Changing front strut mounts

[PatrizioD]

This is probably a newb question, but I'll ask anyway since it should be a fairly straightforward and simple answer that'll help a lot of new owners out...
How hard is it to change out the front strut mounts? I know Sarge did a write-up on Pedderizing the front end bushings, but after reading about some horrible shipping practices*, I feel that I should change out the mounts too. A simple write up would be fantastic, since I cant seem to find one ANYwhere online.


*Seems the GTO's, while being shipped from Australia, were ratcheted down so tight on the boat that it compressed every suspension component to the maximum. All this so they wouldnt shake around, and it was never addressed by the dealers before being sold to the public.

[scauffiel]

I've done it a couple of times, well, I've pulled and swapped the front struts a couple of times as well as just replacing the strut mount and while it's not a difficult gig, it is a bit time consuming. It also helps to have air tools. I wish I had a write-up for ya, every time I've done it, I've meant to take the extra time to take pix and write it up, but it always seems to be one of those, "oh crap, I gotta knock this out so it's ready to drive blah blah blah" and I've not done it. I've found several threads on LS2GTO on it though.

S.

[SilverProject]

Hey man, when I changed out my struts to koni in front of my 05 it went liike this...First you take the wheels off. Unbolt your brake caliper and hang it off to the side(I used a zip tie) You will need to drop the suspension down further then the caliper brake line will let you. Then unbolt the swaybar connector link (good time to see how straight they are since they get bent sometimes in shippping, (line them up with something straight like a roofing square). Theses links bolt to the bottom of the strut body. Unbolt the two bolts connecting the bottom of the front struts, push down the radius rod which should relax now and drop away from the strut, and then work the struts down. When doing my struts I replaced my sways sooo I am not sure of what I needed to disassemble/remove just the strut. But I beleive with these steps you can remove just the strut then the mount is just floating and you can pick it out. Hope this helps.

[PatrizioD]

Awesome. Thanks a lot guys, I think I should probably just Pedderize the whole thing while Im down there.

[SilverProject]

Yeah patrizoid that's a kickass mod...poly bushings rock! Did you look at Pedders (perfect storm ofa) website? I polyed my goat in 2006 with a energy suspension kit and love the firmness but feel a lack in alignment. Most suspension shops would recommend a alignment after new shocks/springs/bushings have been installed. I brought my silverproject to a motorsport shop in jersey after installing my bushings and other suspension bits. Jerseyguy (a wizard by the way) mentioned that he didn't have the rear caliberation tool, and the front end was limited in the alignment. The next couple of years I see the pedders adjustable radius rods come out (the back just recently). Also since 2006 I have spoken to other motorshops specializing in suspensions and my Pontiac dealers both say they do not have the ability to align the rear and are not sure on working on modified alignments. This Winter passed and when in my cave I noticed that the Pedders site has a locator for finding certified Pedders installers, Wrenched Motorsport in Westfield MA is the nearest certified Pedders suspensions installer to dial down our rides. They have worked on over 250 GTOs (big numbers I would say)they say. On Saturday 4/18 I emailed Mr. Anderson from Wreched, inquirying on installing these adjustable bushings and a aggresive alignment. I just thought you and maybe others wondering how and who could dial in our suspensions after geting it beefed up would be interested in this. Sarges thread and others both praise the adjustable propertys of getting the Pedders front radius rods put in. The back in my understanding will also be a great aligning adjustment.

[PatrizioD]

Yeah good looks on that Silver... I've been looking at them for a couple days now... www.wretchedmotorsports.com ...and if my GTO will be able to make the ride from Providence to Westfield, about 95 miles, I'd kill for the GTO Tire rub package; strut mounts, radius rod bushings, strut mount bearing, bump stop front (?), and a Clevis bolt* for $350. I'd like to get a quote on the total cost for installation, because cash is quite short. I fear I might end up doing it all myself though, that should be amusing.... she'll ride like the retarded cart at the supermarket with the one gimpy wheel lol.


*I dont know what a Clevis bolt is, but I cant stop saying it...

[SilverProject]

Thats funny well keep them in mind. I am just going there to put in the adjustable bushings on the radius rods. If you did your own and then brought it there for just a alignment that would be tighter then a retarded cart for sure. I think that would save on the total. They are pricey but are the best around.

[6.0LiterImportEater]

Yea I'm leaning towards the Energy Suspension kit but add the radius rod bushings and strut mounts from Pedders. Thinking that would do me well and save some green on the regular bushings since Pedders is a bit pricey....worth it but I'm limited.

[PartsGedder]

Changing the mount is pretty straight forward. remove the top strut nut with the wheels on the ground and then thread it on a couple of turns. This allows you to reach up once the clevis bolts are removed from the bottom strut mount and take the nut off with one hand while holding the strut with the other. Use pliers to remove the ABS and brake lines from the strut body, they will twist out of the bracket. Remove the nut from the endlink and the sway bar. Remove the caliper bolt and then the clevis bolts, mthen the top nut. Be sure to support the knuckle assy so it doesnt drop too far. The strut and endlink will come out as an assy.

Use a strut compressor to hold the strut and coil and remove the 2nd nut holding the mount and bearing on. replace the mount and bearing. Make sure you reuse the OE washers. Tighten the first OE nut and hang the strut assy from the top using the new nut and tighten a few turns. Re-install the strut, endlink and caliper bolt and fully tighten the top nut. Be sure the mount is seated correctly while tightening the top nut.

[SilverProject]

Hey that is more like it...knew I was letting a few steps sneak bye. Great post PG!

[Sarge]

Changing the mount is pretty straight forward. remove the top strut nut with the wheels on the ground and then thread it on a couple of turns. This allows you to reach up once the clevis bolts are removed from the bottom strut mount and take the nut off with one hand while holding the strut with the other. Use pliers to remove the ABS and brake lines from the strut body, they will twist out of the bracket. Remove the nut from the endlink and the sway bar. Remove the caliper bolt and then the clevis bolts, mthen the top nut. Be sure to support the knuckle assy so it doesnt drop too far. The strut and endlink will come out as an assy.

Use a strut compressor to hold the strut and coil and remove the 2nd nut holding the mount and bearing on. replace the mount and bearing. Make sure you reuse the OE washers. Tighten the first OE nut and hang the strut assy from the top using the new nut and tighten a few turns. Re-install the strut, endlink and caliper bolt and fully tighten the top nut. Be sure the mount is seated correctly while tightening the top nut.

Not bad for a kid
Give me a call and I'll buy you breakfast. We need to get caught up anyway.

[PartsGedder]

Not bad for a kid
Give me a call and I'll buy you breakfast. We need to get caught up anyway.

I'm game for that.