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Thread: AC problem
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02-04-2009, 07:02 AM #1
AC problem
AC went out on my '02 Z. Thought I had a leak but tech put gauges on and it has freon, compressor comes on, but not circulating. Guage on low side red lines high. Tech tells me it's the low or high side switch. Where in the heck are those? No way I'm gonna change those out and deal with vacuuming the system etc. What exactly could it be and how much you think to fix?
Thanks
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02-04-2009, 04:13 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Quinlan
- Posts
- 25
red- 94 Z28 camaro
A/C eliminator if you take out all your ac stuff you lose close to 100lbs the more weight you lose the faster you go i did mine and it helped but wouldnt do it if you dont have T-tops cause you will die in the summer
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02-06-2009, 05:12 PM #3
There is no high and low switch. There is one pressure switch and it's usually in the accumulator.{dryer} I doubt it is that though because if it was bad it would not engage the compressor or it would run and never kick off.{but would at least blow cold} What was the high side reading?If the low side is high it could be low freon, a restriction, or an internal compressor problem. The compressors on these car are pieces of shit. When you buy a 4th gen they should throw an extra compressor in the trunk for ya.
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02-06-2009, 05:42 PM #4
The low side pressure, which the valve is on the canister, went all the way to 100 psi. The tube was getting hot too so ya it looked like a restriction. But dang, how do you diagnose where the restriction is? Is it looking like the whole thing needs taken apart?
I live in Texas, so "ac elimination" is NOT an option lol.
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02-06-2009, 08:39 PM #5
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02-08-2009, 03:15 AM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
That tech is a piece of shit idiot. 100 psi doesn't necessarily mean there is a restriction. But if both the high and low sides are 100 psi with the compressor clutch engaged then the compressor isn't compressing and its internally shot. When that happens it sends metal throughout the system. It all ends up clogging up the orfice tube, which should be replaced along with the compressor. The system will need to be flushed and back flushed and/or have an in-line filter installed in order to protect the new compressor from injesting metal and tearing itself up again. There are components like the accumulator that are impossible to get the metal out of and should also be considered for replacement.
Basiclly its a huge mess.
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02-08-2009, 05:41 AM #7
What do you think the cost of all that might be on average?
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02-08-2009, 10:24 AM #8
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
certainly over $1000. You can save cash if you get a used compressor and do all or most of the labor. The only thing you can't do, unless you're a certified AC tech (laws vary state to state, I believe) is recover and recharge the system and possiblly flush the system (due to lack of proper tools/flush equipment). But if you have a shop recover the freon, then you take it home and replace the compressor, orfice tube, accumulator, and install a filter, you can save money. Then have a shop recharge it. Most likely the filter will clog up with metal and you'll have to have them replaced again.
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02-08-2009, 12:34 PM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, FL
- Age
- 75
- Posts
- 2,706
Sebring Silver- 2000 CamaroSS
Compressor will run you between $350 - $480 depending on where you get it.
Orifice tube is about $3.....accumulator is about $60.....$5 for the "O"-Rings.
Auto Zone has vacuum equipment you can use free if you buy something from them like the refrigerant & compressor oil.....you could take it to an AC shop for the flush, bring it home & pull the vaccum.
Might get away with $700 on the high end even if you were charged $100 for the flush.
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