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  1. #1
    Junior Member DMAN's Avatar
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    Car won't start after warm.

    Sorry if this is long but I did some searching and found it could be a few things so i figured i would see if anyone had any opinions. I have an 01 z28 M6 with a little over 100,000 miles. it's mostly stock but i put some long tubes and 3in true duals and removed the A.I.R. a couple months back. it was running great until the other day i drove it to the bank and when i went to start it up it just made the clicking noise and the clock reset. i thought it may be the battery but it wouldn't start w a jump. i ended up pushing it down a hill and dumping the clutch in first and it started until i let off the gas then it spuddered and died. the next day it started right up so i drove it for about 10 min. turned it off and tried to restart it and sure enough it just clicked. I was told it could be starter heat soak cause my starter touches my headers but would that effect it needing the throttle pushed down that first day to run? Any thoughts would be great i don't want to buy parts i don't need.
    Last edited by DMAN; 06-29-2010 at 06:08 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    If it just made clicking noises and the clock reset, sure sounds like a bad battery/connection somewhere. If the clock resets while attempting a crank, that is usually a bad battery or bad connection at the battery. First thing to do is take the connections off the battery and look for corrosion, and clean any you find. You can use baking soda with water if there is any, or you can buy some stuff at the store.

    The sputtering and dieing is more clue that it's a battery/connection issue, since if you lose the battery connection, the PCM forgets how to idle for a few miles, causing the sputtering/stall condition.

    As for the header tube touching the starter, that will fry the starter before too long, but won't give you the clock reset issue. Could be more than one thing.

  3. #3
    Junior Member DMAN's Avatar
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    I figured i would start w the battery cause its probably the cheapest. As far as the starter i probably need to get a heat shield or even a mini starter so they aren't touching. thanks for the info i'm going to try to figure it out this weekend.

  4. #4
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    Maybe a melted wire between the starter and battery from header contact?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    If it just made clicking noises and the clock reset, sure sounds like a bad battery/connection somewhere. If the clock resets while attempting a crank, that is usually a bad battery or bad connection at the battery. First thing to do is take the connections off the battery and look for corrosion, and clean any you find. You can use baking soda with water if there is any, or you can buy some stuff at the store.

    The sputtering and dieing is more clue that it's a battery/connection issue, since if you lose the battery connection, the PCM forgets how to idle for a few miles, causing the sputtering/stall condition.

    As for the header tube touching the starter, that will fry the starter before too long, but won't give you the clock reset issue. Could be more than one thing.
    Dead on! I agree 100%

  6. #6
    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Agree. Step number one in this type of situation is to disconnect and clean both battery terminals and disconnect and clean the ground at the fender. Often the probelm is identified with just those simple steps.

  7. #7
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    What about the dreaded Delco battery negative terminal curse? When the negative terminal sleeve falls out?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    ^^^absolutlely. Falls under post #2, it would be found while looking at the connections. Usually you will get the nasty stank smell when you get near the battery, since the thing is venting there.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMAN View Post
    I figured i would start w the battery cause its probably the cheapest. As far as the starter i probably need to get a heat shield or even a mini starter so they aren't touching. thanks for the info i'm going to try to figure it out this weekend.
    Reminds me to get a mini starter for my 1968 Le Mans ragtop. I just switched engines/added headers and the cheap headers are 1/16" away from my starter. I did put a heat shield there, but it is now touching and I'm beginning to get heat soak issues with that starter already.

  10. #10
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Check the wires, i mean feel them and bend them a bit. if you feel a hard spot you might have corrosion inside the wire insulation and it looks perfectly fine from the outside.

  11. #11
    Junior Member DMAN's Avatar
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    Had some free time this morning and cleaned the connections then tested the battery at orielly's sure enough the battery was bad. so i bought a new one and it started up better then it ever has! thanks for all the help everyone after driving my xterra the last couple of weeks i forgot how fast and loud my car is, at least compared to the xterra

  12. #12
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Glad to hear it is another relatively simple fix for the F-body.

    And I know damn well what you say about driving something else for a while, then jumping back in on the LS1. We have a Cherokee that I drive from time to time, and when I get back in Too Fast she feels faster than ever again.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMAN View Post
    Had some free time this morning and cleaned the connections then tested the battery at orielly's sure enough the battery was bad. so i bought a new one and it started up better then it ever has! thanks for all the help everyone after driving my xterra the last couple of weeks i forgot how fast and loud my car is, at least compared to the xterra

  13. #13
    11 years of bangin gears cammed goat's Avatar
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    Enjoy.

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