Time for some maintenance on the WS6

[WS6 MANN]

I have a 2000 WS6 with 30k miles, its time for an oil change. Should I be looking to change other fluids if so which ones and using what fluids? Just put in my amsoil eaa83 air filter, but now that Im takin her in for the oil change i mind as well get some recommendations on the other things i should do. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.

[SMWS6TA]

only 30,000 miles That's low......what's your secret to avoiding temptation to drive it?



Transmission - A4 fluid & filter about 65-70k miles, M6's - same, no filter.
Rear end - 70k miles.
Coolant - every 3 yrs
Oil - you should know. Now would be a good time to switch over to synthetic.


I wouldn't necessary change any of these yet except the coolant. 3 yr period is all it's good for. Oil's will break down but not as bad as coolant. Things I would be cautious on is hoses, belts, gaskets and seals. A sitting car over long periods of time tends to dry them out, then cause failure (massive leaks).

[WS6 MANN]

only 30,000 miles That's low......what's your secret to avoiding temptation to drive it?



Transmission - A4 fluid & filter about 65-70k miles, M6's - same, no filter.
Rear end - 70k miles.
Coolant - every 3 yrs
Oil - you should know. Now would be a good time to switch over to synthetic.


I wouldn't necessary change any of these yet except the coolant. 3 yr period is all it's good for. Oil's will break down but not as bad as coolant. Things I would be cautious on is hoses, belts, gaskets and seals. A sitting car over long periods of time tends to dry them out, then cause failure (massive leaks).

Haha, yea it does have low miles!!! And it is a M6 if i was to change the transmission fluid which would u recommend, same with rear end and coolant. I use Mobil 1 Fully synthetic oil with extended performance M1 filter so no worries on synthetic. How about spark plugs do you think those should still be good, I know the car has low miles but it is a 2000 thats why Im kind of tempted to change all of the above... Thanks

[SMWS6TA]

I used what is called for on my M6 transmission and rear. Can't remember off the top of my head. Royal Purple has gotten a bad rep here with most of the LS1 crowd.



Plugs - this comes down to personal opinion. Most guys run TR55 plugs from NGK. They are a copper plug and run really good. Only negative is that they are good for about 20-25k miles. Iridium plugs last much longer but don't have as much spark as copper.


I use the TR55 and MSD wires. Great combo.

Like I said above, with you mileage I wouldn't change anything except maybe the coolant. Not enough mileage to really break down the oils.




Any reason why you've keep the mileage off?

[WS6 MANN]

I used what is called for on my M6 transmission and rear. Can't remember off the top of my head. Royal Purple has gotten a bad rep here with most of the LS1 crowd.



Plugs - this comes down to personal opinion. Most guys run TR55 plugs from NGK. They are a copper plug and run really good. Only negative is that they are good for about 20-25k miles. Iridium plugs last much longer but don't have as much spark as copper.


I use the TR55 and MSD wires. Great combo.

Like I said above, with you mileage I wouldn't change anything except maybe the coolant. Not enough mileage to really break down the oils.


Any reason why you've keep the mileage off?

Thanks ill chose QUALITY over anything i rather have it be great for short time frames and have to change it then have poor quality over a long time frame. What you think of moving to complete AMSOIL products including all oils and all fluids? The mileage its not my daily driver and i actually purchased it at 28k miles! always wanted a black bird stick shift with low miles took me long enough to find one but once i did it was a no brainer! lol

[SMWS6TA]

AMSOIL is some good stuff. I've used it in past vehicles and like the stuff.


We have a member here that sells the stuff.

I'll try to look for him and have him pm you.

[sjgreen6]

You might also want to flush the brake system. Even if the car is not being driven much the brake fluid will pull in water from the air and cause the internal brake parts to corrode and fail sooner than necessary.

[pajeff02]

Not a bad idea to siphon off the power steering fluid and replace it as well. Do this 2 or 3 times, running the car in between, and you'll effectively change out most of the old fluid. +1 on servicing the brake system. A MityVac works great for flushing out the old stuff, just be careful not to suck the reservoir dry.

[WS6 MANN]

Not a bad idea to siphon off the power steering fluid and replace it as well. Do this 2 or 3 times, running the car in between, and you'll effectively change out most of the old fluid. +1 on servicing the brake system. A MityVac works great for flushing out the old stuff, just be careful not to suck the reservoir dry.

Hey i gotta a question some times, my steering wheel tends to tighten up meaning its hard to turn it do you think that has something to do with the power steering fluid? doesn't happen often but I've noticed it hear and there

[SuperSSguy]

Hey i gotta a question some times, my steering wheel tends to tighten up meaning its hard to turn it do you think that has something to do with the power steering fluid? doesn't happen often but I've noticed it hear and there

Sounds like the ps pumps going bad or the steering rack any noises?...but change the fluids as mentioned above and see whats up.

[pajeff02]

Hey i gotta a question some times, my steering wheel tends to tighten up meaning its hard to turn it do you think that has something to do with the power steering fluid? doesn't happen often but I've noticed it hear and there

Wouldn't be the first rack to go bad in our cars. The other common failure is the p/s cooler mounted in the upper radiator hose. When it fails, the cooling system and power steering systems become cross contaminated. If you have any milky white gunk or other signs of moisture in your p/s reservoir the cooler is the prime suspect. I actually removed ours and mounted a small tube and fin cooler on the K-member so as to avoid this issue.