Out or in?

**slims00ls1z28** · 03-09-2009, 12:41 PM

Anyone ever have the bottom engine apart in car? I'm pretty sure my rod bearing are toast so the next couple of days will be spent repairing/replacing them. Question being anyone ever do this with the engine in car? I glanced at it but haven't put it in the air yet to see how accessible it is can be from the bottom. Pull it or in car? what say you?

**Sarge** · 03-09-2009, 12:54 PM

Hell no....pull that motor man.....no fricking way I would even attempt it in the car...

**slims00ls1z28** · 03-09-2009, 01:33 PM

Kind of what I was thinking. Thanks. Probably better that way in case I need to take the crank to have it turned. Hoping I caught it in time to avert that.

**Stone** · 03-09-2009, 01:53 PM

You would have to take out more on the bottom to get it out. Thats one of the reasons i bought the GTO. Its very work friendly. Motor is WAY easier to pull than an F-Body. Hell i pulled the driver side head off in less than 2 hours

**cammed goat** · 03-09-2009, 02:07 PM

If ya got a lift, get a dolly and drop the motor. My friend had that done by the shop that tuned our GTOs. Unbolt the front subframe, unplug the harnesses, and lift the body off the subframe/motor. Done!

**Sarge** · 03-09-2009, 03:23 PM

Shit pull that bitch up and out....just clean her up a tad before you do....heads/headers etc....

**qwkgto** · 03-09-2009, 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by slims00ls1z28

Anyone ever have the bottom engine apart in car? I'm pretty sure my rod bearing are toast so the next couple of days will be spent repairing/replacing them. Question being anyone ever do this with the engine in car? I glanced at it but haven't put it in the air yet to see how accessible it is can be from the bottom. Pull it or in car? what say you?

the way the crossmemeber is made no way in hell,got to pull it,I just put my new motor together yesterday..

**cammed goat** · 03-09-2009, 03:38 PM

PATRIOT heads...DAMN!!! That fkker breathes doesn't it?

**slims00ls1z28** · 03-09-2009, 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by Stone Cold Goat

Motor is WAY easier to pull than an F-Body

Ya I've noticed. Part of the reason why a motor that has a hole in the side of the block is still in the car (my Z28)! Well that and I haven't really had the money to build the other yet. 2 toasted LS1's now an almost toast LS2. Quite a track record, in fairness to the LS's though all gave up the ghost do to bonehead shit, water puddles, 2nd gear drop at 80 mph (long story but not me doing it), now not checking the oil.

**LS2Tuner** · 03-10-2009, 04:13 PM

Yeah you have to pull the motor!!

So I still don't understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How and WHY do you think or know you trashed the rod bearings? I blow over 250 through these things ALL the time and have NEVER hurt a bearing.

**Sarge** · 03-11-2009, 02:37 AM

Probably a rod bolt...

**slims00ls1z28** · 03-14-2009, 12:05 PM

She's back together! Definately could not have gotten it from the bottom. Had I known then what I know now I also would have pulled the trans out with it, trying to align the engine over the center hump and past the rack into the trans was a royal PITA.

It was a rod bearing. Figured that 4 qts low on oil and a newley developed knock and that it would quell slighlty at lower RPM's with a light load, but got louder as RPM's climbed had to be a rod bearing. #5 to be specific. Ripped the outer material off the bearing and transferred it to the crank. Fortunately it only did this down the center of the bearing itself so the brass never came in contact with the crankshaft and the bearing didn't spin out of place. Mains were fine as well. No scoring on any. Polished off the transfer and it was good to go. Spec'd out with like new tolerances, installed new bearings and shes good to go no knocking, tapping etc.

35$ for new bearings, 86$ for the battery which decided to finally croak (had been going for almost a year), new thermostat which also took a dump, fluids, frozen nuts (fucking 34 degree highs) and plenty of busted knuckles and she's good to go.

**LS2Tuner** · 03-14-2009, 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by slims00ls1z28

She's back together! Definately could not have gotten it from the bottom. Had I known then what I know now I also would have pulled the trans out with it, trying to align the engine over the center hump and past the rack into the trans was a royal PITA.

It was a rod bearing. Figured that 4 qts low on oil and a newley developed knock and that it would quell slighlty at lower RPM's with a light load, but got louder as RPM's climbed had to be a rod bearing. #5 to be specific. Ripped the outer material off the bearing and transferred it to the crank. Fortunately it only did this down the center of the bearing itself so the brass never came in contact with the crankshaft and the bearing didn't spin out of place. Mains were fine as well. No scoring on any. Polished off the transfer and it was good to go. Spec'd out with like new tolerances, installed new bearings and shes good to go no knocking, tapping etc.

35$ for new bearings, 86$ for the battery which decided to finally croak (had been going for almost a year), new thermostat which also took a dump, fluids, frozen nuts (fucking 34 degree highs) and plenty of busted knuckles and she's good to go.

Might teach you to keep an eye on that oil level now huh. . . . . . . . . .

I would either SeaFoam your ring packs or AutoRX. I can guarantee that they are gummed up with burnt oil. I would also invest in a oil to air separator to limit oil consummation through the PCV.

**slims00ls1z28** · 03-14-2009, 08:02 PM

No kidding. Catch can is a priority now.

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