkei wheels. $200 if they fix, $100 if they farm it out. Having no MIG/TIG here I'll take it to a friend who will flux the crack and, if possible, weld it for $50