clutch adjustment

**Resinblast** · 09-13-2014, 01:10 PM

How do you adjust your clutch on a 2000 ss camaro

**az gt eater** · 09-13-2014, 04:27 PM

No adjustment is possible.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-13-2014, 05:12 PM

What's the issue?

**Resinblast** · 09-13-2014, 05:14 PM

clutch peddle not coming back up on high rpm shifts....

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-13-2014, 05:15 PM

Have you checked the clutch fluid level or ever changed it? Any leaks?

**Resinblast** · 09-13-2014, 05:23 PM

There's no full line on there where is it?

**az gt eater** · 09-13-2014, 05:37 PM

Almost to the top. It takes brake fluid. Changing the fluid often helps. The problem is that theclutch master cylinder is very small, and weak. The line running from the reservoir has a restriction in it as well from the factory. GM's thinking was that by restricting the line, they would raise pressure. Also, the clutch lines run really close to the headers/exhaust system. That heats the fluid up. All combined, you get the sticky pedal syndrome. I changed my clutch master cylinder out, and change the fluid often. No more problems.

**Resinblast** · 09-13-2014, 05:40 PM

So the drill out mod or new Mc is only way to get the sticky peddle to stop? damn this sucks lol I gotta get this fixed ASAP so annoying

**az gt eater** · 09-14-2014, 06:29 AM

You can try changing the fluid out, but I don't think it is going to help you much. Sorry bud. One thing to remember is that you don't need a speed bleeder. You can get a Mity Vac. That works like a charm. Also, you will have the tool to bleed brakes as well. The Mity Vac is a really awesome tool....

**az gt eater** · 09-14-2014, 06:30 AM

And, once you see the cheap plastic toy that GM calls a clutch master cylinder, you will prob throw up...

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-15-2014, 06:04 AM

so how many miles on the clutch? slave cylinder?

It could be it's just time to replace them. Stock clutch usually last about 75,000 miles. Heavy use (track, burn outs etc, you know the fun stuff) = less.

If it only happens with rapid high rpm shift then most likely it's the mc needing the drill mod.

**Resinblast** · 09-15-2014, 08:04 AM

Where is the drain plug for the clutch fluid and what color should it be?

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-15-2014, 08:23 AM

The color should be reddish, black or dark brown = needs flushing.

You will need to bleed the system. How to do that requires 2-3 ppl. It is a major PITA with 2.

One on the pedal
One watching and filling the fluid so there's no air in the system
One underneath the car to open/close the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder.

IIRC it's a 10 mm wrench you'll need, maybe a 12mm. Have a clear bottle and some clear tubing from the bleeder nut to the bottle. Guy on bottom opens the bleeder nut then the pedal guy pushes and holds. Fluid drains out and then the bottom guy closes the nut, fluid guy fills the reservoir and then the pedal person releases the pedal. REPEAT several times till clean new fluid starts flowing into the bottle.

**Resinblast** · 09-15-2014, 09:28 AM

Thanks for the info guys

**az gt eater** · 09-15-2014, 04:21 PM

Here's how to bleed a clutch with the Mity Vac. Assemble Mity Vac with the stepped nozzle. Fill clutch fluid reservoir with brake fluid. Insert nozzle of Mity Vac into bottom of clutch fluid reservoir and pump 5-7 times. Due to suction, MtyVac should stay stuck to the cltch fld resrvr. If not, confirm that you are in the BOTTOM of the cltch fld resrvr. There is a hole that this nozzle fits into. Then , pump it again 5-7 times. If you go overboard on pumping it, you risk pulling the o-rings out of the system. Once you have positive suction on the Mty Vac, then you will proceed to pump the cltch pedal a few times BY HAND. YOu will need to pull it back up. While you are doing this, you should see air bubbles coming up through the clear line on the My Vc. So, you have pumped it a few times. Now, you will go under the hood, and pull the Mty Vc after releasing the pressure by depressing the plunger on the back side. Fill the cltch fld resrvr back up with fluid and repeat. Apply vacuum, work the pedal by hand, and then release. Fill up cltch fld resrvr. Pretty soon, ( 5 minutes or less) you will be able to use your foot. Bleed it until you have built up enough pressure to feel steady, solid resistance. All done. No helper, nor expensive speed bleeder needed. This procedure is called for after a clutch, slave, or master replacement. You can call up a friend, (or two), jack the car up on stands, have everyone choreographed on the dance, and bleed it with wrenches the traditional way, or just buy a Mity Vac. No brainer to me. Honestly, some mechanics can't get the system bled the traditional way as much as they want, and end up doing this method in the end anyways.

Here is the Ranger method. This may get you by for a while for the cost of some brake fluid and the Mity Vac. The ranger method is when you are simply REPLACING old fluid. You will not get ALL of the fluid replaced, but you will get a very large portion. You can use a turkey baster if money IS an option. You will suck almost all of the fluid out of the cltch fld resrvr with either a turkey baster, or the Mty Vc. Either tool you use, you are NOT looking to insert it into the hole in the very bottom of the cltch fld rsrvr, only sucking off the top. Then, add new fluid. Pump the living daylights out of the clutch and then, suck and replace again. Repeat until you see that the color of the fluid has changed to match the color of the new fluid, then do it some more.

Remember, the car is NOT running for any of the above operations.

I cannot stress this enough, the Mity Vac is a very useful tool to have. It will bleed both the clutch and brake systems. It is what the pros rely on to make customers happy. It is not expensive, but it works better than having a pro sitting next to you.( Or under you with a 10, or 12 mm wrench, I honestly don't know what size it is, and don't plan on finding out!!)

A couple notes on brake fluid. It is extremely corrosive. You will want to protect paint and plastic from it. That means that the plastic tray that the Mity Vac comes with is not going to last long if you store it with fluid stuck in the tool. Pretty much un avoidable, so I use a PVC serving bowl to keep it in. That is what the tool is made out of, PVC, poly vinyl chloride. It WILL eat paint, and the floor coating in your garage if left for a decent period of time. Brake fluid also has the curios property of absorbing water in the air, ie, humidity. Therefore, you will want to get brand new, sealed brake fluid to add to your systems, and not leave the caps off of your reservoirs for long periods of time, like overnight. Never use old brake fluid.
Good luck, and if you need help with changing your slave, or clutch master, send me a PM.

**dabest09** · 09-15-2014, 08:54 PM

Which mity vac are you guys using?

**az gt eater** · 09-16-2014, 05:51 PM

MV 8020 here is a link. Good question, BTW http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/MV8020.jpg

**dabest09** · 09-17-2014, 07:00 AM

Would it be easier to install a tick speed bleeder? It's about the same price.

**az gt eater** · 09-17-2014, 06:56 PM

No. And, the speed bleeder won't bleed your brakes, either. And, the speed bleeder won't work on your buddy's clutch or brakes. Or, the next car you get.

**dabest09** · 09-17-2014, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by az gt eater

No. And, the speed bleeder won't bleed your brakes, either. And, the speed bleeder won't work on your buddy's clutch or brakes. Or, the next car you get.

But I won't have to crawl under the car every time I change clutch fluid, which is often. Bleeding brakes isn't hard and it's not something that needs to be done as often as clutch fluid. Don't really care about my buddies cars haha.

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