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  1. #1
    SuperSport SSPORT's Avatar
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    Question Can you turn Powerslot brake rotors?

    Does anyone here know if you can turn a Powerslot (or any other) slotted -- or cross-drilled -- rotor? I've always just bought new rotors, but I'm looking at replacing my pads, and my Powerslots have concentric ridging on all 4 rotors, which you can both see and feel if you run your fingertip across the surface. So I need to fix that.

    It occurs to me that it would be cheaper to turn them rather than replace them, but I'm not sure if slotted rotors can be turned: that is, do the gas-relief slots get in the way of the cutting tool?

    Any expert help on this would be appreciated; I'd love to know my options here. Thanks guys!

  2. #2
    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    I haven't done it , but have been turning regular rotors for decades. I can't see any reason why the lathe would have any problem with this. You need to turn it with a 'hubless' rotor adapter and some kind of anti-chatter device hooked up, just like every modern vehicle. Just make sure you take it to an experienced shop or guy because of the cost factor-if they get screwed up it'll be expensive compared to most rotors to replace.

  3. #3
    SuperSport SSPORT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02z28ls1 View Post
    I haven't done it , but have been turning regular rotors for decades. I can't see any reason why the lathe would have any problem with this. You need to turn it with a 'hubless' rotor adapter and some kind of anti-chatter device hooked up, just like every modern vehicle. Just make sure you take it to an experienced shop or guy because of the cost factor-if they get screwed up it'll be expensive compared to most rotors to replace.

    Thanks, wanted to make sure there was no technical reason these slotted rotors couldn't be put on a brake lathe. I think I'd rather put my money into other repairs (such as a better clutch and aluminium flywheel) than new rotors if these can be made shiny and true again. I'm wondering if the Hawk HPS semi-metallic pads I've had on these since they were new (44K miles ago) could have caused the ridging....

  4. #4
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    No. I have yet to see any shop succesfully turn slotted/drilled rotors....chatter like hell and break the tool.....now maybe you can pay a machine shop with a lathe....but the cost would exceed new rotors....

  5. #5
    txcosmos
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    I have been told by several people (shops) that they can do it, but I haven't done it yet. I'd like to know how it comes out, sine I should be due pretty soon.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    No. I have yet to see any shop succesfully turn slotted/drilled rotors....chatter like hell and break the tool.....now maybe you can pay a machine shop with a lathe....but the cost would exceed new rotors....

    don't know what they would be doing wrong other than having a dull cutting blade. turned mine on my cars without any problems. nothing special is needed. that thing us shops use is called a brake lathe.
    Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers

  7. #7
    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    True-all shops have a lathe for brakes-with a little ingenuity it can be used for other purposes also. The thing that causes the problems is not using the latest 'hubless rotor' adapters. The rotor needs to be supported in the middle as close to the outer diameter of the hub part as possible. Lathes will have no problem with slots or holes drilled in the surface, they will simply skip over this part and continue cutting when it hits steel again.Getting a smooth chatter free 'turning' requires the bits be sharp and the final cut being as slow as possible. Using a rubber dampener around the outer edge will help greatly. My shop recently invested $800 in hubless rotor adapters for our Ammco lathe-the mass of the adapters also helps reduce chatter.
    All rotors will wear as they are used-the pads will wear quicker of course, but some modern day cars are engineered to wear out the rotors at the same time as the pads. They're made out of a 'softer' cast iron to reduce noise issues due to customer complaints.

  8. #8
    SuperSport SSPORT's Avatar
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    All helpful, guys. I will let everyone know how it turns out.
    Thanks!
    (Was "Bolide," member since 5/2000). 2000 Camaro SS, M6. SLP Level 1 susp, SFCs + STB, cold air kit, 1.85-1 rockers, Race LCAs + Panhard, Richmond 3.73 gears, B&M Ripper, Shaner S2, MAF ends, Hypertech etc. 328 rwhp (stock tuning)

  9. #9
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    I had my old cross drilled rotors turned many of times with no problems

  10. #10
    Junior Member WS.SICK's Avatar
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    WHat the heck did you do to your camaro?! that looks crazy... you probably autocross huh? very interesting

  11. #11
    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    looks like a spitfire fighter plane front end-cool for parades!

  12. #12
    SuperSport SSPORT's Avatar
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    The shark mouth was an insert I made for a Halloween-themed car show in Burlington, Mass. I painted the name "CAR-NIVOROUS" on the windshield header, too. Combined with the bloodshot eyeballs over the headlights, it was pretty cool coming up behind someone on the road (I drove it that way to the show, was only 10 miles away). Too bad it was all made from construction paper and wouldn't last more than a day or two...
    And yes, the car does get autocrossed!

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