Need help hooking up

**99Sleeper** · 02-06-2007, 07:26 PM

Right now I have Nitto 555R tires on my TransAm. At the track there great. I have 1.75 60 foot times. There pretty wore out the have no tread left in the middle. Ive heard this is better, but It seems like they hooked better on the street with all the tread. Does anyone have any ideas?

**2manycis** · 02-06-2007, 08:03 PM

a lot of money goes into the r+d of your tires. they are made to get the best traction at full tread. You're going to hook worse with your tires worn down... "cheap man's slicks" is more of a joke than anything. running worn out tires doesn't help you at all.

**Red on Red WS6** · 02-06-2007, 10:05 PM

Buy new one's. It is not a very good idea to drive around on bald tires.

**0rion** · 02-06-2007, 10:42 PM

Do you have any suspension mods? Adjustable torque arm, control arms, or relocation brackets? That will help you hook up also. I'm in the same boat you are tire wise. My Nitto's have seen better days and will be getting replaced over the winter while the car is down.

**99Sleeper** · 02-08-2007, 09:36 AM

Thanks for the help I didnt know if any one else had experienced this problem. I dont have any suspension mods. Its all stock.

**1BADDLS1** · 02-08-2007, 11:07 AM

bald nitto's & wet weather ='s REALLY REALLY SCARY

with those 60 foots you sound like a 6 speed...
unless your stalled... what are your mods?

nitto's work well with auto's and "ok" with 6spds

MT DR's are a much better bang for your buck, although not as streetable, esp if weather gets wicked

if you dont DD the car def go w. MT DR's & if you do DD the car pick up a set of stock 16" rims (cheap!) for the track & throw some DR's on them & run street tires on your stockers

**1BADDLS1** · 02-08-2007, 11:16 AM

also def look into the suspension

since its seeing track time SubFrame Connectors are a good idea to keep things straight... also DONT waste your time/money on Bolt In subframes... Weld in ONLY
+ tunnel brace & strut/shock tower brace if she sees alot of street driving

Spohn makes quality stuff
UMI is really really good to

Lower Control Arms (adjustable & combo ends)
LCA Relocation Brackets
Panhard Rod
Torque Arm (though expensive)

also !front swaybar when heading to the track forsure

**99Sleeper** · 02-12-2007, 09:58 AM

Thanks for the help.. The car is an automatic. It all stock except hypertech computer programer. And yea rain is a bad idea on bald tires. Thats why she stays at the house in the rain.

**LS2Tuner** · 02-13-2007, 04:26 PM

The Nittos are worthless if your making decent power...... If your budget is limited and trying to get a tire that last the longest and hooks the best go with the BFG's. If hooking is your priority than there is NO subsitute for the M&H Drag Radials...... Coming in second are the Hoosier Drag Radials...... And third in all our test is Mickeys Drag Radial. And those fratings are for the street. At the track the Hoosiers and Mickeys are VERY close. We net a little higher mph with the Hoosiers cause they are lighter. The M&H's are the stickyest........ But also the softest= wear FAST.
But the BFG's are night and day difference compared to what you have now.

I would also recomend some weld in sub frame connectors. And save some money and they work awsome....... Go to the junkyard and buy some V-6 springs for the rear. It will make it hook a lot better on the street and the track.

**iLIKEtransAMS** · 02-13-2007, 04:30 PM

why is this? (the v-6 springs)

**LS2Tuner** · 02-13-2007, 04:52 PM

They have a alot lighter spring rate........ Which makes the back of the car squat the way it should. Right now you walk up to the car and push on the quater and it's as stiff as a truck. Not good for weight transfer!!!! Trust me I have cars doing 1.28 60's ALL day on a 275/60/15 dragradial with stock 4 cyl. springs.

**1BADDLS1** · 02-14-2007, 04:27 AM

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

If hooking is your priority than there is NO subsitute for the M&H Drag Radials...... Coming in second are the Hoosier Drag Radials...... And third in all our test is Mickeys Drag Radial. And those fratings are for the street. At the track the Hoosiers and Mickeys are VERY close. We net a little higher mph with the Hoosiers cause they are lighter. The M&H's are the stickyest........ But also the softest= wear FAST.
But the BFG's are night and day difference compared to what you have now.

good point... i Love the MT DR's but ive seen some slips putting the Hoosier's ahead of the MT's... ofcoarse @ a well prepped track though
Still with ya... MT DR's #1 for street traction

**ice97ta** · 02-15-2007, 02:20 PM

a little advice also, if your tires are bald in the middle you have to much pressure in them, make sure you know what psi they should be at and let some out. That will help a little, but like everyone else is saying, get some suspension mods and some new tires.

**98 Trans Am** · 02-16-2007, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by 99Sleeper

Thanks for the help I didnt know if any one else had experienced this problem. I dont have any suspension mods. Its all stock.

I would spin my nittos all the way down the track the MT's helped alot

**0rion** · 02-16-2007, 08:01 AM

what kind of mileage are the bfg's worth? 6-7k?

**98 Trans Am** · 02-16-2007, 09:19 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

what kind of mileage are the bfg's worth? 6-7k?

that depends on your heavy foot if you are always in to it my nittos didnt last too long I was always practicing launches

**bills98ta** · 02-17-2007, 10:43 AM

I use the M/T Drag Radial at 21psi and hook great !

**GMS Fleet** · 02-20-2007, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by 99Sleeper

Right now I have Nitto 555R tires on my TransAm. At the track there great. I have 1.75 60 foot times. There pretty wore out the have no tread left in the middle. Ive heard this is better, but It seems like they hooked better on the street with all the tread. Does anyone have any ideas?

Although even a stock f-body with stock tires benefit from performance suspension components, you still need tires in good condition. If you're not getting traction with the power adders that you already have, then I'd start gearing away from the bolt-ons and closer to suspension to reduce ET's.

After replacing those tires, I'd recommend to take a look at our subframe connectors, lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, and you should be good to go. PM me if you're interested.

**rickssz** · 03-02-2007, 01:07 PM

Wouldnt the softer springs let the body squat but not push the rear axle and tire espec the right side into the track?

**LS2Tuner** · 03-02-2007, 07:27 PM

Originally Posted by rickssz

Wouldnt the softer springs let the body squat but not push the rear axle and tire espec the right side into the track?

NO!! It's not like your thinking. We are doing 1.28 60 fts ALL day with stock 4 cyl.springs. You want the body to tranfer= weight to the rear tires=hooking up. PM me your email I'll send you video.