Alarm partially still delaying start. Ideas please>

[thomasterrible]

I had a sudden and dramatic problem of my car not starting after never having an issue and just gassing up. The key did nothing.

I guessed that the ignition lock cylinder resistance reader had something break after years of use such as a wire so it was not sending the signal with the proper resistance from the ignition key
to the module that reads that and gives the alarm the OK to start normally.

Fortunately I did measure the resistance of the key with my multmeter and purchased a resistor at the electronics store and installed it in the bottom half of the connector that comes down the inside of the steering column.
So 5instantly the car started and all was back to normal for about a dollar in parts. I used shrink tube over the resister install and tape to keep it snug in place.

I then had the unfortunate need to have a new transmission. So I got that built and installed and all was OK except while it is unlikely the transmission work had anything to do with the alarm other than perhaps a wire accidentally moved it began having staring issues after the transmission was installed. Some of the time I was able to disconnect the battery and reconnect it and wait and/or try various turning the key on for periods of time and off and sometimes it started and others it was towed.

Now it continues to be random if it will start with no issue or not. The bulk of the time it will start the first try when I start the car but at any point I stop it is a roll of the dice.
The problem is not nearly as bad as it was as now the security light comes on...sometimes while driving other times just when I go to start the car. But I can just leave the ignition in the on position and wait about 5 minutes or so when the security light will go off and I can then turn the key back and forward to start it.

I just have no idea why it sometimes does this and what that short wait for the security light could be an indication of.

It is nice not to be stranded or towed and 5 minutes is a big improvement but it is obviously not going to be OK with me long term.
The alarm is complex and to the person who deigned it my description likely would get a quick answer. As I don't expect they are watching this thread perhaps someone that has had a similar issue or knows of one can give me some insight in to fixing it knowing what was wrong and fixed to get this far.

I do want to mention that the horn does not sound off. I just let it run for a few minutes one time the car would not start and after it stopped has not gone on again as it used to every time.

Also the key fob does not function. The door locks no longer work and the panic button no longer works. I figured out that pressing it would stop the horn on occasions it would falsely go off but I installed a new good quality battery in the key fob and still no functioning of the door locks which would be nice to have although I had a second key made so if I forget the main keys in the ignition I could open the door to retrieve them. I had been usually just leaving the door unlocked as that was one more thing that could cause the alarm to not work right. But I would like to fix that as well and have to think it has something with the whole alarm issue as it worked fine before but not at all now.

I absolutely hate the GM VATS alarms as every Corvette or Trans Am I have owned with one has stranded me but never did anything positive. They are very expensive to have diagnosed by a shop and the parts are not cheap either and need programming if a new key is purchased etc.. One can not give a VIN and get a replacement key as many think. You can only buy a new lock cylinder with key and have the system programmed with the new resistor embedded in the key.

Right now it is the automatic locks and the regular issue of the car not starting until I wait for the security light to go off.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Having the doors work and the lock system totally disabled would be fine with me. I would much rather have a car that was reliable to start and they automatic door locks and rear hatch work. I am just fine not having the alarm work if that is an option.

Thanks in advance. It is a confusing puzzle I know.

[sjgreen6]

There is a new solution to get past VATS. I've read about it and heard good things but have not personally tried it. Company is call Newrockies, and they sell a part they call their Pro Module that completely bypasses the GM Passlock system. Cost is around $260 but they claim it fixes issues with the key chip, ignition cylinder, and BCM. Google Newrockies Pro Module.

[thomasterrible]

Thanks a lot! I got it to start for a buck and down to 5 minutes of waiting but thats as far as I can go.

I will check that out. And perhaps it might help the door lock issue.
A diagnosis would cost more than that and then there is the fix.

Sounds like the best use of my cash. A GM class action should be done. I have never checked to see if it is on a recall list. It should be. A very expensive one for GM as many vehicles this was put in.

Thanks again. If it works I think both the resistor fix and that should be permanent stickies
For many the resistor anyone can do in minutes is all they need and the cost so low.

This other thing for stubborn issues is the best I have heard of.
Good timing my bday is tomorrow.

Have a great new year!
TT