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Thread: 383 build?
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08-02-2008, 09:12 PM #1
383 build?
I am hearing that an alternative to going with 383 stroker.
Most common way is to of course put in the bigger 400 crank into a 350.
But I also heard it is cheaper and stronger (eagle kit) to cut down the stock crank in an LT1 and put in longer rods along with doing the rest of the machine work on the block.
Anyone else do this?
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08-03-2008, 06:40 AM #2
is doing a regular carb'd 383 stroker a possibility.
honestly, if I was gonna put together a new motor, I would do a 1st gen small block. super easy to find parts for. and the carb will get rid of a TON of wiring.
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08-04-2008, 10:46 AM #3
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08-06-2008, 01:48 PM #4
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always dirty- 2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS
They make stroker cranks for the 350 block that already have turned down mains. You could offset grind the rod journals but this will give you min stroke increase. They usually do this to other engines to use a chevy rod for more selection. The longer rods give you a better rod angle.
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08-06-2008, 10:13 PM #5
I just want to know if its possible to decrease crank size and increase rod size and still come out with a 383? lol
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08-07-2008, 09:34 AM #6
no.
you need to lengthen the stoke to 3.75
no, you need a different crank. you just cant mill down the journals......#1. your not gonna see a big improvement. #2. your losing a hell of alot of durability
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08-07-2008, 09:36 AM #7
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No.
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08-15-2008, 08:13 PM #8
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I just finished my 383 and I used the eagle rotating assembly and it works well. I would how ever suggest you do your home work. The reason I say this the LT1 stocker needs alot of stuff to make it right. I will give you a run down of what I have done so far and still working on it. 1. Eagle Rotating Assembly (695.00) Includes Rods, Crank, Pistons (I would upgrade to a forged piston to be safe though just double the price for a good set) 2. Comp Cam 584/579 lift 3. Comp Beehive Springs (Same as LS1) 4. Comp 1.6 roller rockers 5. Keyed Crank hub (Trust me buy this as you go) 6. Fully Ported and Polished Stock heads (206/194 valves) Gotta have them big 7. 42 lb injectors 8. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator 9. Twin 58mm TB (I bought a BBK) 10. MSD-6AL with Blaster Coil 11. Pace Setter Long Tube Headers 12. Custom Y pipe 3 inch 13. Flomaster 44 (I wouldn't do this again but get a good Muffler 14. New Trans (The Motor will eat the factory set up) I can go into details of what was needed to get it to hold if interested. 15. 3500 TCI stall (anything smaller you are wasting your time trust me) 16. sub frame connectors ( The car will twist) 17. MSD Dist and with new cap and rotor (The Orginal one Sucks after 6500 rpms) 18. 373 gears in the rear from the 342's but I had to put in a 12 bolt rear broke two of factory ones 19. Custom Computer Tune and Dyno Time (Mail Orders will not get the job done) 10 hrs on the dyno so far and still getting HP and Torq out of it. 20. New Intake (You can use the factory one as long as you port and match to the heads to even the flow) 21. Weld the Pick up tube on the oil pump ( Even with the internal bal, set up it will come off) 22. The list goes on and on, if you have about 10 grand to throw away to do the Lt1 383 I say it is worth it, but if not buy a ls1 and put a pro charger on it and get it tuned and you will run pretty well. As for me I have both and I would not ever give up the LT1 but it is costly if don't know what you are getting into......
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08-16-2008, 08:19 AM #9
Ok I looked into this a little bit more.
The 383 is suppose to be a 400 block with 5.7 rods right?
and of course the block being bored out .30 over
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08-16-2008, 08:29 AM #10
other way around
4.030 bore, and a 3.75 stoke.
you use the crank from a 400. the stock 350 stroke is 3.48
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08-16-2008, 09:40 PM #11
Does rod size make any difference in stroke?
I see some people are using 5.7 and others are using the 6.0
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08-18-2008, 02:22 PM #12
depends on piston. it will change your compression hieght
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08-18-2008, 02:37 PM #13
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