need to R/R strut bushing

**gagoat** · 08-10-2009, 02:48 PM

has much help as u can please.....

rookie

**PartsGedder** · 08-10-2009, 03:06 PM

Originally Posted by gagoat

has much help as u can please.....

rookie

Ok - Are you looking for instructions to remove the upper strut mount bushing or the end-link bushing?

**gagoat** · 08-10-2009, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by PartsGedder

Ok - Are you looking for instructions to remove the upper strut mount bushing or the end-link bushing?

upper strut mount i think...
the part that comes up into the engine compart ment is about 1/2" above the frame

**PartsGedder** · 08-10-2009, 03:32 PM

Originally Posted by gagoat

upper strut mount i think...
the part that comes up into the engine compart ment is about 1/2" above the frame

Yep - That's the upper strut mount.
Cliff Note version.

1. Impact the top 24mm nut off, then back on finger tight.
2. Car on stands, remove tire.
3. Un-clip the brake line from the strut.
4. Un-bolt the endlink from the sway bar.
5. Remove brake caliper bolt blocking the clevis bolt.
6. Remove the clevis bolts. Knuckle will drop down, strut will be left hanging
7. Hang on to strut with one hand, remove the finger tight nut with the other.
8. Spring compressor (for safety) spin off the 2nd 24mm strut nut. Remove the strut mount and watch the bearing bb's go all over the floor. You should replace these when the mounts are replaced anyway unless they are new or recently replaced.

A bit more...
For the front struts, with the car on the ground, remove the top 24mm nut on the strut retainer and then thread it back on finger tight, enough to keep it in place. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR. Jack up the car, remove the tire and remove the brake line from the strut. It will need to be twisted out of the bracket. Un-bolt the endlink from the sway bar. Remove the brake caliper bolt blocking the clevis bolt. Take caution not to let the brake line get snagged or pinched when the knuckle drops. Remove the 2 clevis bolts and while hanging on to the strut, remove the top nut. Whole strut should come out. Using a spring compressor, compress the front spring (for safety reasons) and remove the 2nd 24mm nut on top of the strut mount. Re use the 2 cupped washers, the boot, upper spring seat, and the 2 cupped washers (yes the washers are mentioned twice because they are critical). Get the new strut, put the boot on, new bump stop on, 1st cupped washer on to the strut shaft facing down like an umbrella, spring, and upper spring seat. Put the spring on the strut and then put on the upper spring perch. Make sure you re-use the factory rubber spring isolators. Place the bearing in the mount so the yellow side of the bearing is showing (white side in the mount) and place it on the strut shaft. Take the 2nd cupped washer and place it facing up (teacup) on the strut shaft on top of the mount and re-use the OE nut to complete the assembly An impact works very well for this. Re-attach the endlink to the strut. Hang the strut as you did when you removed it and mount it to the knuckle with the new clevis bolts. Put the brake caliper bolt in. Re-clip the brake line in the strut and attach the end link back to the swaybar. Jack the knuckle up until the strut mount is seated and use the new 24mm crimped nut and re-use the top strut plate and secure it back in place.

Hope this helps. Keep asking questions, we're here for ya'.

**gagoat** · 08-10-2009, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by PartsGedder

Yep - That's the upper strut mount.
Cliff Note version.

1. Impact the top 24mm nut off, then back on finger tight.
2. Car on stands, remove tire.
3. Un-clip the brake line from the strut.
4. Un-bolt the endlink from the sway bar.
5. Remove brake caliper bolt blocking the clevis bolt.
6. Remove the clevis bolts. Knuckle will drop down, strut will be left hanging
7. Hang on to strut with one hand, remove the finger tight nut with the other.
8. Spring compressor (for safety) spin off the 2nd 24mm strut nut. Remove the strut mount and watch the bearing bb's go all over the floor. You should replace these when the mounts are replaced anyway unless they are new or recently replaced.

A bit more...
For the front struts, with the car on the ground, remove the top 24mm nut on the strut retainer and then thread it back on finger tight, enough to keep it in place. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR. Jack up the car, remove the tire and remove the brake line from the strut. It will need to be twisted out of the bracket. Un-bolt the endlink from the sway bar. Remove the brake caliper bolt blocking the clevis bolt. Take caution not to let the brake line get snagged or pinched when the knuckle drops. Remove the 2 clevis bolts and while hanging on to the strut, remove the top nut. Whole strut should come out. Using a spring compressor, compress the front spring (for safety reasons) and remove the 2nd 24mm nut on top of the strut mount. Re use the 2 cupped washers, the boot, upper spring seat, and the 2 cupped washers (yes the washers are mentioned twice because they are critical). Get the new strut, put the boot on, new bump stop on, 1st cupped washer on to the strut shaft facing down like an umbrella, spring, and upper spring seat. Put the spring on the strut and then put on the upper spring perch. Make sure you re-use the factory rubber spring isolators. Place the bearing in the mount so the yellow side of the bearing is showing (white side in the mount) and place it on the strut shaft. Take the 2nd cupped washer and place it facing up (teacup) on the strut shaft on top of the mount and re-use the OE nut to complete the assembly An impact works very well for this. Re-attach the endlink to the strut. Hang the strut as you did when you removed it and mount it to the knuckle with the new clevis bolts. Put the brake caliper bolt in. Re-clip the brake line in the strut and attach the end link back to the swaybar. Jack the knuckle up until the strut mount is seated and use the new 24mm crimped nut and re-use the top strut plate and secure it back in place.

Hope this helps. Keep asking questions, we're here for ya'.

No air can i still get it off ... all day sounds like thanks for all ur help how much do these parts cost both sides

**PartsGedder** · 08-10-2009, 03:54 PM

Originally Posted by gagoat

No air can i still get it off ... all day sounds like thanks for all ur help how much do these parts cost both sides

You can still get the top 24mm off without air. Breaker bar and socket. If they have been on there a while, a bit of penetrating oil (PB Blast, etc) on the threads may help. Check into an electric impact. See if you can rent one or convince your buddy he needs on and borrow it.

Probably looking at 2 - 3 hours for the first time, 3-5 if you neighbor with the broken lawn mower comes over and "helps".

**gagoat** · 08-10-2009, 03:56 PM

cost of parts roughly

**PartsGedder** · 08-10-2009, 04:06 PM

5851 mount is $42.99 each - need 2.
5030 bearing is $38.57 each - need 2. $163.12 for mounts and bearings, plus shipping. It's suggested the bearings are replaced at the same time. Sometime the bearing will separate and the bb's will fall out or the plastic may be damaged or just plain worn out.

Pedders GTO Parts List

**gagoat** · 08-10-2009, 04:09 PM

THANKS for ur help now have to save up to get them

**PartsGedder** · 08-10-2009, 04:19 PM

When you get ready, you can check out our dealers or go direct from the Pedders web site if you choose to go with Pedders.

Dealer Finder

**0rion** · 08-13-2009, 09:24 AM

now that's service with a smile.

**gagoat** · 08-13-2009, 10:49 AM

yes it was, Thanks again for all of your help

**CamaroFan71** · 08-13-2009, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by PartsGedder

You can still get the top 24mm off without air. Breaker bar and socket. If they have been on there a while, a bit of penetrating oil (PB Blast, etc) on the threads may help. Check into an electric impact. See if you can rent one or convince your buddy he needs on and borrow it.

Probably looking at 2 - 3 hours for the first time, 3-5 if you neighbor with the broken lawn mower comes over and "helps".