Bypassing the Monsoon Amp

[SMWS6TA]

is there a wire harness kit that will allow me to bypass the monsoon amp without running new wire to speakers or cut and splice at the amp?

I have an aftermarket deck and I've notice that the front speakers just don't sound like before. I do not want to go back to the factory because let's face it, you can hook up an ipod without the cassette adapter and it just doesn't look or sound right. the 80's are long gone.


I really don't want to do a new speaker wire setup but will if I had too.

[RedSuperSport]

bump because im installing a new head unit this weekend

[SMWS6TA]

This is what I've found from another site (that shall not be name )

THE EASY WAY TO BYPASS THE MONSOON AMPLIFIER FOR SPEAKER UPGRADES:
1. The Monsoon amp is located behind the spare wheel on the passenger side rear quarter panel. Remove the spair tire and equipment so you can easily reach in and disconnect the large connector from the amp.
2. Once you have the connector unplugged, use the following wiring diagram for Camaro* or Firebird* and find out what wires come from the headunit and what wires go out to the speaker. Because I just did this for my girlfriend's 2002 Firebird, below I'll use an example of what wires to splice together. Basically, the idea is that you're literally taking the wire that was supposed to go into the amp and connecting it straight to the wire that was supposed to go from the amp to the speaker -- effectively bypassing the amp, and bypassing any needs for running new wires! My job rewiring and running new wires to the side panel speakers took 7 hours, whereas it only took me 1 hour to rewire the front speakers using the amp bypass approach.



2002 Firebird with Monsoon Amp Wiring Summary:
I only had to bypass the amp for the doorpanel speakers and the side/sail panel speakers. Here is the wiring I used:
E1 - Dark Green - Right Front Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F6 - Dark Green - Right Front Speaker (Negative)
F1 - Light Green - Right Front Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F7 - Orange - Right Front Speaker (Positive)
E2 - Grey - Left Front Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO E16 - Light Blue - Left Front Speaker (Negative)
E3 - Tan - Left Front Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO E15 - Dark Blue - Left Front Speaker (Positive)
E4 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F14 - White - Right Rear Speaker (Positive)
E5 - Light Blue - Right Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F13 - Grey - Right Rear Speaker (Negative)
E6 - Yellow - Left Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F16 - Purple - Left Rear Speaker (Negative)
E7 - Brown - Left Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F15 - Red - Left Rear Speaker (Positive)

Using this idea, you'll have the front door speakers and the side/sail panel speakers bypassing the amp, while the stock tweeters and the stock subwoofer in the rear quarter panels are still powered by the amp. In my case, I just disconnected the crappy sounding "subwoofers" in the rear quarter panels and left it to be just a 4 speaker system with 2 additional tweeters in the front doors.

*- links did not work so I took out the hyperlink.





Even though it requires me to cut and splice (exactly what I didn't want to do) this does makes sense. Anybody see any problems with this?

[ORION WS6]

I designed a plug that plugs into factory harness near monsoon amp. no cutting of factory wires in trunck area or by factory speaker locations. here are some pictures.




its not that hard to make just time consuming. but worth every minute. i heat wrapped the terminals.

[ORION WS6]

PM replied

[mr.prick]

Walmart carries the connector.

You will need to move the pins around to match the Monsoon amp harness.

[BadTA00]

Have you looked at the Pacific Accessory Corporation's stuff. I think the AOEM-GM21C might be what you need to by-pass the factory amp. But look over their products and see what you can find:

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

http://www.pac-audio.com

I think Kee Audio among other places sell their products.

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