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  1. #1
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    Should I get a new amp?

    Ok so basically I'm sick and tired of the way my speakers sound. I've recently replaced all(4) 6.5in speakers in my car with alpine type G speakers(240w 60w RMS) and an aftermarket head unit, but it pales in comparison to the 5.1 surround sound system I have on my computer. Also I know for a fact it isn't the equalizer settings because I know what i'm doing when it comes to adjusting those.

    So on to my question(s). Is the stock 200w monsoon amp to blame or is it just the fact that I have only 4 speakers and should invest in a pair of moderate subs(which I don't want to do because of the extra weight)? If the problem is the amp then my next question is an amp in the $250 price range worth investing in? Also what kind of difference will I experience with a new amp without touching my speakers?

  2. #2
    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    The stock amp is 500w. If you're all aftermarket other than the stock amp, I would bypass the stock amp. See if that helps.

  3. #3
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    Ok so basically I'm sick and tired of the way my speakers sound. I've recently replaced all(4) 6.5in speakers in my car with alpine type G speakers(240w 60w RMS) and an aftermarket head unit, but it pales in comparison to the 5.1 surround sound system I have on my computer. Also I know for a fact it isn't the equalizer settings because I know what i'm doing when it comes to adjusting those.

    So on to my question(s). Is the stock 200w monsoon amp to blame or is it just the fact that I have only 4 speakers and should invest in a pair of moderate subs(which I don't want to do because of the extra weight)? If the problem is the amp then my next question is an amp in the $250 price range worth investing in? Also what kind of difference will I experience with a new amp without touching my speakers?
    Don't try and compare your household speakers to your cars, they're always going to be better. The symmetry and air space alone if enough to make crappy computer/surround better than car speakers.

    The amp is partially, probably mostly, to blame. You also have to factor into other things like wire interference, wire size, speaker socket characteristics, HU might not be powerful enough for speakers, resistance of speakers may not match HU power output, the list goes on.

    If your REALLY concerned with them sounding like crap, I would suggest running all brand new wires from your HU to a new 4channel amp and new wires from the amp to each speaker, thereby doing what kahanareef suggested and bypassing the amp. It's alot of labor, but with a good amp, your almost guarnteed to get better results.

    A set of subs, IMO, will help balance and kind of "buffer" things out. Basically help distract you from the flaws in the other speakers, making a long story short. Weight shouldn't be a concern b/c you should be putting them in the trunk of the car which is going to shift (small shift at that) your center point of gravity, putting more power to the ground. If it's still a concern, make the box/wiring disconnectable, so can remove it for drag days or for when someones talking sh1t!

    As fas as a new amp goes, you get what you pay for 99% of the time. $250 i'snt bad, but spending $500 would be better. I imagine a 250 dollar amp would be better than stocker, mainly b/c it's newer, but I would make sure you get an amp that's properly rated to power your speakers. That will make a huge difference, louder and probably clearer sound.

  4. #4
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Don't try and compare your household speakers to your cars, they're always going to be better. The symmetry and air space alone if enough to make crappy computer/surround better than car speakers.

    The amp is partially, probably mostly, to blame. You also have to factor into other things like wire interference, wire size, speaker socket characteristics, HU might not be powerful enough for speakers, resistance of speakers may not match HU power output, the list goes on.

    If your REALLY concerned with them sounding like crap, I would suggest running all brand new wires from your HU to a new 4channel amp and new wires from the amp to each speaker, thereby doing what kahanareef suggested and bypassing the amp. It's alot of labor, but with a good amp, your almost guarnteed to get better results.

    A set of subs, IMO, will help balance and kind of "buffer" things out. Basically help distract you from the flaws in the other speakers, making a long story short. Weight shouldn't be a concern b/c you should be putting them in the trunk of the car which is going to shift (small shift at that) your center point of gravity, putting more power to the ground. If it's still a concern, make the box/wiring disconnectable, so can remove it for drag days or for when someones talking sh1t!

