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Thread: about dialectric grease.....
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03-12-2009, 05:36 AM #1
about dialectric grease.....
I just bought some msd wires for my trans am. someone said that i should use dialectric grease? any truth to this and where to i put the grease on the actual wires?
2000 Arctic White trans am, ws6 hood, ws6 air box, slp lid, slp smooth bellows, slp loudmouth exhaust,shift kit, rebuilt trans, LS6 intake, 3.73 gears, Shaner S3 p/p throttle body, and a tune . SFC. C6 ZO6 rims 18" in back 17" in front. Drilled and slotted rotors.
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03-12-2009, 06:27 AM #2
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red with black stripes- 2002 Trans Am WS6
you normally put the grease on the connectors where the metal on the plug and coil touch the wire.
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03-12-2009, 10:17 AM #3
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03-12-2009, 10:25 AM #4
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red with black stripes- 2002 Trans Am WS6
it is normally already in the wire ends.
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03-12-2009, 10:26 AM #5
I did. It makes taking them off easier in the future plus keeps moisture out.
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03-12-2009, 10:55 AM #6
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03-12-2009, 11:28 AM #7
Good info... getting ready to tackle that one myself. I lost count though in the above thread... How many times am I supposed to blow Sarge during a plug change? Just want to make sure I do the job right!
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03-12-2009, 11:31 AM #8
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black- 02 vette vert
that was a great write up sarge, i wish everyone would follow that info. just did plugs and wires on my 98 z28 that i just bought and getting the old boots off and breaking the plugs loose was the worst part! naturally #8 was stuck on the hardest. i usually squirt a glob of dielectric grease inside the boots and smear it around with a q-tip, saves a little mess in handling the plugs[not to mention inside the socket]. and make sure you use the copper anti-sieze like is shown cuz it is a better conductor than the regular stuff, remember the plug is grounded thru its body to the head.
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03-12-2009, 12:37 PM #9
A little confused by the write up, but do you just put it in the inside of the boot on both ends or just on the metal part both ends?
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03-12-2009, 12:52 PM #10
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Sebring Silver- 2000 CamaroSS
inside boot
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03-12-2009, 12:56 PM #11
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black- 02 vette vert
its the rubber that sticks to the body of the plug so you want it around the inside of the boots. the connector is basically just a spring clip, no problems. doesnt hurt to do both ends of the wire either, just helps with sealing out moisture too.
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03-13-2009, 12:41 AM #12
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Arctic White- 1999 WS.6 Trans Am
just don't do this....
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...well-sort.html
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03-13-2009, 02:50 AM #13
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Sebring Silver- 2000 CamaroSS
Perfect illustration as to why it's important to use anti-sieze on the threads!
Aluminum + contact with steel = perfect condition for gallingLast edited by rbob93; 03-13-2009 at 02:52 AM.
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03-13-2009, 06:38 AM #14
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black- 02 vette vert
you should also find whoever told you to get the engine good and hot and smack them,HARD! all that did was make that aluminum head and that plug base clamp together like they were one piece.
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03-13-2009, 07:06 AM #15
Already did the plugs, and added some antiseize.....now going to do the wires today so i will let everyone know how it goes......chris
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03-13-2009, 08:21 AM #16
Been their done that. The first time I changed the plugs on my Z #8 broke off. Boy was I pissed. I pulled everything apart by myself and reading posts on here. Thank God my uncle helped me put it back together. He is a ASE cert. GM mechanic. Also When I put the new plugs in I used antiseize. Make the jod easyer next time.
My Garage http://www.fquick.com/anhalt07
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03-16-2009, 10:45 PM #17
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