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Finally after all the work , ITS RUNNING!?!?

This is a discussion on Finally after all the work , ITS RUNNING!?!? within the LT1 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Ok after 2 weeks i finally got my 96 TA fixed ,it was such a pain in the ass gettin ...

  1. #1
    Import Killer camarostripes96's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006

    1996 Trans am

    Finally after all the work , ITS RUNNING!?!?

    Ok after 2 weeks i finally got my 96 TA fixed ,it was such a pain in the ass gettin it fixed heres what happened.....2 weeks ago on a mondy i sprayed my LT1 down at the car was , got in it to start it and it would start just kept turing over for about 2 mins, well it finally started and i drove about 10 miles, stopped and got gas and drove about 2 more miles, and stopped at the busiest intersection right at 5:00pm when it was packed and i was the first car in line right b4 a bridge and traffic was backed up about 500 yards...and i was sitting at the red light and my TA just died and i could get it started back up just kept turning over, well finally got it off the road and messed with it for about 1 hour, so finally had to get it towed back home...did some research and everyone said it was my opti spark, so i tested my coil by grabbing the wire and it shocked the hell outta me, which means my coil is still good and the distributor right? your pcm fires your distributor,distributor fires the coil, and coil fires the rotor and rotor fires spark plug, well coil was still good so that meant distributor was still good , so it could only be cap and rotor, so i bought new cap and rotor and spent 2 days taking the vaccumm motor , coil and icm , and bracket , water pump, and harmonic balancer, and finally got to the opti, well what took so long was finding the tool to take the cap and rotor off, which is a torx socket, E4 & T8, called ALL the part stores and 11 other people and couldnt find anyone finally had to track the snap on truck down, and got them off of him, which was $36 for 2 litttle tiny sockets..., well finally got the cap and rotor changed out which was hard, and put everything back on , and filled up radiator and went to start it and it still would crank, so i had no clue but to start replacing things till i found the problem. So i took the coil and icm to get tested at part store and they could only test icm , and no one could test the coil, and the icm tested good, so i just went ahead and bought the coil, and came home and put the icm (ignition control module)and the new coil back on , and the son of a bitch started right up (no counting the mis fires from the fouled spark plugs from turning it over so much) and all along it was the damn coil back, and like i said before the coil had fire, but that doesnt mean its working i found out, the coil has to put out like aroung 50,000 volts or something like that to start the engine, well it could be halfway out and only putting out 25,000 or 30,000 volts, which made me think it was still good so thats why i replaced the cap and rotor, but no folks it was the coil all along, I WAS MADDER THAN HELL !!!! but then it took another day to put change out and put in NGK TR55 spark plugs , and now she runs like a BEAST !!!!!! Just thought i would fill yall in on this and let u know my experience!!

  2. #2
    Member Chad97z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Dallas / Irving
    wow.. what a fiasco. but isn't that how it is on these cars? Congrats on getting it isolated and fixed. I learned back in the late 80's, when I took my IROC to the car wash, you don't energize all the electronic components under the hood right after dowsing them with water. I fried my TPS switch back then. But at that time, it was fun to fix. And from then on I started learning how to work on cars. Anyways, what I do when I clean my engine is use foil to cover electrical components and then clean it with cleaners at home, after you warm the engine. So then, after you clean it, the water will evaporate and you have time to let it sit and dry.

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