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Thread: Thottle cable issue?
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01-13-2007, 10:12 AM #1
Thottle cable issue?
The mechanic called today said the motors up and running well all but 2 problems... when you ease up on the gas and let go the throttle sticks and stays open at about 1700rpm... hes saying that the stock cable isnt strong enough to work the new 58mm throttlebody and wants to get a stronger spring or something... does this sound familiar or legit to anyone? I thought the TB was supposed to be a bolt on thing.
Other issue is that he says there is a pop sometimes, he thinks its in the intake or so and he says it usually means there is a problem with the spark plugs or ignition system... like they arent rated enough to ignite the new mixture. i purchased the NGK TR6 plugs, thats all that was recommended. do i need a new coil or something now too?
i'm loosing alot of time now on this fucking project on stupid shit like this and i'm sure hes going to charge me for all the tinkering time which i'm sure is raking up now
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01-13-2007, 02:33 PM #2
[QUOTE=grandkodiak;547995]The mechanic called today said the motors up and running well all but 2 problems... when you ease up on the gas and let go the throttle sticks and stays open at about 1700rpm... hes saying that the stock cable isnt strong enough to work the new 58mm throttlebody and wants to get a stronger spring or something... does this sound familiar or legit to anyone? I thought the TB was supposed to be a bolt on thing.
the only spring is the one on the TB. what brand is it? i have never heard of anyone having an issue with the throttle staying open due to the spring on the TB. it might actually be binding in the bores or somewhere else.
Other issue is that he says there is a pop sometimes, he thinks its in the intake or so and he says it usually means there is a problem with the spark plugs or ignition system... like they arent rated enough to ignite the new mixture. i purchased the NGK TR6 plugs, thats all that was recommended. do i need a new coil or something now too?
wonder what he gapped the plugs at? you normally don't hear of a lt1 burping in the intake unless nitrous is in use and the fuel isn't staying mixed. is he sure it is coming from the intake? what kind of exhaust is on the car from the heads back?
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01-13-2007, 06:42 PM #3
its a holly 58mm throttlebody...
the exhuast back is slp shortube headers with emissions connections, stock y pipe with dual cats and borla adjustable exhuast running open
I know the gap in the plugs are .035 as per thier website but thats what i was told to get, 1 heat range colder then stock too since i went with the impala gaskets which increased the compresison to 11.2:1
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01-13-2007, 06:57 PM #4
any type of tune in the car yet? and also didn't you change injectors aswell?
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01-14-2007, 12:14 AM #5
Your mechanic just hasnt dealt with this issue before, or is a retard, or both. Most people that bolt on Holley TBs have this issue. I've seen it myself. It isnt being held open via any mechanical fault. It's the TPS that is holding the throttle open. You need to go in through the PCM and re-adjust everything. It's just how the Holley is designed that makes that happen. Most people dont know that, and just put a double return spring on there to overpower the TPS.Last edited by 5.0THIS; 01-14-2007 at 12:21 AM.
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01-14-2007, 06:40 AM #6
wow never knew holley TB's were such a piece of shit.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ghlight=holley
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01-14-2007, 09:38 AM #7
Do I need to send the pcm back to pcmforless or is this something the mechanic should be able to do?
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01-14-2007, 02:36 PM #8
Just ditch the holley, you dont need it anyway
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01-14-2007, 04:32 PM #9
Cant return it, dont feel like selling it, it is what it is. Is it a fix the mechanic should be able to do? Or will his spring fix work?
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01-14-2007, 04:46 PM #10
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01-14-2007, 05:15 PM #11
Well, most people dont actually take the time to fix it correctly, and just up the spring pressure to compensate, so why not, go ahead. IMO, sell that POS while you're still ahead of the game and save yourself alot of trouble. It isnt gaining you anything, and it's going to cost you more to fix it right then it would to just sell it.
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01-14-2007, 05:50 PM #12
yea i read it, i dont have any idle problems as far as i know, just them sticking open. i'll ask tomorrow morning when the mech gets back at it.
as far as a tune its a mail order pcmforless and i did tell him every detail, including the 58mm tb plan.
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01-14-2007, 05:55 PM #13
in that link look for another link to another site. it covers the sticking issue, somewhat.
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01-14-2007, 06:32 PM #14
oh the hole thing? I dont know if the one i bought had it or not, only looked at it for a few seconds, but i wouldnt have known to look for that anyway... i'll check tomorrow morning...
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01-14-2007, 06:59 PM #15
I agree with Andy. This is a prevalent issue with the Holley 58mm TB. I did my research when I was looking for an aftermarket TB. I settled for the Holley 52mm and it worked flawlessly for me, plus, even with my N/A 383 Stroker and a big cam, I felt the 58mm was still an overkill.
I later sold my Holley 52mm TB and bought the ASM 54mm TB and I really liked it althought, I must say that the Holley 52mm seemed to produce a much quicker rev response.2007 Audi RS 4
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