Speaker size

**izzhemp** · 04-09-2010, 10:42 PM

whats the hatch speaker size for the 98-02 trans am hatch panel speakers? thanks

**KMdef9** · 04-11-2010, 07:27 AM

crutchfield.com is a great website with tons of info. Something for everyone to learn there, it always helps me out.

**02WS6dream** · 04-15-2010, 02:21 AM

they are components--seperate driver and tweeter. believe ppl have replaced with 5X7's..or 4X6's..a reputable shop could tell ya--or go out and measure. replacing will require some fabrication. Personally, I disabled them altogether and replaced the stock 'subs' in the sail panels with full range 6.5's to fulfill that duty. This works well with a sub(s) in the hatch to cover low end.

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-15-2010, 01:08 PM

See I was thinking of that for myself. I had originally intended on putting drop in replacements for all the speakers in the car and I got front components and sail subs but the hatch is still stock. Now I'm thinking that to keep all the sensitivities equal and have an easier time balancing my system that i'll get a matching component set like I have in the front. This means I'd need to install them in the sail location...... My only problem is that I don't want to drill holes to mount the tweeters. How did putting full range speakers back there work out for you? was the bass still decent coming from the sail locations? I'll end up with a sub at some point but I think the components and a suitable amp for the whole thing will tap me for the moment.

**02WS6dream** · 04-15-2010, 10:48 PM

worked great for me--took some time tuning it in though. that's really close to have tweeters/highs in the rear for me--pointed tweets toward rear and had them at a much lower level than the front components. for your setup i would dial in mainly midrange/midbass to them. give you some low end response till you get proper sub setup but not mess up imaging with overwhelming highs hitting you from right behind

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-16-2010, 10:37 AM

See these tweeters are SICK powerful and that's my conundrum. I'm afraid that since they are pretty much in the open that they will KILL the front soundstage which, naturally, is down by my feet. The "open and clear" design or whatever Pioneer calls it actually works really well. Especially when you do a time adjustment on the signal. My Lincoln had matching front and rear components from the factory. the rears were roughly equivalent in location to the sails on the bird and I never had issue with the sound in that car... in fact the stock JBL setup with a sub sounded fanfrickentastic. Of course with much higher quality components and a heck of a lot more power it'd be a different story.... of course with proper time adjustments and a forward bias on the balance it might not be a big problem..... Just not keen on reflecting off the hatch with smaller versions of the same speakers. I'd rather use a matched pair for the rear fill and just do a good job balancing.... this way I can use the same filters and slopes all around.

Just had a thought too... the passive xovers that come with the components have a gain adjustment for the tweeters.... I can always do a 3db drop on the rears.... given they are so much closer to my head that might be about right.

**02WS6dream** · 04-16-2010, 11:15 AM

I understand the tweeter dilema--mine are currently mounted high in the door panel (mustang) and I have the xover tweet gain at -6 and also had to use EQ to knock down the 12.5K hz more... i never went with high end components for my rear fill. I bought a mid level set of coaxials and never cared to do much tuning on them other than a time adjustment and x-over. For me, its not worth the money and time to do a lot with the rear fill--I don't really hear anything sonically significant from them anyway; I never ride in the back seat

That's my preference though--sounds like you're on the right track to gettin what you want. also a thought--i did amplify the stock hatch components before puttin the new set in the sails (which i did because the stock hatch eventually failed due to being designed for much less power) and they sounded very good. I actually prefered that sound to the coaxials in the sails; but didn't have much success fabricating the stock hatch locations for another set of speakers so went with sails for ease. good luck!

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-16-2010, 11:41 AM

well.... the components I have in the front have a similar set of units that would be drop ins for the hatch location. but the sensitivity is different.... i dunno it would be cheaper and easier to drop em in there.

See what sucks is that the 5 1/4 inch set is only rated for 30 watts RMS. while the 6 1/2's are 50 watts. The amp i'm looking at has 50 watts RMS..... sigh....

