Tunnel Brace

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 03:16 PM

After installing LT and Y-pipe my exhaust was resting on the factory tunnel brace (or as it is really a stamped piece of metal). I have subframe connectors currently on the car and the tunnel brace shares the same bolt holes as the subframe connectors but the tunnel brace connects the driver side with the passenger side. So my question is does the tunnel brace do much at all, and can I just take it off so my exhaust does not rest on it of rattle when going over a rough road?

I talked to someone that does the installs of exhaust and he said that they usually just get rid of those tunnel braces as they do not do much anyways.

Please advise..should I just remove it or try and buy and aftermarket and hope it has enough clearance.

Chad

**blackbird0230** · 09-10-2010, 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by Smokin2000

After installing LT and Y-pipe my exhaust was resting on the factory tunnel brace (or as it is really a stamped piece of metal). I have subframe connectors currently on the car and the tunnel brace shares the same bolt holes as the subframe connectors but the tunnel brace connects the driver side with the passenger side. So my question is does the tunnel brace do much at all, and can I just take it off so my exhaust does not rest on it of rattle when going over a rough road?

I talked to someone that does the installs of exhaust and he said that they usually just get rid of those tunnel braces as they do not do much anyways.

Please advise..should I just remove it or try and buy and aftermarket and hope it has enough clearance.

Chad

I had the same problem only I bought an aftermarket tunnel brace and with texas speeds ory it still wouldn't fit so since I have been running without mine for probably 6 months, I'm gonna say you'll be fine. Plus u have sfc's and are obviously in a better position than I am.

But if you wanna run the stock one but it hits, I'd suggest buying a gel mousepad (for the computer) and placing it between the tunnel brace and exhaust. That way it won't bang. I lost one of my hangers and temporarily am using this fix until I have some time to get a real one. Please note that that location at the y will be considerably hotter than where mine is so I cannot say what will happen with the mouse pad. Otherwise If you want an aftermarket one. I have a powdercoated spohn tunnel brace for sale since I'm not able to run it. Let me know. Personally I'd run the temporary fix or not at all.

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 05:36 PM

Thanks for the feedback.

**0rion** · 09-10-2010, 05:41 PM

when I did my exhaust years and years ago I had that problem but was able to add some washers between the brace and the floorpan to get the clearance needed. Might try that. I ran without it for quite a while at one point but it does add some rigidity there so if you can run it all do so. It will also keep your car from doing the pole vault ( or at least trying too) if you lost a front u-joint.

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2010, 05:53 PM

+1 Just space it down around 1/4" or so. It shouldn't take much to give your the clearance you need. Another option is your slip joint in the exhaust back by the axle (if you have a catback). You may be able to raise your mid-pipe a bit there to also gain clearance. If it is stock exhaust, you can cut a small section out and install a band clamp to achieve the same affect.

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 06:03 PM

Yeah I did the spacer and that works great until you get on a rough road, the exhaust must have just enough play to bounce off the tunnel brace. I think I need to find a way to tighten my exhaust up or raise it up some.

Thanks for the tips I will give them a try.

Chad

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 06:05 PM

Forgot to mention that I get to replace my fuel pump so I have to take my exhaust apart anyways. Thought I would get some advice on the tunnel brace before I did the pump. Two birds with one stone.

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2010, 06:07 PM

There is an aftermarket bracket that can be added to the Y-pipe to stiffen the exhaust up and keep it from rattling against the body. Cutlass has posted pics of it before in a thread -- I'll see if I can find it. Seems like that would help with your problem as well.

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2010, 06:15 PM

Here it is: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...9&postcount=33

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 06:20 PM

That is exactly what I need, any idea on where one could find this?

Thanks for the help.

Chad

**pajeff02** · 09-10-2010, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by Smokin2000

That is exactly what I need, any idea on where one could find this?

Thanks for the help.

Chad

I ended up being ok after tweaking my installation a bit, so I never ordered one. Cutlass will eventually see this and will post up where he found it.

**Smokin2000** · 09-10-2010, 06:28 PM

I look forward to finding this clamp. At least I know there is a solution out there.

**blackbird0230** · 09-10-2010, 11:33 PM

I wish I had a solution. I would need about a 2" spacer. freakin tsp ory messed my whole setup, My option right now is to take down the y that I got and have a custom one made. and at that point I think i will change the slip fit headers to ones with the gaskets. Hate my setup right now for looks and sound (exhaust leak) but the power shows enough for me to keep it on for now.

**0rion** · 09-11-2010, 01:03 AM

twisting the over the axle pipe will determine a lot of your clearance up front. You can gain or lose clearance by simply twisting that pipe. That's what I did for a permanent fix on mine.

**pajeff02** · 09-11-2010, 04:32 AM

Originally Posted by blackbird0230

I wish I had a solution. I would need about a 2" spacer. freakin tsp ory messed my whole setup, My option right now is to take down the y that I got and have a custom one made. and at that point I think i will change the slip fit headers to ones with the gaskets. Hate my setup right now for looks and sound (exhaust leak) but the power shows enough for me to keep it on for now.

How about some pics?

**sjgreen6** · 09-12-2010, 09:48 AM

I went direct with Cutlass and he was good enough to provide me the name of the product. Do a google on "Mufflex LS1 F-Body Y-Pipe Bump Stop Hanger" and you should get several vendors. I was surprised to find this thing was specifically designed for our Y pipe problem. Cost was about $40 but looks like I'll be ordering one soon.

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Here it is: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...9&postcount=33

**RyanJM** · 09-12-2010, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by Smokin2000

That is exactly what I need, any idea on where one could find this?

Thanks for the help.

Chad

I have one on my car I ordered from WS6store.com. Was the 1st place I found one and it helped it alot on my car.

**Smokin2000** · 09-12-2010, 02:50 PM

Thanks for the info. I have purchased many items from WS6store.com so I will give them a call.

Chad

**bbuikema** · 09-12-2010, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by blackbird0230

I wish I had a solution. I would need about a 2" spacer. freakin tsp ory messed my whole setup, My option right now is to take down the y that I got and have a custom one made. and at that point I think i will change the slip fit headers to ones with the gaskets. Hate my setup right now for looks and sound (exhaust leak) but the power shows enough for me to keep it on for now.

I had the same problem after putting my kooks headers and ORY. There was no way the factory brace could even have spacers added to clear it. I went with the UMI tunnel brace mounted torque are which has a pretty beefy tunnel brace. I have a convertible so I didn't want to risk not having some extra support under there.

**sjgreen6** · 09-13-2010, 05:19 PM

Further note on this part, there are two different sizes a 3 inch and a 2.5 inch, not all of the parts places carry both so be sure you get the right one for your Y pipe!

Originally Posted by sjgreen6

I went direct with Cutlass and he was good enough to provide me the name of the product. Do a google on "Mufflex LS1 F-Body Y-Pipe Bump Stop Hanger" and you should get several vendors. I was surprised to find this thing was specifically designed for our Y pipe problem. Cost was about $40 but looks like I'll be ordering one soon.