Check oil level "chime" '04 GTO....

**Mich's04** · 08-12-2007, 06:30 AM

The oil level chime/alert shows up on the dash about 7 out of 10 start ups.

Yet the oil level shows slightly above full when I check the dipstick. I have 5.5 qts. in it now. Does it require 6 qts.? I don't want to over fill it and cause an oil leak.

Or is there a oil level sensor hidden someplace that may be bad?

Thanks,
Mich

**dbassd** · 08-12-2007, 03:30 PM

Originally Posted by Mich's04

The oil level chime/alert shows up on the dash about 7 out of 10 start ups.

Yet the oil level shows slightly above full when I check the dipstick. I have 5.5 qts. in it now. Does it require 6 qts.? I don't want to over fill it and cause an oil leak.

Or is there a oil level sensor hidden someplace that may be bad?

Thanks,
Mich

Look in your owners manual at 5-92.

Your GTO takes 6.5 quarts of oil so you are a full quart underfilled right now.

**Sarge** · 08-12-2007, 04:25 PM

Yeah he is correct. With a filter it should take 6.5 quarts. I have dual remote filters and an oil cooler and takes 8+........

**Mich's04** · 08-12-2007, 05:23 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll add that extra qt. and re-mark the dipstick.

I'm waiting for my new owners manual to come in the mail. Unfortunately the car didn't have one in it when we bought it.

I'm used to the old design smallblock engines. The LSx series is a new venture for me. So far I'm pretty impressed with this engine.

Take care,
Mich

**tyxpx** · 08-12-2007, 08:03 PM

Did you start it up and let it run for about 5 sec before you check your dipstick?

**Mich's04** · 08-13-2007, 07:35 AM

Originally Posted by tyxpx

Did you start it up and let it run for about 5 sec before you check your dipstick?

Nope. Just open the hood first thing in morning, once a week. Pull the stick, wipe it and re-stick it, read it.

So starting it up then shutting it off, then read the dipstick is the key to getting an accurate reading with these engines???

**chris190** · 08-13-2007, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Mich's04

Nope. Just open the hood first thing in morning, once a week. Pull the stick, wipe it and re-stick it, read it.

So starting it up then shutting it off, then read the dipstick is the key to getting an accurate reading with these engines???

Also make sure that the vehicle sits straight and not inclined to get a correct reading....

**Rob** · 08-13-2007, 11:16 AM

Originally Posted by Mich's04

Nope. Just open the hood first thing in morning, once a week. Pull the stick, wipe it and re-stick it, read it.

So starting it up then shutting it off, then read the dipstick is the key to getting an accurate reading with these engines???

No, you're doing it right. Starting it up won't show you the correct amount as it all won't be in the pan anymore.

**tyxpx** · 08-13-2007, 09:42 PM

I have always started it up first (to get the oil where it's supposed to be) and have never had a problem. When I worked at a dealership the Senior Shop Foreman always told us to do that. He did say that he only had 5.5 qts. in it when it requires 6.5 with a filter change and when not starting it up first it shows full on the dip stick, so it IS low. Try starting it first for a few seconds then checking it, see what it says then. Let me know. To each his own, stick with what works for ya.

**Mich's04** · 08-14-2007, 07:16 AM

chris190, I checked it yesterday on a level floor where the lift is. It showed good. I added the extra qt. while I was at it. The reading went up a little more on the stick. No more chime after start up. Yay!

tyxpx, I will give that a try today and let you know later.
Right now I got the car on the lift and am trying to finish putting the '05-'06 red brake upgrade on. Then I get to put the console and back seat together. Friggin antenna for the satelite radio went bad.

Thanks for all the help and input everyone. I was starting to feel like an idiot checking simple oil level.

**chris190** · 08-14-2007, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by Mich's04

chris190, I checked it yesterday on a level floor where the lift is. It showed good. I added the extra qt. while I was at it. The reading went up a little more on the stick. No more chime after start up. Yay!

tyxpx, I will give that a try today and let you know later.
Right now I got the car on the lift and am trying to finish putting the '05-'06 red brake upgrade on. Then I get to put the console and back seat together. Friggin antenna for the satelite radio went bad.

Thanks for all the help and input everyone. I was starting to feel like an idiot checking simple oil level.

When u get a chance after u done please let me know how the 05-06 brakes installed....I will prolly do the same in the near future...Did u need any special parts to upgrade them or you simply just took the 05-06 calippers and rotors and connected them in place of the old once...what about brake lines? did u have to change them?

**Mich's04** · 08-14-2007, 05:53 PM

tyxpx,
I tried that 5 sec. start up then check it method. It did show a little more towards the full mark instead of over full. I might just remark the stick after it sits overnight. That way I don't have to do a mad dash under the hood.

chris190,
I got the parts (used) from Contemporary Corvette in Bristol, PA. He's now deals in 04-06 GTO's along with late model Firebirds and Camaro's.

