Clutch Bleed Screwed Up!

**camaroluvr447** · 06-20-2011, 03:53 PM

So clutch was getting squishy and I thought i would bleed it. I had my brother depress the clutch and I opened the bleeder valve. A dribble of fluid came out, and I tightened it, and he released the pedal. Except the pedal did not come back up. There is zero resistance when I work the pedal with my hand. I followed the same procedure I do when bleeding brakes. There was fluid in the reservoir, and the cap was off. Any ideas?? Thanks!

***SMWS6TA*** · 06-20-2011, 04:43 PM

sounds like your master has just

**tatertot91** · 06-20-2011, 04:47 PM

thats odd, did any air get in?
these cars can be the biggest pain to bleed, have you looked into the mity vac method?
also would recommend the drill mod as well and definitely changing the fluid if you haven't

***SMWS6TA*** · 06-20-2011, 04:50 PM

Tater, pain to bleed would not be in the same realm in my book to describe it

Also, OP, I forgot to add that when I did a slave/master change it took me almost 2 hrs to getting it firm without the mity vac.

**tatertot91** · 06-20-2011, 04:57 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Tater, pain to bleed would not be in the same realm in my book to describe it

seems you have you fair share of experience in that area as well then

**az gt eater** · 06-20-2011, 05:58 PM

That's the recipe for disaster. Stiff clutch, factory master. Forget the tick remote bleeder, get a Mity Vac.

**Cutlass** · 06-20-2011, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by camaroluvr447

So clutch was getting squishy and I thought i would bleed it. I had my brother depress the clutch and I opened the bleeder valve. A dribble of fluid came out, and I tightened it, and he released the pedal. Except the pedal did not come back up. There is zero resistance when I work the pedal with my hand. I followed the same procedure I do when bleeding brakes. There was fluid in the reservoir, and the cap was off. Any ideas?? Thanks!

That's normal for the pedal to not come back up on its own. It's not gonna bled the same way brakes do. Not sure why, but thats been my experience. The best/recommended way to bled air out is using the Mity Vac method.

**camaroluvr447** · 06-21-2011, 03:20 PM

hey i found that the rubber line form the resivoir had become disconeccted on the clutch master cylinder. That was a bitch to change, I had to remove the brake master cylinder, brake booster, partes of the interior, wiring harness, brake and clutch pedals, just to be able to access the nipple to re-attach the hose. Then the clutch still wouldnt bleed. So I had enough and I am buying a mity vac tonight. Will update on that when it comes in. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHGHHHH! I just wanna drive my car! the weather is too nice!

***SMWS6TA*** · 06-21-2011, 03:22 PM

did you zip tie the hose? If not it will come off.

**oldmano2z** · 06-21-2011, 06:54 PM

i did the monster clutch with the tick master,and their speed bleeder and had no problems. but i did a t6spd conversion and dont know what a stock system is like, sounds like a pain . i ran the speed bleeder line along the fuel line heat shields and exited just under the drivers door,dipped thespeed bleeder in a measuring cup full of dot 4 and bled it by myself with no problem. then i tucked the end of the bleeder into some holes in the frame nearby. easy to do . the reason the pedal sticks to floor is the spring cantilevers over monster clutch does away with the spring and relies on preasure plate spring as a return. thusfar i have had no problems and clutch is great speed shift to 2nd and break 275's loose at 80mph!!