What 1/4 mile can I expect?

**Mookz1** · 08-26-2010, 12:58 PM

Hi all, I just dropped in a 408/6.0L, 2.5 LS6 heads, F.A.S.T. 102mm intake, PTM 102mm throttle body, TPI 100mm MAF, 42 lb injectors, ect. into my 1998 Trans Am WS6.

Have LCA's, panhard bar, 2" relocation brackets, but still on street tires.

I am looking for a rough guess on what I should expect to get out of it in the 1/4 mile. I know there are many variables and I dont have dyno numbers just yet but I have no idea what to expect.

Can anyone venture an educated guess.

Thanks in advace.

**SOMbitch** · 08-26-2010, 06:37 PM

I would guess hi 10's with a low 1.5 60ft but M6 or A4 stall, gear, rear etc.... factors in the equation..... give us more info.....

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-26-2010, 08:20 PM

If M6, on street tires your 60' time will probably kill your final ET.

**0rion** · 08-26-2010, 08:41 PM

moving to the drag racing area

**Z28Thunder** · 08-26-2010, 08:59 PM

Even with a A4 the street tires will kill your ET. As others have asked M6 or A4? That setup has 10's in it but we need more information.

**Mookz1** · 08-27-2010, 01:14 AM

I forgot to say that it is a M6 w/ a textralia clutch........had it for a while so im wondering how its going to hold up.
Plus even if i get slicks im afraid I may blow up the stock rear end.
How worried should I be about that?
With that thought, whats my next move w/ the rear end? I still want it to be day to day driveable but not break on race day.
I do appreciate any thoughts from anyone that knows stuff about this.

**KMdef9** · 08-27-2010, 05:08 AM

My street tires killed me and my 60', and I'm 9X% stock. Yours will probably hurt you the whole way down the track, spinning second for sure and probably 3rd as well.

I wouldn't put DR's on and run it as hard as you can, very good chance that rear will only take a few pounding with that setup.

I'm too chickenshit to put DR's on my stocker, lol.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-27-2010, 07:01 AM

There was someone on this thread that was stalled that cut a 1.6X on street tires. I don't remember who though. Obviously this doesn't apply here if he is a M6 though.

OP - You mentioned "slicks". I would not advise that at all with a stock rear end. I really wouldn't advice drag radials either. I couple good hard launches will put a lot of stress on your stock rear-end and you could be chancing blowing it up.

There are several rear-end options for you. S60, MWC 9", Moser 9", Strange 12 bolt, etc. Many will say that a 9" is the way to go since you are a manual.

There is going to be a group purchase for the MWC 9" within the next 6 months I believe. I saw a thread on here talking about it. You may want to jump on that bandwagon if you have the cash to do so.

Your rear-end and tires are really going to limit your car's capabilities at the track and even on the street...unless of course you enjoy just roasting regular street tires all the time.

**Mookz1** · 08-27-2010, 07:12 AM

thanks for all that great info. I will be looking at the group purchase for a new 9" then. Im hoping the dyno tune today will uncover whatever it is truly capable of, hopefully its not going to be dissapointing.

If it is what its supposed to be, i'll be asking everyone about what safety equipment is required and where to get it. Until I make a pass or two I will not truly know.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 08-27-2010, 07:15 AM

Be sure to post up your numbers! I'd also suggest an aftermarket torque arm with that new rear end also

It will help you plant more power to the ground. UMI sells some really nice stuff.

**jetaws6** · 08-27-2010, 09:45 AM

11.384 will be your time

**TmaxicanA** · 08-31-2010, 07:38 PM

ahhhh stock rear diff with slicks

....BOOM wating for mine too do that.

**TmaxicanA** · 08-31-2010, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by jetaws6

11.384 will be your time

if you're right, i will fly too you and personally give you a high five for being psychic.

**Mookz1** · 09-02-2010, 08:04 PM

Still in the shop......finally got a computer issue resolved.........doing about 491 hp RW......474 tq......at 94 degrees atmosphere. This was the first number ........ Now what am i looking at w/ further tuning? Temp can be different and stuff but now that we know more......what should i expect?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-03-2010, 05:25 AM

I am going to guess mid to high 11's because I think you are going to be blowing those tires off the wheels

**Mookz1** · 09-03-2010, 09:06 AM

next step is a rear end before anything then.....do u agree?

**jetaws6** · 09-03-2010, 09:41 AM

Your gonna need a cage if you plan on running at the track alot. Even with street tires a good driver should be under 11.5 with your setup

**Mookz1** · 09-03-2010, 09:53 AM

i was afraid of that.........lots of saftey stuff now. i think i will run at the track ......maybe 2 passes before i get kicked off. Now I ask......does anyone know what componets i will need to make it IHRA/NHRA legal....I know i can look what is required on their websites......i am more looking into "where" i can get the stuff..........Hell, my Bday is coming up and my sister is asking what I want.....maybe she can get me one of these cheaper items....like a drive shaft loop...fire jacket......any other suggestions?

**jetaws6** · 09-03-2010, 10:03 AM

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

**jetaws6** · 09-03-2010, 10:03 AM

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.

-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)