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Thread: mildew removal

  1. #1
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    Bright Red
    2000 Trans Am

    mildew removal

    I haven't driven my bird in over a year. Last night I happen to look in the windows and found this. Is there a good way for getting rid of this junk? I thought bleach rags but figured that might be bad for the leather. So any advice will help. Thanks!Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Used hot soapy water and a brush. For stubborn stains you can mix rubbing alcohol with water or white vinegar in a 50/50 part solution, then wash with soapy water again and then rinse.

    There may be some off the shelf cleaners at the parts stores.





    It's been a while how you doing, where you've been?

  3. #3
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    Bright Red
    2000 Trans Am

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Used hot soapy water and a brush. For stubborn stains you can mix rubbing alcohol with water or white vinegar in a 50/50 part solution, then wash with soapy water again and then rinse.

    There may be some off the shelf cleaners at the parts stores.
    Thanks for the advice! I wasn't sure soap & water would kill it off or not which is why I was thinking cleaning wipes but didn't want to bleach the seats either. I'll give it a go and see what happens.



    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    It's been a while how you doing, where you've been?
    I'm doing alright, just got out of things for a while. A few years or so ago I had gotten into tinkering with my motorcycles so the bird ended up not getting used for a good while. Then about 2 and a half years ago I crashed my ZRX1100. Couple months after that I picked up a VTX1800 to ride on until I could rebuild the ZRX and 1 month to the day after I got that some jackass decided they wanted to cross over my travel lanes but stopped dead blocking the lanes as I was coming up on them and ended up putting the VTX down. THEN not long after that the bird developed some wierd electric issue with the gauge cluster and tail lights and started running like crap. At that point I just became discouraged about working on either the car or bikes and just haven't done much of anything the last couple years. But I did pick up a few toys this week that should help to motivate me into installing the heads and cam that have been sitting around forever. Still waiting for the FTP 104 lid to come in and I need to order the racetronix pump kit. But after that I should pretty much be done with mods to the LS1. The largest thing that will come after installing everything is if I will be able to get a mail order tune good enough to drive it to baton rouge to be dyno tuned.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2000 Trans Am T56 Swapped - GMPP "HOT" Cam | LS6 Intake | PnP TB | 25% UD Pulley | Founders adjustable LCA/PHB/TA | Norris Catch Can | TSP 1-7/8 SS LT | TSP True Duals with bullets | SLP Lid | UMI Shock tower brace | Torq Thrust M 17x9 275/40 front 17x10.5 315/35 rear - YouTube Videos - My Car Site

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Geoff did mine. Honestly you're better off getting a uhaul and trailer it there. If you get a bad tune and drive it you'll have more issues.


    Lesson I learned with my 102.

    Get the relocation harness for the map sensor ($35) and move it to the front. If it's already pre-drilled in the back find a bolt that is the same size as the hole and use some sealer and plug it. I crushed my mapped sensor, that's how I know.

    Here's where I got mine
    LS1 MAP Extension 26"

    Verify all the intake bolts and nuts have blue locktite and are tighten down, the seal is good as well. I went thru hell trying to get mine tune cause of this reason. Had a 8" vacuum leak cause the back was raised enough for air to blow by.. I found out about the nuts came off only because I pulled the intake to relocate the map sensor.


    The bolts - I took one of those hex head sockets (for machine head bolts) that you use to tighten the intake bolts down and cut the post down about 1/8 to 3/16th an inch. This gave me room to be able to use a ratchet and tighter down properly.

    Lube the o rings on the injectors. Get a LS2 fuel rail and call it good. Some of the aftermarket rails have leaking issues.



    On tuning - have a fresh set of plugs, plus 2 more sets. Be prepare to make a run to the parts store for O2 sensors too if they foul out (this is why I say not to drive it untuned.)
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  5. #5
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Geoff did mine. Honestly you're better off getting a uhaul and trailer it there. If you get a bad tune and drive it you'll have more issues.
    That is who I plan on having do mine as well. I initial thought about uhauling it down there but was trying not to double the cost, haha. It would be the safer alternative though. Might be able to see if I could borrow a truck from someone to save alot of the rental costs.

