Trying to pick up a decent amount of power in my ws6 (m6)

**ScottWernWS6** · 01-07-2012, 09:42 AM

A whiles back i got spanked by the new 5.0 and i want revenge, granted im not all that experienced, that day was the first time i had been to the track and with my ws6 with bolt ons(volant cai, slp headers, flowmaster 80s) i ran a best of 13.373@ 108(my buddy told me my reaction time was disgustingly terrible lol)
I was thinking of doing cam/head or some form of forced induction but want to do whatever is most cost efficient. Any ideas?

**REVNORR82** · 01-07-2012, 09:45 AM

Cam heads intake gears and woop some 5.0 ass.

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**SouthernBornThriller** · 01-07-2012, 10:32 AM

Focus on getting the car to able to handle the power its got before you dive into the motor.

1. 9" or 12 bolt rear end with gears. - Should be done ASAP if you're taking the car to the track. Those 10-bolts don't hold up to many hard launches, even on stock power and street tires.

2. Subframe connectors. - Inexpensive and easy mod that makes a world of difference in how the car feels. Not to mention it'll reduce the chances of leaky t-tops.

3. Track wheels (prostars are popular) and slicks.

4. New shifter (love my pro 5.0) and a better clutch if you have a manual./Stall if you have an auto.

5. Better shocks, springs, etc. Finish out upgrading your suspension.

That should definitely close the gap between the two cars, and make your car able to handle plenty of track time. Then you just need to get some practice in for your reaction time.

After that's all said and done and you're at least a "good" driver, you can start looking at power adders, heads/cam packages, etc.

**Knight** · 01-07-2012, 10:53 AM

^Agree. Building a solid drivetrain is the best way to start.

Also, look into a full length torque arm, or if you are planning on doing a lot of track time, look into a tunnel mount torque arm. The stock ones are weak, and mounted to the tailshaft of the tranny - which can cause them to break. Then, if you've got the budget, look into a h/c/i combo. A good tune would be in order as well. Frost - a site sponser, click his banner at the top - is highly recommended. You can't beat the price or results. Or a full dyno tune, if you have a shop local.

**ScottWernWS6** · 01-07-2012, 11:25 AM

I already have subframe connectors and thanks for the advice, so what kinda clutch, what gears etc?
Any particular companys or webistes that have good ones? And yeah i wanna hear what specific stuff to get when it comes to trans clutch and rear end

**SouthernBornThriller** · 01-07-2012, 12:21 PM

A lot of that will depend on your final goals for the car.

Most have been happy with the Ls7 clutches. Not too expensive, fits as well as stock, and will handle upwards of 600hp with near-stock drivability.

Moser and Strange are at the top of the pile when it comes to rear ends. Both make quality setups for our cars. I've heard that Strange rearends can be a little noisier than Moser, but usually excessive noise is from assembly/installation error on the part of the mechanic in any rear end. So it really just comes down to price and availability for you. Also, if you have a manual transmission you'll want a 9" rear. If an automatic you'll want a 12 bolt.

For gears, you'll want at least a 3.73 ratio. Anything less won't be getting you off the line as fast as you could be, but 3.73's wont hurt your gas mileage or drivability as much as steeper ratios. Just depends on how much daily driving the car will do. If it's going to be a track queen you can go up to a 4.10 easily, probably even more.

**Knight** · 01-07-2012, 12:21 PM

Spec, Textrailia, and CenterForce are popular choices. I run a Spec and am very happy with it. When doing the clutch, look into upgrading to a Tick adjustable master cylinder, and a new slave cylinder.

As for rear ends, Moser, Strange, and MWC are usually the way to go. I run a Moser 9" with 4.10 gears. I find it a great ratio to compliment the m6. 9"s are recommended for m6's, as they tend to handle the torque shock better.

**INMY01TA** · 01-07-2012, 04:20 PM

If you want to beat up on that 5.0 at the track your gonna want a Moser 9" with 4:10 gears. Also want to get some rubber. If you can't afford a spare set of track rims like Prostars or Bogarts then try and get a pair of 16" f body rims and some drag radials for them. A good clutch, Spec, Textrailia, Mcleod, or Ram, and a steel driveshaft. You can keep the suspension stock for a while. All the power in the world won't help you without these things. You'll have a better advantage when you can launch the car at 5,000-6,500 rpms and have the tires stick. Get a line lock as well. After all this is said and done, swap in a bigger cam.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-07-2012, 04:23 PM

Before anything, you need to answer this...

What is your budget?

**INMY01TA** · 01-07-2012, 04:24 PM

Or you cold leave everything the same and just spray it. Lol.

**REVNORR82** · 01-07-2012, 04:59 PM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

Or you cold leave everything the same and just spray it. Lol.

This all over the place.

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**Nowhereman** · 01-07-2012, 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by ScottWernWS6

A whiles back i got spanked by the new 5.0 and i want revenge, granted im not all that experienced, that day was the first time i had been to the track and with my ws6 with bolt ons(volant cai, slp headers, flowmaster 80s) i ran a best of 13.373@ 108(my buddy told me my reaction time was disgustingly terrible lol)
I was thinking of doing cam/head or some form of forced induction but want to do whatever is most cost efficient. Any ideas?

Spray and a turbo.......Done

**35th-ANV-SS** · 01-07-2012, 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by Nowhereman

Spray and a turbo.......Done

Turbo and spray?

He's not competing for 9's at the track.

**BrntWS6** · 01-10-2012, 07:29 AM

You can get a TDP stage 2 clutch for $100 more (on sale) than an LS7, I wouldn't even waste my time with the far inferior LS7 setup. Some people have good luck with them but they seem to have about a 20% failure rate. Someone like Monster or TDP's clutches have around a 1 - 2% failure rate, play the odds and do it right the first time.

I think if you told us how much you have to spend we could help you a lot more. I've got about $3500 into my H/C setup....that includes 2.5 LS6 heads, cam of choice, injectors, TC, Oil pump, gaskets / bolts, UD pulley, fluids, LS7 lifters w/ LS2 treys and a good dyno tune. This is installed by me so figure another 1k if you have a shop do it. I've still got the stock 10 bolt but I never go to the track, It just sees car shows and the occasional street race. A 12 bolt is defianately a good idea, but if you baby it and don't launch or slam gears hard you can strech it out.