**02WS6dream** · 04-18-2010, 12:18 AM

that's ok--as long as you're not clipping that amp and sending distorted signal i doubt there would be any problem with the 50 rms amp and 30rms speakers--more power is always more desirable. speakers are ruined by clipping amplifiers much easier than from bein powered by an amp that is capable of more than the speakers are rated. its rear speakers--not like your goin to need to push that amp to its full 50 rms potential--it'll give ya a great, undistorted clear signal. I vote for that setup with the drop in hatches--adjust rear amp gain down to compensate for higher speaker sensitivity (i assume) and done! that'll also ensure you're not overdrivin the lower-rated speakers. think it'll sound killer!

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-20-2010, 05:34 AM

rear amp gain?? I think you misunderstand. I don't plan on buyin TWO of these amps lol. If I'm lucky I can pick one up for about 500-600 but they have a list price of 1,500.... Of course nobody except crutchfield sells em for that price

this is the amp i would like to use

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...PRS-A900?tab=B

**02WS6dream** · 04-20-2010, 08:52 AM

wow--that is some serious equipment. I didn't know Pioneer built any mobile electronics on that standard. I see now that it is a 4 channel amp; but notice that you can could still adjust your rear channel gains independently from the front so you can tune in safe, clear sound for both sets of your speakers. I'd like to hear that setup--the numbers are very impressive on paper. Are you sure the difference between 50 watts RMS at .003% dist and 50 watts at <=1% is worth the several hundred dollar difference in price in a mobile environment? Do you compete or is this for solely for your enjoyment? be sure and post pics when you get it in!!

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-20-2010, 09:22 AM

it's just for me..... and that list price is nowhere near what I would pay for it.... I wouldn't pay more than 600 which is twice what I paid for the amp in my saturn and 1k shy of the "list" price for this unit. I have an excellent source to feed it and an excellent set of components to push the power out to. here's the deets on those:

Components

Head Unit

Sail Subs They are the 6 1/2 inch model obviously. I have the 4 ohm version.

Edit: To be honest. I'd like to ditch the sail subs in either case. Because while I CAN keep the HU internal amp on so as to continue providing signal to the monsoon amp to power the sail subs.....

Well... let's be real. Once the main amp is in, the crappy clipped signal going to those from the monsoon will be all the more apparent and I can prob get a better thump from a single 10 inch in the hatch stealth box.

So considering that I'd prefer to disable the internal HU amp and get the monsoon out of the car along with pretty much everything else associated with it. I mean if I were to have a <.003% THD why not provide an equally clear signal right?

**02WS6dream** · 04-20-2010, 08:12 PM

definately agree with you there! you will definately want to get rid of sail subs in favor of a ten--set up right the ten could provide more bass than you'll need--depends on what kind of sound you're goin for. and the monsoon is only goin to add noise and distortion to the system. first thing i did after getting my t/a and listenin to the monsoon was ditch every component of it--except the rear hatches till they burnt up on down the road under amplification. i then had an alpine HU with no internal amp. had 2-2 channel amps; both 50rms, for front and rear. then 1000rms mono to 2 12's at 1 ohm. high end components in the doors,$100 infinities in the sails. sounded great. I am accomplishing better sound now in the mustang using same front components, but with a 100rms x2 amp on them, similar sub setup, and stock rear 5x7s on HU power.

**LSCyaL8R** · 04-23-2010, 08:14 AM

My Saturn sounds fantastic.... In case you haven't caught on yet I'm a big Pioneer fan. I think back in the day they represented bang for the buck and Just like Hyundai did with their cars Pioneer now represents bang for the buck in a much higher end category than they used to be in.

The sub setup in my Satty is ancient. It's been thumping away since 2003 though so no complaints from me.

Qlogic sealed box
Power Acoustik FUBR-12
Sony Xplod 800 watt monoblock
Pioneer Premier TS-D1702R at all 4 stock locations
Pioneer Premeir PRS-D4200F Main Amp
Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Head Unit

All together it sounds fantastic. I have no acoustic dampening or tuning of any kind in the vehicle. I'm sure this system would SCREAM if i were to ever go that route. Yet the parts were very inexpensive. I think I only spent like 130 or so on the whole set of 4 speakers!