wet sanding??

**ws6freek** · 02-13-2009, 05:08 PM

I have a 98 ws6 and have looked all over the place trying to find out how much the clearcoat the factory would have sparyed on the car. I plan on wet sanding it and dont want to go to far and ruin the black paint.

**DUBL0WS6** · 02-14-2009, 11:22 AM

If you are going to wetsand use Meguiars unigrit paper, a flexible sanding block and 2500 grit or 3000 grit.

**mark21742** · 02-14-2009, 07:05 PM

be very careful wet sanding the factory paint, there is not much on it.
id go no corser than 2000 grit.
what are you trying to get out?

**0rion** · 02-14-2009, 07:57 PM

I'm moving this to the detailing section. You'll get more replies in there.

**GULLETT17** · 02-18-2009, 10:50 AM

whats your purpose for wetsanding. . . are you just buffing afterwards?
imo you can go as coarse as 1000 grit . . .just stay away from edges and sharp curves. however, my advice for someones thats not that experienced with wetsanding, is to start with very fine grit (like 2000-2500). . because depending on the damage of the paint, something like 2000 my take out the imperfections your tryin to remove. You would have hated to use coarser grit and took more material off than you had to.

**SHovV** · 02-19-2009, 08:01 PM

1000 grit is a little harder to buff out and you have a better chance of burning an edge. i would go with 1500 or higher. and the meguires unigrit paper as awesome, just let it soak in water for like 30 min before sanding. plus 1500 and higher paper is way easier and faster to buff

**GULLETT17** · 02-20-2009, 04:15 AM

Originally Posted by SHovV

1000 grit is a little harder to buff out and you have a better chance of burning an edge. i would go with 1500 or higher. and the meguires unigrit paper as awesome, just let it soak in water for like 30 min before sanding. plus 1500 and higher paper is way easier and faster to buff

well if you used 1000 grit, you would have to step up to 1500 then prob 2000 before you buff. i agree 1000 is prob a little coarse to buff to a glass shine.

**4get gto** · 02-20-2009, 02:43 PM

Seen too many people (people that didn't know what they were doing) trying to wet sand and the outcome was always not good....

Might let somebody do it that knows what they're doing.

**RyanJM** · 02-20-2009, 06:07 PM

I paint cars an do alot of w/s and buffing. I even burn paint ocasionally. Wet sanding and buffing is best left to pro's. I have someone who does my cars ocasionally since I'm good but me does it everyday all day so he's better.
Cost about $150 to $200 to have the whole car done by a pro. Cheaper people may do damage.

**mark21742** · 02-21-2009, 04:53 AM

Originally Posted by RyanJM

I paint cars an do alot of w/s and buffing. I even burn paint ocasionally. Wet sanding and buffing is best left to pro's. I have someone who does my cars ocasionally since I'm good but me does it everyday all day so he's better.
Cost about $150 to $200 to have the whole car done by a pro. Cheaper people may do damage.

i paint too, and trust me, your right......burn through makes me want to walk to the nears block wall and beat me head off of it a few times.
i pre plan and if im doing a paint job that i know im going to be s/bing i go with an extra coat or two of clear....factory paint is so thin its rediculous, and dont think id do much to it without the fear of breaking through.

hey Ryan, are you like me, love painting and taping, but hate preping and buffing then?

**SHovV** · 02-21-2009, 07:33 AM

im like you. except i only hate buffing

**DUBL0WS6** · 02-21-2009, 09:48 AM

Here's the thing about wetsanding. If you use 1500 or 2000 you'll need a rotary and wool pad to remove the sanding marks. If you stick with Unigrit 2500 or 3000 you can remove the sanding marks with a PC. It's safer for a newb. It's better to have imperfect paint than risking breaking through the clearcoat.

**RyanJM** · 02-21-2009, 05:16 PM

Actally you can take out 2000 grit with a white foam pad. i fine the biggest problem with beginners is the compound more than the pad. I use 1500 to sand and perfect it 2 with a wool pad and it doesn't burn through as easy as a foam pad with the 3m rubbing compound. I usually teach people by having them use a black foam and just swirl mark remover till they get the feel for the buffer. helps to if you give a beginer a lighter buffer. my dewalt weights more than my buddies makita.

I Actally don't mind prep work. taping on some cars is ok but i has some front bumpers. i don'tlike wet sanding or buffing much. Only do it when I have too. i don't mind just giving my car a light buf then swirl remover, and wax it. I have a random orbit I use to remove swirls from my car and suv.

**Z06-Goose** · 02-21-2009, 06:04 PM

If you think you need 2000-2500 grit sand paper, then your car doesn't need wetsanding. If you want to remove defects, like deep scratches, then you need to start with 1000, followed by 1500 and finish with 2000-2500 wetsand...

**RyanJM** · 02-22-2009, 12:39 PM

I would have to diragree. I would never go roughter that 1500 on factory paint. Now if you paint you car or a part and you know how thick your clear is then you can use 1000. I've never needed anything coarser that 1500 to get rid of orange peel or scratches. I have no problem buffing out 1500 scratches. I use 2000 for scratches on some new cars depending on brand. Takes a little more work but you have less of a chance of going through the clear.

**GULLETT17** · 02-23-2009, 04:37 AM

Originally Posted by Z06-Goose

If you think you need 2000-2500 grit sand paper, then your car doesn't need wetsanding. If you want to remove defects, like deep scratches, then you need to start with 1000, followed by 1500 and finish with 2000-2500 wetsand...

**ws6freek** · 02-26-2009, 12:56 PM

once i found out that there is very little material to work with i decides just to buff the car. if you know me u would understand that i am very picky and that i like things to be perfect. i am going to be very careful thanks for all the advice