What do you think my car is worth?

[cylpimp]

Silver M6 2002 Trans Am WS6
14k on the car 3k on motor
408ci Stroker Motor (engine dyno 595/ 505rwhp)
150 NOS Shot
MTI Clear Air Lid
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Magnaflow Catback Exhaust
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace
Wings West Front Air Dam
Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs
Spohn Lower Control Arms
Spohn SubFrame Connectors
Spohn Relocation Brackets
CCW 19x10 (295) Pierelli's in front, 19x11 (305) in back
Slotted Rotors

[MIWS62001]

Pix might help.

[cylpimp]

See if this works: http://www.caughtyalookin.com/index....id=12&Itemid=8

Just getting some ideas, not sure if Id sell it or not, just frustrated more than anything right now. Just started ticking yesterday, sounds like a lifter and I've had pretty bad luck with my cars recently. So see what you guys think.


thanks

eddie

[bguns10]

nice car! no idea what it would be worth?? where did you get those rims and how much were they??

[boobs]

I give you figh dolla..

[third_shift|studios]

OMG!!! DON'T SELL THAT! wtf...the thing looks incredible, and it sounds like you really spent the money correctly! but if you were seriuos, i'd say abotu $28-35K considering its year/milage/condition/mods!

[predator]

prolly wont get more than ohhhhhh $25k for it... which i have to say its worth more thatn that, but you would have to find someone that really likes the car... you could always list it hi and try to find someont that you can sucker (not really the right term for trying to get some of your cash back)...

i could be totally off on this, but modded cars dont sell worth a crap uless someone wants THAT car.. most ppl are afraid you are selling it becasue you broke something... thats just how it goes...

those rims would look NICE on my vette... and a set of vette rims would really set off the blue stripe... HINT HINT...

-me

[cylpimp]

I ordered them direct from CCW and they cost me $4010 shipped. I agree on the modded cars, but for once I could say its never been raced. I took it to the track once and spun terribly off the line and ran a 12.3@117 with a 2.7 60ft. I didnt want to break anything, since the motor only had 250 miles at that point so I quit. I love the car but just frustrated because I have such shitty luck with cars. I prolly wouldnt get what its worth and would always regret selling it. Thanks for the compliments. Any advice for lifter replacement or a ball park for cost?

thanks
eddie

[predator]

ahhh soo something is wrong... thats y you are selling it... and sorry cant help you...

-me

[BIGRED Z]

Unfortunately, mods do not add value to your car unless to a specific buyer (or a very narrow market).

To the average non F-body enthusiast, it takes value away because they think it's been beefed up and beat to death at the track.

Most F-bod enthusiasts mod for love, not money, because you'll never recoup what you put into it.

To find out the value, blue book it in low retail for NADA (because you mentioned something is wrong so it needs mechanical work) or fair condition in Kelley blue book. That's about all you can expect, mods or not.

Lori

[third_shift|studios]

lifter replacement....oh god! i can give you the whole write up....

[third_shift|studios]

cool, found it...This would normally cost about $1200-$1500 from a shop, but if you do it all yourself, it'll cost about 2 days and $10 for a new lifter. Let me know if you have any questions.

1) tear down to expose the valve train by removing coil packs/valve covers. All electronic connections and hoses can be un plugged and moved out of the way.

2) giggle, or better, "rock" each rocker arm. There is minimal play in each, mainly side-to-side, rocking them should be very stiff though. The one(s) that rattle(s) the most will be a "problem spot."

3) just to ensure the others are cheked, "Fake-start" the car by just twisting the key on/off in a fast motion DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!! you just want to get that first "pop" of the engine then kill it. This will move all the valves a bit without sending oil through the whole engine. Repeat step 2.

4) remove the "problem-spot" rocker and rod. Wipe off the rod and roll it on a piece of glass or other perfectly flat service. If the rod oscilated while rolling-you're in luck, buy a new 7.400 inch rod.

5)If it rolled smoothly, put it back in and do a "rocker-or-lifter" test by putting a "non-problem spot" rocker in place of the "problem-spot" rocker. If the "non-problem" rocker shifts wildly, then you know you have to dig further and replace the lifter. If it doesn't shift wildly, then the original rocker from that spot is broken.

6) To get to the lifter: remove the air intake/manifold cover. BE WEARY OF THE DELICATE "OIL-PRESSURE SENDING UNIT" JUST TO THE BACK-RIGHT OF THE MANIFOLD!!! Also, there are a few electrical connections and hoses back there. I believe there are 10 screws on the top of the manifold-you can unbolt/remove the front 6, the back 4 are too-long to remove, just unscrew them and leave them there. After all hoses and electricals are out of the way-we left the gas line connected, it wasn't a big problem-lift up on the manifold and begin to pull it forward SLOWLY. Inspect any snags that stop you so that you don't rip anything out. Be careful-that's all i can say, and take a breather if you get frustrated.

7) remove the smog pump, the valve train, oil dip [unbolt from manifold then yank it really hard] the exhaust manifold, and header. For ease, remove the bottom header bolts first-some are long, some are short, make a diagram of which went where.

8) Inspect the lifter(s) from the "problem spot(s)." In a side-by-side comparison a broken lifter will pour oil out and have a deeped indentation where the push-rod seats.

Good luck, this is a very exhausting/frustrating process that can be done with a lot of patience. DON'T FORGET: you will need to replace the header bolts and the head-gasket with new ones b/c they are one-time use items.

[Scorch]

I'd say go by what you feel you want out of it. Although that doesn't necessarily mean that someone is willing to pay that amount. If you're looking to sell it, try ebay. That way more people have view on your car. Good looking car IMO and should be worth more than
$22k. And that's minimal.

[Hotrod]

The car is awesome looking, the problem is that it's so heavily modded but not to the point where you'd be selling it as strickly a trailered drag car. If I were in the market I'd be afraid it's been ragged out. And if I was an interested buyer and you told me you only raced it once, I'd tell you that your full of shit and people don't put that stuff in their cars cause they can't find anything better to do with their money.

Now maybe you did only race it once but people are going to always assume it's ragged out when you mention performance parts. I'd keep it, fix the lifter, break in the motor and run the hell out of it!

[predator]

werd hot rod... werd...

[sid2387]

keep the car by all means dude. thas is one bad ass ride. What kinda gas milage do you get with the 408 stroker kit if you dont mind me askin? im curious b/c im about to sell my turck "gets 3 miles to the gallon" w/ a 500 hp 383 stroker, and im goint to by a ta and was curious to know the gas millage with that motor set up. What rear end gear are you running too?

[wesTXwitesnake05]

that front bumper looks like it's a different shade of silver, has the car been in any accedents? i'd say 23k b/c of the mileage and mods but i'll trade ya straight up, your car for mine! lol j/k forreal tho it all depends on what you want for it. i got mine for 19 and probably isnt worth more than 18k but i wouldnt take any less than 20 cuz thats my bitch! haha i agree with hotrod too, my car had some things done to it when i got it and i figured it had been ragged on pretty hard so i bought a bumper to bumper warranty from the dealer. which i regret b/c i have closet full of go fast parts and 2 1/2 years left on the warranty!