OBD system not ready?? Failed Inspection

[02Hawk]

Ok so I have been away in ST.louis for a while and had my buddy take my car thru inspection here in NJ. Well everything passed except for this...

OBD SYSTEM RADINESS STATUS:
Catalytic Converters NOT READY
Oxygen Sensors NOT READY
Oxygen Sensor Heaters NOT READY
EGR Sytems UNUSED
Secondary Air Injection NOT READY
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM NOT READY
Fuel Sytem READY
Engine Misfire READY
AC UNUSED
Comprehensive Component READY
Overall Readiness Result FAIL!!!!

Thats the print out I got from the DMV.... so what is goin on with my system?

I've Never heard of this... ps my battery has never died or been disconnected cause thats what they told my friend that took it in.

[Rhinohuey]

We are having the same exact problem with a 99 Dodge Neon our neighbor gave me. No engine light, but when we take if for emissions, some of the systems are not ready. We have tried EVERYTHING short of taking it to the dealership. When we ask someone about it, the most common answer we get is to make sure that there is not low voltage for some reason, or to make sure there is not a short somewhere between the battery and the computer. (I'm assuming you've tried those though.) Sorry I couldn't be any help to you. I'm going to be watching this thread also.

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

Looks like you need to complete a drive cycle...EGR says unused because GM stopped putting EGR's in f-bod LS1's in 2001.

Are you sure they didn't say that it had been disconnected or died? That would make more sense because it would force a PCM relearn....explaining the uncompleted drive cycle.

Check the batt(load test), cable terminals and cables for corrosion...the car could be losing power without you even knowing it

[02Hawk]

Looks like you need to complete a drive cycle...EGR says unused because GM stopped putting EGR's in f-bod LS1's in 2001.

Are you sure they didn't say that it had been disconnected or died? That would make more sense because it would force a PCM relearn....explaining the uncompleted drive cycle.

Check the batt(load test), cable terminals and cables for corrosion...the car could be losing power without you even knowing it

been there... 14.02 V and 13.01 under load. checked cables, etc... i drive the car daily and never had a problem. Its wierd. I drove the car a full oil change and took it... still notta

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

What did you use to check the battery?

[02Hawk]

battery load test that hooks up to the terminals, ask what the CCA's are, then puts a load on, then tells you to take the engine up to 1500+ RPMS, etc... cant think of the name of it.

[fast enough Z28]

This going to sound stupid but you also need to have more than half a tank of gas. For some reason the drive cycle wants thats. I think its for a gas cap test not sure. Just search drive cycle and follow the steps!

[Rhinohuey]

I don't want to hijack the thread or anything, but I just thought I would point out, I've printed out every "drive cycle" instruction sheet with every required parameter, checked all cables I could find anywhere between battery and computer to make sure it never looses power, checked battery voltage (stored and loaded), and still a bunch of my sensors will not "ready". (keep in mind this car is a Dodge, not a GM) but I think its possible I might have problems with OBDII or the computer or something. I have tried everything else possible on my car. I'm going to have to take mine to the dealership.

[02Hawk]

This going to sound stupid but you also need to have more than half a tank of gas. For some reason the drive cycle wants thats. I think its for a gas cap test not sure. Just search drive cycle and follow the steps!

filled her up with premium the night before lol.... and today well... yesterday now

[02Hawk]

heres what i found and am going to try


General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

PS- I need to move to florida so I dont haev to worry about inspections.... Long Tubes would be open all year round... except maybe at night lol