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Lesson I learned with my 102.

    Get the relocation harness for the map sensor ($35) and move it to the front. If it's already pre-drilled in the back find a bolt that is the same size as the hole and use some sealer and plug it. I crushed my mapped sensor, that's how I know.

    Here's where I got mine
    LS1 MAP Extension 26"
    I picked this up off fleabay for the map relocation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAP-36-Wiri...72.m2749.l2649

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Verify all the intake bolts and nuts have blue locktite and are tighten down, the seal is good as well. I went thru hell trying to get mine tune cause of this reason. Had a 8" vacuum leak cause the back was raised enough for air to blow by.. I found out about the nuts came off only because I pulled the intake to relocate the map sensor.


    The bolts - I took one of those hex head sockets (for machine head bolts) that you use to tighten the intake bolts down and cut the post down about 1/8 to 3/16th an inch. This gave me room to be able to use a ratchet and tighter down properly.
    I do remember reading that it was super tight back there because of the added height. That's a good idea and I'll have to keep it in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Lube the o rings on the injectors. Get a LS2 fuel rail and call it good. Some of the aftermarket rails have leaking issues.
    I picked this fuel rail up from fleabay as well, it should do the trick. The injectors I got are LS2 style so the only additional thing I should need for it is the bolts to secure it to the intake as I believe the ones on the current LS6 intake are the wrong size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS2-LS3-Fue...72.m2749.l2649

    I also grabbed these to make the LS1 harness work with the new injectors. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-to-LS2-...72.m2749.l2649

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    On tuning - have a fresh set of plugs, plus 2 more sets. Be prepare to make a run to the parts store for O2 sensors too if they foul out (this is why I say not to drive it untuned.)
    I already have a spare set of O2s, didn't think about picking up spare plugs. I am also considering swapping to an LS2 water pump so I don't have to grind on anything.

    And got this to go from air lid to TB as I am wanting to go SD tune. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-ID-8-LONG...72.m2749.l2649

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Good to see you thought about all that.

  7. #7
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Good to see you thought about all that.
    I sat down and read forums for about 6 hours making a list of everything I'll need. PayPal tempted me with 24 months at 0% so long as I was buying from Ebay so I loaded up on everything I could from there and pulled the trigger.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Used hot soapy water and a brush. For stubborn stains you can mix rubbing alcohol with water or white vinegar in a 50/50 part solution, then wash with soapy water again and then rinse.

    There may be some off the shelf cleaners at the parts stores.





    It's been a while how you doing, where you've been?
    Thanks for the tip.

  9. #9
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Also found this out too.

    1 part ammonia, 4 parts water. Spray, and let sit for a min, scrub then wipe off. Repeat if necessary.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Decadence75 View Post
    I haven't driven my bird in over a year. Last night I happen to look in the windows and found this. Is there a good way for getting rid of this junk? I thought bleach rags but figured that might be bad for the leather. So any advice will help. Thanks!Click image for larger version. 

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    Just have the interior detailed. Lol.

  11. #11
    Junior Member 9T8WS6's Avatar
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    BLACK
    1998 WS6, ASC BUILD #206

    Smile

    I realize this is an older post but someone out there may still need info.

    I've had that issue a number of times but don't think that heavy.
    I always use windex and a clean soft rag. Cleans off very nice.
    I then clean all inside with the leather cleaner.
    It has always turned out well for me.

    This can be prevented by adding moisture removal canisters available at wal-mart in the cleaning isle
    with bleach ect. I think they are also in the area with bedding items (sheets pillow cases) and the cost is good.
    Place one in the front seat, one in the rear and change them out every 3 to 4 months if you have heavy rain.
    It's made my The Home Store and called Moisture Eliminator.
    Over time the charcoal inside turns to liquid and you need to replace it.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
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    I'm using Dehumidifier Bag Moisture Absorber that I bought from amazon. It is made of silica that can be re-used.

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