100,000 Mile Service

**bmcclint** · 10-15-2007, 06:43 AM

Well it's that time. I crossed the 100,000 mile mark this year and I need to do some work of my 98 Camaro Z28. I've been pretty good about regular 3000~ changes but the time has come to really give her some tender loving care. Hope I'm not too late but it should never be too late to start.

I'm looking for advice from the forum on what to change/service to keep her running another 100,000 miles and hopefully get back some of the punch it used to have. I've done one minor change, K&N filter, and one moderate change a CAT back system from Borla.

OK...What I have is a 98 Z28 w/ LS1 & 6 Speed Manual. I'm assuming what I need to service is...Rear Diff, Transmission, Engine Fluids (Coolant/Power Steering), Plug/Wires aside from the usuals like cleaning K&N and oil/filter change.

Anyone have any advice on what to put in as far a fluids are concerned and anything else I need to change. Is the timing chain/belt something I need to consider? Would anyone recomment changing the engine belt also?

I figure I have most of the winter to get these issues resolved...

Any insight is greatly appreciated...

Few things I've gotten from the forumns so far...I'll keep reading...

Plugs...Go with the original AC Delco Irridium
Diff...Torco RGO w/ F friction modifier

Thank in advance to all...

**patriot1136** · 10-15-2007, 10:02 AM

Definitely change the Rear Diff, Transmission, Engine Fluids (Coolant/Power Steering), Plug/Wires aside from the usuals like cleaning K&N and oil/filter change. Also get a new fuel filter and check your belts.

**b.lee** · 10-15-2007, 10:26 AM

don't forget to double check and make sure the muffler bearings are still in good shape.
without those, the engine could run too lean and seize up.

**samson_420** · 10-15-2007, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by b.lee

don't forget to double check and make sure the muffler bearings are still in good shape.
without those, the engine could run too lean and seize up.

Also the blinker fluid gets cold in the winter time.

**0rion** · 10-15-2007, 09:38 PM

if it's a liquid, filter, or belt......change it. Plugs is a personal preference but my preference is NGK TR55's. I also run MSD wires which is also just a preference.
I would invest in a can of MAF cleaner and clean your MAF too since you're running a K&N. Use either MAF specific stuff ( available at a parts store) or a non-residue electrical cleaner like you can get at Radio Shack. When you re-oil your K&N use the oil sparingly and let the filter sit a while so you don't just sling oil back onto the MAF.

**ATCharming** · 10-15-2007, 09:48 PM

how are your ttops? leak at all? dont want them to get dry or cracked, so lubricate them.

pcv valve, uhh... ill think of some mroe stuff but you got a pretty good list there

just dont forget the simple stuff like rotating tires, changin oil, changin plugs and wires, changin oil and air filters, changin fuel filter, etc.

some things to check but may not need replacin: egr, wheel bearings, brake pads, maybe resurface your rotors and make sure caliper pins are lubricated and not rusty or your brakes will lock up.

thats all thats at the top of my head right now.

**bmcclint** · 10-16-2007, 10:22 AM

I appreciate the positive replys and the others...yeah I'll change the tire fluids also just incase.

Basically, and I guess I should have stated this better, I'm trying to determine what GM recommends for the 100K service and do that myself. The question I still don't know the answer to is the timing chain/belt. Older chevys used chains but it seems a recent trend has been belts which are rather disheartening. Don't want the belt to break at 5K RPM and ruin my day.

To the serious replys thanks, to the smarties out there...

**Firebirdjones** · 10-16-2007, 10:38 AM

At 100,000 miles I would also look at all the hoses and replace them as well. Belts were already mentioned and a good idea as well,,,,as belts and hoses will leave you stuck on the side of the road with no warnings.

One thing I like to replace is 02 sensors. If they are original, pull them out and have a look. After 100,000 miles I would say it's time. I like to change mine around 60,000. Having a scan tool would help here, to make sure the 02's are still healthy. A slow switching 02 is a lazy 02 and affects gas mileage and driveability, something to consider with all those miles. 02's are considered maintainance too.

Fuel filter is another that is often forgotten. Check the fuel pressure and make sure the pump is up to the task. After 100,000 I start sweating about these electric pumps. I generally change them before they go out, just preventative maintainance and piece of mind for me so I am not stranded (again without warning) but thats up to you.

