Block Questions

**Capster78** · 01-28-2006, 05:51 PM

Im currently looking into supercharging my TA. Iv done some research and have found that the 98 blocks are weaker than the mid 99+ blocks. The blocks themsleves have reliability issues past 550hp. I hope to be around or slightly above this eventually. I like to mod ahead of time instead of having to go back and do things over (wasting money). I have been looking at Cast Iron blocks but there are so many out there and I dont know which ones would be best to work with for a supercharger. That and I see alot of people are having problems with some of these aftermarket companies coming thru or the quality of their products not being up to par.

Any suggestions on a good company to go with or what kind of crate engines I should take a look at.

**Capster78** · 01-28-2006, 08:22 PM

anyone, camon I know this board has not lost all its technical guru's.

**TommySS** · 01-29-2006, 04:26 AM

Get a block girdle

**Blitzed** · 01-29-2006, 04:29 AM

get an older 6.0 iron truck block, I think the ones are aluminum. I've seen the 6.0 truck blocks handle 800-900 hp.

**Sarge** · 01-29-2006, 06:29 AM

Stay away from SLP.
With that said...there are many great companies build you a iron block 402/408/427 for under $4K......search around with our sponsors....research...ask for references...goggle the company.....ask for the warranty in writing....dont settle for what is posted on the INTERNET as that can change in a flash....I am having my 402 custom built...choosing the parts individually.....more time consuming....but what a dependable beast we end up with.....and yes for a tad over $4K I get the components I wanted versus a "package" deal.....

**AF1Bird** · 02-06-2006, 01:12 PM

I worried about the same thing. I am building an LQ4 Iron Block. I have a D1SC Procharger with a 15lb. set up. Everyone recommended this block due to its strength. You can get one from gmpartsdirect brand new for around $600.00. The part number is:12551366. Good luck.

**Capster78** · 02-06-2006, 04:01 PM

Iv been looking into some of the 402's I have found. Im gana have to dig a little deeper and find out whats best..

**AF1Bird** · 02-07-2006, 12:07 PM

Good luck. The 6.0 block could be made to a 402, 408, 414, etc.

**Liquifire** · 02-08-2006, 12:44 AM

If you don't mind staying at the stock cubes, then check out the engine girdle available. I have seen them and they used it on a high HP vehicle at Exotic Performance Plus on a TA. Look at the featured cars section. It has pics and explanations...........see what you think. Otherwise you will take the weight hit of the iron block, but in the end it is your decision.

**Capster78** · 02-09-2006, 05:20 PM

Ill read into it.. I have just learned thru the expirience of others that shortcuts just delay the inevitable. Sure, it will hold up.. but for how long. And why risk it when you could do it the right way.

**jrp** · 02-09-2006, 10:43 PM

there is nothing wrong with the stock block. concentrate on your fuel and tuning systems. detonation is whats going to kill you. plus dont forget about the extra 80+ lbs that the iron block adds over the aluminum.

**Capster78** · 02-10-2006, 02:41 PM

There isent anything wrong, yoru right.. Untill you reach that threashold of around 550hp..

**Sarge** · 02-10-2006, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by Capster78

Ill read into it.. I have just learned thru the expirience of others that shortcuts just delay the inevitable. Sure, it will hold up.. but for how long. And why risk it when you could do it the right way.

Yup...for how long is right...hello 402 iron block....FOR SALE LS1 Stock Block...small ventilation modification completed....

**Capster78** · 02-10-2006, 03:05 PM

Im definatly going with an Iron block. Im not going to spend an ass ton of money just to blow it up on stupidity and being a cheap ass.

**jrp** · 02-10-2006, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by Capster78

There isent anything wrong, yoru right.. Untill you reach that threashold of around 550hp..

i work with blocks for a living, an iron block while stronger then the aluminum is not fail safe. a rod will go through an iron block just as easily as it will Al. there is not static calculation of 550hp for block catastrophy. like i said, a proper fuel system and tune is what you need.

**Liquifire** · 02-10-2006, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by jrp

i work with blocks for a living, an iron block while stronger then the aluminum is not fail safe. a rod will go through an iron block just as easily as it will Al. there is not static calculation of 550hp for block catastrophy. like i said, a proper fuel system and tune is what you need.

so are you saying sarge didn't have a proper tune and/or the proper fuel system?

**TommySS** · 02-11-2006, 04:29 AM

Originally Posted by Sarge

Yup...for how long is right...hello 402 iron block....FOR SALE LS1 Stock Block...small ventilation modification completed....

Did you have a block girdle?

**Sarge** · 02-11-2006, 04:32 AM

No....

**Sarge** · 02-11-2006, 04:44 AM

Originally Posted by Liquifire

so are you saying sarge didn't have a proper tune and/or the proper fuel system?

Anything is possible but for the record.....I have a Kenne Bell BaP...we monitor the FP real time in the car....the AF is also monitored and we tuned it on a Mustang dyno ...AF was 11's throughout the rpm band....
now with that all said...I now doubt the Mustang Dyno we tuned it on....as we took the blown motor apart...there were two obvious things.....1. The valves had been slapping the pistons on the drivers side banks for awhile...looks like valve clearance was an issue at the last head install....2. there were signs of running lean on the drivers side cylinders.....
So....with this new motor..said goodbye...and fuck you very very much.... to the previous shop and changed shops/dyno's and tuners.....also changed AF gauges to a much more accurate wideband that we monitor from the a-pillar....I guarantee we will have proper valve clearance this go around.....
with all that said....I think the valves and the AF were off a tad...not much...and probably contributed to the early demise of the motor...but the main factor was a stock bottom end and a shitload of power caused a rod bolt to break and kaboom...
With the new motor we are also installing a Walbro pump and the bucket mod along with the BaP.....not that we had any issues before...but now we will be putting down even more power and $300 bucks is cheap when you look at the big picture...so yes...I think the AF and head install of the previous motor was out of whack a little and contributed somewhat to the death of that motor.....we wont make those mistakes with this one I assure you...