I received the front and rear red powder coated calipers with brake hoses attached, left and right steer knuckles, brake pad frame to knuckle bolts, caliper to pad frame bolts, front and rear rotors. Cost w/shipping $514

I had the rotors lightly cut to remove the surface rust. Gave the calipers a good cleaning. The brake hoses were like new. Cost to turn rotors $43.

I bought Hawk pads for the front and Raybestos ceramic pads for the rear. Cost $160.

Total $717 to convert it.

The '05-'06 rear brakes are basically the same. The only difference I noticed was the rear rotors are vented for '05-'06. '04's are solid.
The swap is straight forward.

Fronts: I heard that you can sleeve or bushing the brake pad/caliper frame bolt holes to use the same small bolts to bolt it to the knuckle.
Whether thats true or not I don't know.
I just change out the steer knuckles and used the larger bolt setup. The brake hoses threaded right up to the hard lines no problem.
The front rotors are definitely beefer. About an inch in diameter bigger, and about 5mm wider. I was impressed.
The swap is straight forward with the exception of swapping out the steer knuckles, which may require a front end alignment.

Mine will need an alignment even though I measured and mark things. The steering wheel is off just enough to annoy me.

I gave the system a good flush and bleed. The pedal seems more positive. Over this weekend, if I get a chance I'll take it down one of my favorite roads and take it up over a 100 mph and give the test. I'll let you know what I think of the big brake setup.

Sorry if I was a little long winded on this reply. I ramble on sometimes.
Hope this answers some of your ?'s

**chris190** · 08-15-2007, 08:41 AM

Thanks for the info...
That seems like a good deal for it..... I was also looking into the Baer front callipers and rotors from pfyc.com for about $1100...the 13in rotors but if I can have the entire 05-06 system for half of that and if you notice a big diference then I'll probably go your route.....

let us know how the tests went...

thanks again...

**Mich's04** · 08-23-2007, 02:58 PM

Originally Posted by chris190

Thanks for the info...
That seems like a good deal for it..... I was also looking into the Baer front callipers and rotors from pfyc.com for about $1100...the 13in rotors but if I can have the entire 05-06 system for half of that and if you notice a big diference then I'll probably go your route.....

let us know how the tests went...

thanks again...

chris190,
Sorry bout the delay in my responce back. The shop has been cranking the past few days.

Well, I'm happy and the with the '05-'06 brake upgrade. I followed the breakin procedures listed by Hawk brakes. Then I took the goat out on a nice open stretch of RT400. We did a few moderate brake applications from 70 mph. I noticed the it took less pedal effort to slow the car down than before. Then I took it up to 125 mph and gave it one hell of a stomp on the pedal. I was impressed needless to say. With the old '04 brakes I was starting to pray for the car to slow down while standing on the pedal.
Now, I know this test was not scientifically preformed, but the "seat of the pants" feel was noticably different. I feel the money for this upgrade was worth it in my book.
So if your thinking about doing it, I say go for it. $700 is cheaper than $1100. Especially if it's mostly street use. Oh and I think those red calipers look so cool sitting behind the wheels.

**chris190** · 08-24-2007, 08:03 AM

Originally Posted by Mich's04

chris190,
Sorry bout the delay in my responce back. The shop has been cranking the past few days.

Well, I'm happy and the with the '05-'06 brake upgrade. I followed the breakin procedures listed by Hawk brakes. Then I took the goat out on a nice open stretch of RT400. We did a few moderate brake applications from 70 mph. I noticed the it took less pedal effort to slow the car down than before. Then I took it up to 125 mph and gave it one hell of a stomp on the pedal. I was impressed needless to say. With the old '04 brakes I was starting to pray for the car to slow down while standing on the pedal.
Now, I know this test was not scientifically preformed, but the "seat of the pants" feel was noticably different. I feel the money for this upgrade was worth it in my book.
So if your thinking about doing it, I say go for it. $700 is cheaper than $1100. Especially if it's mostly street use. Oh and I think those red calipers look so cool sitting behind the wheels.

Cool....Thanks for letting me know....I will most likely go your route with the brakes.....
yea....that's one thing I noticed too that at speeds above 100mph it seems like stock 04 brakes barely work.....

thanks again..

Chris

**traumadog** · 11-23-2008, 08:24 PM

Sorry to dig up an old post - did you ever get this fixed? And are you sure it's not the "oil life" chime, instead of the "low oil" one?

**Mich's04** · 11-24-2008, 07:52 AM

Originally Posted by traumadog

Sorry to dig up an old post - did you ever get this fixed? And are you sure it's not the "oil life" chime, instead of the "low oil" one?

It is the oil level chime sounding off. I know what the problem is now, since I have installed my gauges. (oil/volt)

The oil pump is not developing pressure for a few seconds after startup. It's like the pump looses it's prime when it sits for awhile.

So when the pressure gauge eventually comes off of 0 psi. the chime/check oil level will shut off immediately. Sometimes it would take up to 10 seconds for the pressure to come up and other times it will build instantly.
I will be putting in a new pump along with some other goodies this spring.