    As fas as a new amp goes, you get what you pay for 99% of the time. $250 i'snt bad, but spending $500 would be better. I imagine a 250 dollar amp would be better than stocker, mainly b/c it's newer, but I would make sure you get an amp that's properly rated to power your speakers. That will make a huge difference, louder and probably clearer sound.
    thanks alot for all that info, much appreciated.
    So if I choose to get a set of small subs (8' maybe 10') can I run them off my stock amp?

  5. #5
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    thanks alot for all that info, much appreciated.
    So if I choose to get a set of small subs (8' maybe 10') can I run them off my stock amp?
    You can, if there small (wattage wise) enough. I wouldn't recommend though

  6. #6
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    The stock amp is rated at 500watts for 2000+ Birds and Maros but it has no where near that power it's more like 300Peak. It was 200 and gm decided in 2000+ to sell it as 500 watt even though the part number is the same as the 200 version's from 98 through 99. They were tring to keep up with fords mach system but they knew they were ending production of the 4th gens so they were never allowed to redesign it. It makes maybe 300 peak watts but is more like 200 through 8 channels. You may only get 100 peak watts out of the sub channel. If you can find a profile 700 watt mono amp, they are great for powering mild subs and they are cheap but I don't know if they make them any more. I bought one 4 years ago for under 100 bucks. It powers my infinity 10 in a stealth and sounds real good. If you are going to do head unit and speakers I would also say buy a mild 4 channel amp. If you can find one for a good price that meets your power needs they do make 4+1 channel amps that can run the 4 channels for you speakers and 1 channel for your sub.

  7. #7
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaycenK View Post
    The stock amp is rated at 500watts for 2000+ Birds and Maros but it has no where near that power it's more like 300Peak. It was 200 and gm decided in 2000+ to sell it as 500 watt even though the part number is the same as the 200 version's from 98 through 99. They were tring to keep up with fords mach system but they knew they were ending production of the 4th gens so they were never allowed to redesign it. It makes maybe 300 peak watts but is more like 200 through 8 channels. You may only get 100 peak watts out of the sub channel. If you can find a profile 700 watt mono amp, they are great for powering mild subs and they are cheap but I don't know if they make them any more. I bought one 4 years ago for under 100 bucks. It powers my infinity 10 in a stealth and sounds real good. If you are going to do head unit and speakers I would also say buy a mild 4 channel amp. If you can find one for a good price that meets your power needs they do make 4+1 channel amps that can run the 4 channels for you speakers and 1 channel for your sub.
    I agree.

    Seeing how crappy the numbers really are, I really wouldn't bother with the stocker.

  8. #8
    Senior Member SteveCZ28's Avatar
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    i would bypass the amp...i did that and never knew i could get soo much good sound out of this car...amazing highs, yet still good lows

  9. #9
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveCZ28 View Post
    i would bypass the amp...i did that and never knew i could get soo much good sound out of this car...amazing highs, yet still good lows
    I would def. like to try it out now. Only problem is I have no idea what I need to do with the wiring lol.

  10. #10
    Senior Member SteveCZ28's Avatar
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    i made it simple and ran new wiring from my deck to the speakers...wasnt hard at all. although some guys may reccomend running wires to the amp and distributing from there...i wanted simplicity. so thats y i ran new wiring

  11. #11
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    I would def. like to try it out now. Only problem is I have no idea what I need to do with the wiring lol.
    crutchfield has alot of great, detailed info to help.

  12. #12
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    crutchfield has alot of great, detailed info to help.
    Yup they have compleat how to guids and it is not that hard to do. toughest part is taking the darn door panels off. the rest is cake. Choos the right size wires for the job and rout your wires so they will not be worn or crshed and you should have no problem at all. Buy an adapter plug for the Head unit and You can get them for the speakers as well if you are not good with making wire conections. Tons of giuds on line so use google.

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