What do you think?

[TA98]

This is a list of the mods im doing in the next two or three weeks. Tell me if you think i should change anything.

UMI 3 point sfc's
BMR tunnel brace
BMR strut tower brace
BMR control arms
Strano Springs or Eibach Drag Launch Springs(but im worried about how they will act on the street)
Koni or KYB shocks

TSP Full length headers
TSP catless y-pipe
Magnaflow catback

3.73 gears

Tune by Frost

The only mods i have thus far are SLP air box lid, MSD wires and a shift kit. I ran a 13.89 when it was 95 degrees and humid as hell. When i pulled up to the lights the car was at a sizzling 210 degrees. I have a fan switch so i can kick the fans on in the staging lanes and cool it down now but at the time i did not have it on. What kind of time do you think i could see with this set up and a set of drag radials? In Super Chevy they ran a 13.55 with a LS1 Camaro and after springs, sfc's, sway bars, shocks, and a strut tower brace they ran a 13.14 on a stock powered car.

[SilverSteen25]

List looks good just the way it is, let us know what you run in the 1/4 after doing all that and breaking in ur new gears

[StuntmanMike]

Some people think the STB is a waste of money, and others don't. Personally I think it probably is more of an appearance mod.

As far as the tunnel brace, this came up on LS1Tech and Strano said it was a waste of money.

Seems like you're building a drag car anyway, so I don't see why you'd need these two items in the first place.

[TA98]

The only reason i was looking to get the STB and Tunnel Brace was to reduce chassis flex and twist although i know this is the sole reason for the SFC's

[Y2KPewterSS]

Avoid KYBs, do yourself a favor and go with Konis.

[Customta98]

Have you thought about getting a tourq arm or drive shaft safty loop (the only reason why I say the safty loop is because if your u-joint breaks you wont like what it dose to your exhaust and underbody it could save you a lot of money down the road and its just a little safer) Also have you looked at QA1 shocks they are really nice and can help your 1/4 mile too here read this article from GMHitech it could take 3 10th's off your 1/4mile

[TA98]

I have thought about the QA1's but theyre a little pricy for me right now. i know how much better they can be but 200 a shock is a little high for a daily driver

[Customta98]

yeah I here ya there

[TA98]

I ordered my gears and SFC's last night and i ended up going with the BMR two point boxed type instead of the 3 point umi. i felt those were overkill.

[Customta98]

I ordered my gears and SFC's last night and i ended up going with the BMR two point boxed type instead of the 3 point umi. i felt those were overkill.

good choice I have put a lot of BMR chassis & suspension on my car and have never had any problems. By the way what gears did you go with and are the SFC's bolt in or weld in?

[TA98]

Richmond gears. The more expensive ones. And the weld in SFC's. Im switching to the boxed BMR control arms. Im hoping to get those early next week

[Customta98]

Richmond gears. The more expensive ones. And the weld in SFC's. Im switching to the boxed BMR control arms. Im hoping to get those early next week

Yeah I got the richmond gears a couple of years ago 4.10's they work nice I just broke mine tho. So I'm gonna go back down to 3.73's mainly for top end what size ring and pinion gears are you going with?

[TA98]

theyre 3.73's. Thats all im doing to this rear end though. and im gonna try and tighten the clutches in the Posi unit. Id rather save the money to buy a 12 bolt or 9 inch rear.