Stupid SECURITY light on,2000 WS6

[fbodyNATION]

So i wanted to use the T/A to run to the store today to grab a few things,i started it up to let it run for a few minutes before i pull off,i always do that before i drive it,i turned it off to run inside,i didnt notice if the security light was on or not,i never had an issue with the security system,the key is brand new so i dont understand why the light came on,its not solid its blinking,i waited about 30 minutes for the light to stop blinking and it never stopped,so i just got frustrated and locked the car up and jumped in the GTP,this is what i hate about GM vehicles the security systems are crap,they should let us buy our on alarm systems

[Knight]

Sounds like VATS. Time for the bypass. - http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/

[Big D Squared]

The red security light is supposed to blink when u turn off the car

[fbodyNATION]

The red security light is supposed to blink when u turn off the car

no i mean the yellow one on the cluster,it wont let the car start

[2002ssslp]

Bypass the VATS. That should cure the problem.

[fbodyNATION]

I tried to start the car today still I had no luck,the car did the same thing security light is still blinking,about a year ago my father and uncle lost my original keys and key fob(remote) I used to always open the door with the key fob(remote) when they lost that I went to the dealer to get new keys,but no new remote everytime I opened the door the dash lights would blink and the horn would blow repeaditly,but once I put the key in the ignition the horn would stop blowing and dash light would stop blinking,not the security light,but the rpm,speedometer etc the car would start up with no problem,but tonight the dash lights are blinking still along with the security light and when I put the key in and turn the ignition to start the car the dash lights continue to blink,but after a few minutes they stop blinking but the security light continues,I wonder if I go buy a new remote would the car start,I been opening the door for over a year with the key,the horn got annoying so I pulled the fuse I'm just puzzled how this happened with no warning signs and brand new cut keys from the stealership

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I tried to start the car today still I had no luck,the car did the same thing security light is still blinking,about a year ago my father and uncle lost my original keys and key fob(remote) I used to always open the door with the key fob(remote) when they lost that I went to the dealer to get new keys,but no new remote everytime I opened the door the dash lights would blink and the horn would blow repeaditly,but once I put the key in the ignition the horn would stop blowing and dash light would stop blinking,not the security light,but the rpm,speedometer etc the car would start up with no problem,but tonight the dash lights are blinking still along with the security light and when I put the key in and turn the ignition to start the car the dash lights continue to blink,but after a few minutes they stop blinking but the security light continues,I wonder if I go buy a new remote would the car start,I been opening the door for over a year with the key,the horn got annoying so I pulled the fuse I'm just puzzled how this happened with no warning signs and brand new cut keys from the stealership

[0rion]

in case you missed the other 2 posts.....bypass the vats. The security system works on the pellet in the key....not the fob. The reason the horn would stop blowing is because the vats module was reading that pellet when you put it in the ignition.
The reason it's happening is because your issue is inside the ignition itself....there are 2 small wires that touch either side of that pellet. They wear down or break over time. You could replace those in the ignition but you're basically repairing something that's going to fail again at some point.....shit design. You can bypass the vats in about 30 minutes and it'll cost you less than $10. Read that thread posted by knight up there carefully and avoid the pitfalls others have had doing it. It's a really really simple job....don't make it complicated and don't half ass it and you'll be fine.

[fbodyNATION]

ok got ya where can i take the key to be read for ohms? can i go to the stealership or just go buy an ohm reader?

[Knight]

I'll post the link again, in case you missed it - http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/

This shows you every step to take to bypass it. You can use a ohm meter to find out what resistors you will need.

[KahanaReef]

I'm guessing he doesn't have access to a ohmmeter and wants to know where he can go to have it read.


OP, you can pick up a cheap one for under $20.

[Knight]

Also, most multi-meters have an ohm setting as well, so you could use one of those if you have access.

[fbodyNATION]

thanks guys im gonna go to walmart,lowes or home depot and buy a digital one

[Too Fast]

Or, if you want, take your key in there and ''accidently'' ohm it if any of the meters have leads attached. You might be able to ohm it at a local auto parts store. But, it isn't a bad idea to have a multi-meter around. You ohm it by touching a lead to each side of the pellet on the key.

[0rion]

you will get more use out of a digital multimeter at some point down the road. Radioshack used to have them for about $10 but it's been a while since I've even been in a radioshack.

[initechpeter]

I took mine to the stealership and they charge me to tell what ohm it was. Some do services like that to get you business, but I wasn't buying anything just stopping by.

[fbodyNATION]

thanks guys for the info it was very helpful my VATS is now history!!!!!