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Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners)

This is a discussion on Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners) within the Convertible forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I figured it out this weekend...first...NEVER ...

  1. #1

    Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners)

    Adding sub to stock vert T/A (Install guide especially for Vert Owners)


    Well, I figured it out this weekend...first...NEVER buy anything electronic from WalMart ESPECIALLY if the product has ever been featured on "Pimp My Ride." learned the hard way buying a Visonic amp / sub combo. What a piece of chit!

    OK...I just bought a pristine 18K mile 2000 WS6 Convertible and didn't like the lack of bass. If you have one of these, you know that both, space and options are limited. The MTX Form woofer thingie doesn't fit convertibles because we have an extra hump for the hydrailic top motor there on the left. I think I've found the best solution to both problems.

    Infinity makes a 10" powered sub called BassLink. It is awesome! With minor modifications of the supplied mountling legs, it fits on the floor of the trunk perfectly nestled next to (and below) the factory 12-disc...and there's plenty of room to access the stupid thing. I 've installed my basslink lying on it's side, facing that you're looking at the control-knob's text upside down. The mod I mentioned earlier in this paragraph consists of simply cutting away the width of the feet. I used a dremel with a rotary file bit.

    You still have to run standard amp-wires...I use an 8-gage (Overkill...the Basslink only calls for 12-gage) Monster Cable kit for mine. Anyway...once that's done, you'll be looking for a way to turn it on remotely. There's a 15-amp fuse in the Lwr Rt of the fuse panel labeled "Radio". Undo the fuse panel bolt and rotate the panel forward (inside the hole) to get access to the thinner wire (cuz this one gets power AFTER being fused).

    Go to Auto Zone and buy some blue wire-splices...the type that clip on and cut through the insulation at the same time. You'll need 2 packs of them.

    Splice into that radio wire and restore the the panel...then run your new, fused wire back to the amp.

    You need 4 more splices for the speaker wires.

    If you have a convertible've probably already noticed that ALL existing diagrams do not apply to you in terms of wire colors, connection locations and sequence. We seem to be on our own. No problem.

    The Basslink has high-level inputs that work quite well. All you have to do is remove the pillar covers (or whatever they're called...they're the things with the rear speaker grills and seat-belts running through them). You'll need a Torx wrench to remove the rear seat latch studs. After the panels are off...remove the 4 bolts from both Lt & Rt Speakers.

    There are 4 wires going into each speaker...locate the blue and green ones...these are the ones you want to splice into.

    Blue with white srtipe is your positive, and Green with black stripe is negative. Same on both sides. The lighter colored wires are for the tweeters, so they're worthless for getting a low freq sig.

    I drilled a hole in the bottom of my ashtray to conceal a lighted (red) rocker switch that goes to the remote amp power (the same wire I ran from the radio fuse). I have learned a new rule that saves me from theft...NEVER thump (advertise) your system within a couple of miles from home. Knowing neighbors are most often the ones who steal your stuff.'re going to want to buy one of those gold-plated GM Battery Side Terminal adapter studs so you'll have a place to run your amp wire. Looks real pretty and works even better.


    Well, I'm 33 and I like a very diverse mix of music...Rap / R&B comprise roughly 25% of my listening...and that Infinity doesn't dissapoint. It's punchy as hell for the other stuff without flopping around like most 12's do. I have that little plastic tray removed so I can hear the bass better...who needs that stupid thing anyway. I think it's just there to remind you not to store anything case you forget, lower the top, and smash your back window.

    Obviously top-up sound is much better than when down...but that's with any woofer you put back there. I think I've heard much better than the "Monsoon" sound system...but it IS pretty good for a factory job.

    Once you've done all this, make sure you keep those left sliders on your EQ down to save your factory speakers. Let the new sub do all the sense beating the crap of the stock (expensive) stuff.

    Except for the Wal Mart error...this went through without a hitch. I'm not gonna say it was knees hurt, and I got tired of explaining to my wife why parts of half my car were lying on the garage floor...but you can't even tell I've touched that thing now...looks like a factory installation. Screw her anyway :-)

    If you don't know how to solder or use shrink-tubing...LEARN. It looks, lasts, and performs so much better than crimping...especially in humid climates.

    Hope I've helped at least one poor asshole in the world...I held that title yesterday.


    P.S. And thanks fo r attempting to help me out yesterday...the info provided was worthless, but it's the thought that counts ;-)

  2. #2
    Orig Regist: 9/98
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    NE Indiana

    1998 Trans Am WS6 'Vert

    Good detail on your job there Josh.

    Check the link in my sig for another sub-in-'vert option.

    Johnny B - '98 "Triple Black" WS6 Convert, M6, All Options, ASC #3030 (1 of 50)
    KBDDSFC, DGM C/F Tonneau, MTI C/F Lid, K&N, HPP-III, 160 T-stat, Pro 5.0
    Link to Firebird Production Breakdowns

  3. #3
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Montreal, CANADA

    2000 CamaroSS convertible

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyBs98WS6Rag
    Good detail on your job there Josh.

    Check the link in my sig for another sub-in-'vert option.
    I got the Johnny sub-box... hell of a great workmanship.
    Got all my equipment, so I should start the installation pretty soon.
    I'll keep you posted on the install, Johnny
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2006

    1998 Pontiac TA

    GM Battery Side Terminal

    Is this a real GM part you can buy, or an aftermarket piece? I need to look into one to fix the hack job I did earlier to make the existing work.

  5. #5
    Junior Member ls1vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    1998 z28 vert

    only problem with the verts are if your sub is in the trunk you can't hear any bass when your tops down. My solution to fix was to add at least 4 feet of speaker wire from my amp to my sub box . Before I put my top down I disconect my sub and move it to the back seat, run my wires from my amp to the sub and put the top down. only takes a min. to move and sounds alot better.

  6. #6
    President of Sixpackistan XLR8TOR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Cygnus X1
    Saturn V Rocket


  7. #7
    Junior Member ls1vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    1998 z28 vert

    Attachment 5153

    Attachment 5154

    Attachment 5155

    Heres my setup, I have a single 12" sub in box (got the box from wal-mart it is cheap and it matches my car) my speaker wires lay flat under the top when its down. If I have my kids in the car I just disconect the box and move it into the trunk( the box comes with the screw type connectors). With the top up it sounds better in the trunk. Before I put the top down, I move the box into the back seat throw the wires around the edge of the seat, hook up my box , and put the top down. Top down with good sound
    Last edited by ls1vert; 06-20-2006 at 03:43 AM.

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