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  1. #1
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    1999 Pontiac Trams Am WS6

    Pics of sail panel with Dynamat

    Does anyone have pics of sail panel speakers with Dynamat or the like? Need to replace mine soon and would like to see pics or any tips.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Do you mean with the sound deadner installed?






    I may have done a little overkill.


    You can't see it in this pic but I did put some in the speaker pockets and under the foam of the arm rest area

  3. #3
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Do you mean with the sound deadner installed?






    I may have done a little overkill.


    You can't see it in this pic but I did put some in the speaker pockets and under the foam of the arm rest area
    How much did it take to do the entire car?
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    https://www.fatmat.com/shop/rattletrap-cat_23459



    IIRC I got 100-125sqft roll. But I did the whole car

  5. #5
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    If I do it I'm the type who will do it once and do it right so I would do the entire car too.

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Same here. I did it when I replaced my carpet.

    I have a e cutout and LT headers. The stuff works, When I close me windows and run ac on the Interstate I can still have a conversation without yelling.

    It also got rid of some annoying rattles.

  7. #7
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    Wow, never thought of doing anything other than around the speaker. Might have to remove the whole sail panel now lol. Thanks SMWS6TA!

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Pics of sail panel with Dynamat

    I can show you more pics of you want
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

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    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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  9. #9
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    If you don't mind I'd like some hatch and sail panel pics. Don't want to gut car but thinking about doing back half of car minus under carpet.

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    I guess I didn't take any of the hatch area. I do remember laying some across the back and in the fender wells. I didn't lay any on the floor pan of the t top area or the back panel where the lights mount. Figure I didn't need it there. I ran out of material to put any on the hatch itself. I also put some strips of 4" wide and as long as the door on the inside of the door as well.


    I've watch some other videos after I did this that I didn't need to do as much as I did. If you use something to tap the metal around and listen for hollow or high tapping sound, those are the areas that need the sound deadner. Solid sounding areas don't rattle. I did a lot on the front seat areas and drive shaft tunnel cause that FAT Mat is also works for heat as well. I can say it's dropped my passenger floor temps quite a bit. You can no longer feel the heat radiate thru the floor pan from the Y pipe. Being a lowered car I have my exhaust tucked fairly tight to the body to avoid hitting speed bumps or driveway peaks.

  11. #11
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    On the inside of the door did you put it over top the factory moister barrier or remove that and the tar strip then put Fat Mat on? Thanks for the pics, very helpful. Need to replace passenger window motor soon so might as well do the door while it apart.

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    No I put it on the inside of the door, like the outside skin of the door panel. I removed the moisture plastic and reached in and pressed it on.

    I also did this to the speaker cubby holes on the sail panel too.

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