Hooker Headers

**ls1_02** · 01-20-2010, 10:53 AM

I bought a pair of LT Hooker headers off craigslist the ports look bigger and do not look "D" shaped like the exhaust manifolds do....the guy said they were for an lt1....anyone know if that is normal fitment for aftermarket headers?

**bbadassta96** · 01-20-2010, 10:56 AM

ya i bought a pair brand new from paceseter for my 96 and the header tubes were larger than the exhaust ports on the heads and the stock manifolds

**ls1_02** · 01-21-2010, 04:34 AM

Originally Posted by bbadassta96

ya i bought a pair brand new from paceseter for my 96 and the header tubes were larger than the exhaust ports on the heads and the stock manifolds

I knew the primaries would be larger but I thought the ports would match up...guess not I installed the driverside yesterday and it seems to fit nicely.... do u know if the front primary which is a slip-in style into the collector on the driverside needs any thing put in the joint to keep leaks from occuring

**FORD RECOVERY EXPERT** · 01-21-2010, 07:55 PM

^^ Mine didnt.

**JaycenK** · 01-21-2010, 08:08 PM

it should be fine. My LPP's are square and I have no leaks on the D port heads

**ls1_02** · 01-21-2010, 08:11 PM

Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT

^^ Mine didnt.

thanks.... tonight we finally got the passenger side header on... what a pita!!! did you have less than a 1/4 inch clearance between the crossmember and the passenger header near the lower control arm??? looks like i have to relocate a couple of electrical harnesses too.... I hope this headache is worth it!!! thanks again for your help.

**ls1_02** · 01-21-2010, 08:15 PM

[QUOTE=JaycenK;2212993]it should be fine. My LPP's are square and I have no leaks on the D port heads[/Q

cool.... i guess all is well then! did you have any clearance issues?? see my above post for deatails. thanks

**JaycenK** · 01-24-2010, 09:41 AM

[quote=ls1_02;2213005]

Originally Posted by JaycenK

it should be fine. My LPP's are square and I have no leaks on the D port heads[/Q

cool.... i guess all is well then! did you have any clearance issues?? see my above post for deatails. thanks

Before you do that you should really notch the crossmember!!! Headers have a tendancy to relax. Steel not as much as stainless but it will do it. Mine did it and I ended up having to drop them out and notch both sides so just go ahead and do it.

**JaycenK** · 01-24-2010, 09:42 AM

Oh and by the way IT IS SO WORTH IT!!! Car will have new life, and the torque is out standing

**ls1_02** · 01-24-2010, 07:07 PM

[quote=JaycenK;2215256]

Originally Posted by ls1_02

Before you do that you should really notch the crossmember!!! Headers have a tendancy to relax. Steel not as much as stainless but it will do it. Mine did it and I ended up having to drop them out and notch both sides so just go ahead and do it.

can it be notched with the headers on with a torch? I am debating catback or true duals an suggestions??

**JaycenK** · 01-25-2010, 11:23 AM

I tried it with a torch on the driver side and it heated the header so hot I said F it and pulled them and notched them with out it. I even tried to use a dremel and very small cutting wheel but that to didn't work to well.
Are you running cats? I run a LM2 with no cats and longtubes and off road Y. Little raspy. most guys without cats like chambered exhaust for daily driving. Really a personal choice thing. My likes may be different

**ls1_02** · 01-25-2010, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by JaycenK

I tried it with a torch on the driver side and it heated the header so hot I said F it and pulled them and notched them with out it. I even tried to use a dremel and very small cutting wheel but that to didn't work to well.
Are you running cats? I run a LM2 with no cats and longtubes and off road Y. Little raspy. most guys without cats like chambered exhaust for daily driving. Really a personal choice thing. My likes may be different

I had a 3" y pipe fabbed and installed... my car seems quieterwith headers than it was with exhaust manifolds....guess i need to run tru duals??? seems more responsive though. i m going to wait on notching the crossmember to see how it feels on the road.... I have a question.... when I was installing the egr block off plate I broke the oil pressure sending unit....installed a new one now my car gets up to about 45-50 psi when cold but when at operating temp it idles at 0 and when I rev it up it only gets up to about 20-30 psi.....is this a spun bearing or is it possibly a sensor issue?? my oil pressure was higher than this before.... any other suggestions???

**JaycenK** · 01-25-2010, 08:39 PM

take it out and put a mechanical gage on it to verify. Only way to be sure. Thats the cam I belive. It should be louder when you are over 1/4 throtle and revs. By the way you can get an lt4 knock modual to put in the PCM. When you start adding headers and other internal engine mods you can get what are know as false knocks. This is when extra noise generated by these componets causes the lt1 knock to read them as engine knock when they are not. The pcm then pulls timing to reduce them. If you notice any fall off under WOT you may be getting fals knocks. Dose not happen to everyone, infact there are alot of people running big cams and full roller setups that have stock knocks but it is an easy fix if you have those problems.

**ls1_02** · 01-26-2010, 03:21 AM

Originally Posted by JaycenK

take it out and put a mechanical gage on it to verify. Only way to be sure. Thats the cam I belive. It should be louder when you are over 1/4 throtle and revs. By the way you can get an lt4 knock modual to put in the PCM. When you start adding headers and other internal engine mods you can get what are know as false knocks. This is when extra noise generated by these componets causes the lt1 knock to read them as engine knock when they are not. The pcm then pulls timing to reduce them. If you notice any fall off under WOT you may be getting fals knocks. Dose not happen to everyone, infact there are alot of people running big cams and full roller setups that have stock knocks but it is an easy fix if you have those problems.

thanks I'll try that, I hope its nothing major

**JaycenK** · 01-26-2010, 07:44 AM

I had the same problem. I can't tell you for sure what it is but it seems to be the MO of all the camaro and firebirds in these years. Same thing happend to my wifes 94 3.4L V6. Most say it is the sending unit but the LT1's have a slight problem with oiling one of the mains for some reason but it usually isn't bad enough to show any problems untill about 100k +. My 97 is doing that right now but I have a knock just after start up that goes away after it warms all the way up. I'm changing the motor in a week or two with a 383 so after that is done I can look at the old one and find out what was going on.

**ls1_02** · 02-02-2010, 05:04 AM

Originally Posted by JaycenK

take it out and put a mechanical gage on it to verify. Only way to be sure. Thats the cam I belive. It should be louder when you are over 1/4 throtle and revs. By the way you can get an lt4 knock modual to put in the PCM. When you start adding headers and other internal engine mods you can get what are know as false knocks. This is when extra noise generated by these componets causes the lt1 knock to read them as engine knock when they are not. The pcm then pulls timing to reduce them. If you notice any fall off under WOT you may be getting fals knocks. Dose not happen to everyone, infact there are alot of people running big cams and full roller setups that have stock knocks but it is an easy fix if you have those problems.

update----I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge ---60psi cold...warm Idle about 10psi and warm operational 40-45psi.... I think it was a faulty electrical sending unit..... I do have one concern.... at wot from low range the pressure will drop from 45psi to 42psi when I reach higher rpms... when I just roll in to it the psi maintains 45 psi through the entire range.... I know its still good pressure is this something to be concerned with??