key off dome light on

[SS II]

On my 98 Camaro, there is a feature when turn off the ignition and the dome light come on. But now it doesn't do that all the time. Maybe once a few months it will works again, but if I try turn the key on and off, it won't work again. Does it happen on anyone's car? Or any clue on this problem?

[pajeff02]

Honestly, I have never paid attention to what my dome lights do. I did have an issue with them coming on one time with the car shut off and the key in the cupholder... but it only did it that day.

[Smittro]

Any other issues? Wipers, stereo, windows ever stop working for a little while then start working again?

If so this could be a sign of the BCM or Integrated Body Control Module starting to show an upcoming issue.

Durring the times when the dome light desides to not come on, give your key a wiggle while it's in the ignition see if it triggers light.

If the light suddenly comes on when you wiggle the key it could very well be your ignition switch.

[pajeff02]

Steven -- when the BCM starts to go, any idea if extreme heat magnifies the symptoms? I haven't had any issues since, but have suspected that the BCM might have been the culprit that day.

[Smittro]

Steven -- when the BCM starts to go, any idea if extreme heat magnifies the symptoms? I haven't had any issues since, but have suspected that the BCM might have been the culprit that day.

I would say there's probably a good chance of it.

I have always suspected temperature changes as cause for why the solder joints fail in the first place because the joints are done by machine and are too thin.

These boards are/were also mass produced in Singapore.. So the full board printing technique used is unknown.

Many companies here use a silk screen technique as part of the process of printing boards.

As you know just about everything is at least somewhat effected by temps, such as extreme cold, and or heat.

I would surmise this expansion and contraction of the curcuit board could very well be the issue or cause.

I have yet to see an actual board componet problem, it just about always seems to just be the joints, since the resolder usually fixes the issue.

Especially since most curcuit boards are empregnated with copper conductors on both sides.

Copper "moves" under temperature, this can be noticed in a house where the copper potable water system has pipes that are not properly secured within the walls, or in an open place like your basement.

The copper pipe can be sometimes heard to "bang" or "creek" as they fill with hot/cold water.

This is the sound of the cooper "moving" as it heats or cools.

The other thought is vibration,, since there are no fasteners that actually mount the BCM ridgid and it sort of "floats" within its' carrier.

[Smittro]

Another possibility in mind is the fact that the pins in question are much larger than many of the other solder pins.

The larger the pin the more heat time required for a good solid joint.

Too little heat time and the joint will be weak and suseptible to disconnection or breaking.

[pajeff02]

I may just have to pull that sucker out this winter and re-solder it. Thanks!

[Smittro]

I may just have to pull that sucker out this winter and re-solder it. Thanks!

No prob,,It's real easy and cheap insurrance Jeff.

Only a slight pita is the fact that you're working up side down to get it out and back in.

Just try to not over handle the board componets or connection pins with your fingers and hold it by it's edges and you'll be golden.

[pajeff02]

My best project to date was soldering in a new LCD display on a Kenwood head unit years ago. Something like 80 tiny pins to play with. I am guessing from our past exchanges on here that I am probably 2/3 your height and size -- as such, I can still squeeze under the dash fairly easily.