**z28punk** · 10-17-2007, 08:43 PM

Check the fuel pressure and make sure the pump is up to the task. After 100,000 I start sweating about these electric pumps. I generally change them before they go out, just preventative maintainance and piece of mind for me so I am not stranded (again without warning) but thats up to you.

I agree on all this, but how u supposed to guess when a fuel pump is going out? yea the draw on them goes high, but u should have a drivability concern when that happens.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-18-2007, 04:11 AM

Originally Posted by z28punk

I agree on all this, but how u supposed to guess when a fuel pump is going out? yea the draw on them goes high, but u should have a drivability concern when that happens.

You can't really guess when they go out,,,there are some warning signs but I just don't expect them to last much past 100,000 miles so I change mine reguardless. It may be overkill but hey,,,,,I like to be able to jump in my car without worries and drive accross the country if I want,,,my wife drives them too so I can't have something quitting on me. It's just preventative maintainance for me.

**juiced99ws6** · 10-18-2007, 03:28 PM

Originally Posted by bmcclint

I appreciate the positive replys and the others...yeah I'll change the tire fluids also just incase.

Basically, and I guess I should have stated this better, I'm trying to determine what GM recommends for the 100K service and do that myself. The question I still don't know the answer to is the timing chain/belt. Older chevys used chains but it seems a recent trend has been belts which are rather disheartening. Don't want the belt to break at 5K RPM and ruin my day.

To the serious replys thanks, to the smarties out there...

its a chain. it will stretch over time but its alot of work to replace. if you are going in there just buy a cam as well lol

**z28punk** · 10-18-2007, 07:17 PM

You can't really guess when they go out,,,there are some warning signs but I just don't expect them to last much past 100,000 miles so I change mine reguardless. It may be overkill but hey,,,,,I like to be able to jump in my car without worries and drive accross the country if I want,,,my wife drives them too so I can't have something quitting on me. It's just preventative maintainance for me.

thats what I thought. I'm thinking " was there some super secret test u can do to see it before it goes out?" I must have missed that day in GM training school.lol
hey if u dont mind doing all the work to replace it then im not gonna criticize. people can do what they want with their car as far as tune-ups.

**ATCharming** · 10-18-2007, 07:27 PM

well u know ur fuel pump is going bad when you have 1/4 or less, go hard around a turn and floor it out of the turn. your car will sputter and/or die. then u can start it again and drive normally, buit its annoying as hell

**Firebirdjones** · 10-19-2007, 05:30 AM

Originally Posted by ATCharming

well u know ur fuel pump is going bad when you have 1/4 or less, go hard around a turn and floor it out of the turn. your car will sputter and/or die. then u can start it again and drive normally, buit its annoying as hell

That could be fuel sloshing around and uncovering the pickup.
I never let my car get much below 1/2 tank anyway, as the fuel surounding the pump is what helps cool the pump on these in tank systems,,,very low fuel levels cause the pump to run hotter, not a big deal really as they were designed this way but something to keep in mind.

**Firebirdjones** · 10-19-2007, 05:36 AM

Originally Posted by z28punk

thats what I thought. I'm thinking " was there some super secret test u can do to see it before it goes out?" I must have missed that day in GM training school.lol
hey if u dont mind doing all the work to replace it then im not gonna criticize. people can do what they want with their car as far as tune-ups.

It's not bad on a car lift, can do it in a couple hours. No biggy to me.

If you run a fuel pressure gauge it's a huge tuning tool and can also give you warning signs of fuel system problems.

If you stand on the gas and fuel pressure is dropping it could be a sign of a clogged filter, and/or possibly a weak pump that simply can't keep up with the demands. If you don't have a perminant gauge,,,you can do what I do on customer cars. I have an old PSI gauge for old R12 freon that I sacraficed,,,,with a hose on it about 8 feet long I can install it on the fuel rail or tap into the fuel line on a carbed car and simply run the hose through the cowl and shut the hood,,,,,and duck tape the gauge to the windshield so it is in view and go for a drive.

Running the car through it's paces watching the gauge tells me alot.

**bmcclint** · 11-13-2007, 06:55 AM

Anyone have any ideas on Torco MTF vs. Torco ATF for the MM6 transmission. I purchased the MTF but I'm wondering if I should have gotten the ATF...

Thoughts?