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Thread: cooling
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07-19-2009, 07:36 AM #1
cooling
maybe someone can help me with this i put the 160 thermostat in but it doesn't do anything my car still runs around 195 i want to buy a new relay setup for my fan to be able to adjust it to come on at 160 do i have a radiator prob or a thread in i don't know the diff between the two what else can i do to run around 160 as it is if i idle more then twenty min's with AC on i'll over heat
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07-19-2009, 07:43 AM #2
Sounds like you might still have some air in the system if your overheating. Even untuned, mine wouldn't heat up.
After I put my thermo in, I got the fans tuned to come on at a different time.
Here's what frost told me from the tune.
Your car had fan temps lowered. Even with the 160 stat, the car will still run around 190-something at cruise and we don't want to wear out the fans if they aren't helping. Low set on at 194, off at 188 and the high fan comes on around 204 (stock is 235).
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07-19-2009, 07:50 AM #3
how can i get the fan tuned to come on lower
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07-19-2009, 08:04 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
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- North Jersey
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
My tuner did the same for me. I dunno what the setting is though.
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07-19-2009, 08:05 AM #5
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07-19-2009, 08:10 AM #6
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07-19-2009, 09:02 AM #7
A professional tuner, mail order tune, or a hand held programmer will all work to reset the fan temps.
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07-19-2009, 10:15 AM #8
exactly the only thing about 160 thermo keeps ur car cool at high speeds(45 miles and up) when is more air flowin trhu the radiator but at regular iddle keeps the engine at normal temp 210f also helps prevent detonation, if u want to run ur car no more then 160degrees?? i recommend a electric water pump but no good idea for the winter wich u proly don't drive it anyway make sure to calibrate ur radi, get all the air out..
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07-19-2009, 01:17 PM #9
There are certainly tuners in your area, look through the list of sponsors etc.
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07-19-2009, 02:47 PM #10
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07-19-2009, 05:31 PM #11
Detonation -- otherwise known as spark knock -- is the result of pre-ignition in the combustion chamber. This means the piston is still trying to come up in the bore when the mixture lights off pre-maturely and causes the rattle you hear.
Detonation is bad for an engine. An LS1, and most other modern engines, have knock sensors that pull timing to protect the engine. It can be caused by the use of low octane fuel, improper timing, and carboned up combustion chambers to name a few.
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07-19-2009, 07:02 PM #12
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07-19-2009, 07:15 PM #13
you have a few options as far as tuning. I'm sure you have someone semi-local or local to you that tunes. A handheld tuner is also an option. I would recommend a mail order tune from Frost as he does a lot of them and people are extremely happy with their tunes afterwards. I think he's still only charging $125 for a tune which is a good deal. Do you have any other mods planned for the near future? If so it might be best to wait until you have them done and then get the tune.
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07-20-2009, 07:20 AM #14
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
You need a accurate way to read the temp. first because the gage will not show you the change because it's dumbed down to not show much movement. If you are overheating you have a fan issue not turning on, my 00'
SS reads about 177 on a scanner while driving with my 160 installed so it will operate 10-15 cooler but my gage looks the same and I have not programmed any fan changes yet.
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07-20-2009, 08:34 AM #15
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07-20-2009, 08:42 AM #16
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
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PEWTER- 2000 CAMARO SS #3821
Yes, the original stat/housing design for the 160 can never really run that low, about 175-180 while moving is as good as it gets for all brands. That is why there is no worry about using a 160, it is really a 177 and resetting the fans program is the only way to control the temp. when not moving (or the manual switch).
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07-20-2009, 07:01 PM #17
http://www.jegs.com/i/Meziere/680/WP119S/10002/-1
they not cheap tho but they do the job...
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