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New Trans Am to the community! My first F-Body!
This is a discussion on New Trans Am to the community! My first F-Body! within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ...
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12-18-2012, 03:06 PM #21
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- Dec 2012
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12-18-2012, 03:07 PM #22
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12-18-2012, 03:33 PM #23
Woooow!!! That is way clean!!!! Night and day difference on the engine bay! Looks even better now! For the rusted bolts, I would take them off one by one and paint the top black and put them back on, you can put them back on without damaging the paint by putting some electrical tape in between the socket and the bolt. Glad you fixed the high beams issue (what an easy fix!). Let the mods begin!
I would personally recommend a lid first, it makes the engine bay look so much cleaner and it helps with performance a bit also.
My mind is going crazy thinking of all the mods you can do with a stock car!
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12-18-2012, 03:49 PM #24
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- Dec 2012
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Thanks! You are completely right...night and day difference. I am still amazed with the quality of work they did. When spring time comes, I will take the bolts off and paint them.
The first mod will be the SLP LM 1 Exhaust. It should be here this week...I hope! Early Christmas present!Also, I ordered the hard anodized aluminum gears today from Rodney Dickman. He also sends the urethane and rubber bumper free. Check it out! Rodney Dickman's Automotive Accessories
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12-18-2012, 04:04 PM #25
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12-18-2012, 04:28 PM #26
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12-18-2012, 06:06 PM #27
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- Feb 2009
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- Mansfield, PA
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Black & Blue- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
Definitely did a nice job on the clean up. Looks good.
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12-18-2012, 06:14 PM #28
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12-19-2012, 02:14 PM #29
Nice find or should I say search!! Would also leave only to bolt ons for mods if only 98 made and then same year(98) kinda interesting.You can get into plenty of trouble on streets with just some mods and already looks like ready to show!!!
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12-19-2012, 04:01 PM #30
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- Dec 2012
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Thank you! Yeah, that is odd they only made 98 in 98! lol. However, on the Bright Purple Metallic they only made 84 in 98.
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I picked the car up from the mechanic today. Everything checked out well for the most part. There are a few minor issues. Before I get to the issues let me tell you about the checkup.
The mechanic told me all the belts and hoses look "new" and do not need replaced. He pulled the spark plugs and said they look good, but could use a tune up if I wanted it. The coolant fluid, power steering fluid, and rear differential fluid with LSP needs changed. He recommended I do the tune up (if I want it) and fluid changes in the spring since I am not driving the car during the winter. The high beam lights and passenger side fog light was burnt out so he replaced them. I was missing some plastic “rivets/screws” (I think that is what they are called) that held a few plastic pieces in place. He replaced them for no change.
The mechanic put my car on the lift so I could see the underneath. There is some rust, but not too bad (I don’t think). Next year around spring/summer, I am going to have the underneath of my car restored/cleaned/rust sealed.
Now, here are the few minor issues he discovered:
1. The steering wheel column is loose. That is why the high beam light was on the dash when I originally bought it. To turn it off, you have to press down on the steering wheel to turn off and on the high beams. He took apart the steering wheel to tighten the four bolts that hold it in, but realized the bearing is bad. Thus why the steering wheel is loose. He told me it would be cheaper to buy a whole new steer wheel column, then to replace the bearings due to the labor cost (about 6hrs of labor).
2. The fuel pump is weak. This is why there is hesitation/long crank over to start up the car. He put on the fuel pressure tester and showed me where my pressure is at. It’s just barely getting 40 PSI, when it should be between 55-60 PSI. The fuel pump is going to cost around $730, labor $460, fuel filter $40. I am looking at $1,230 to fix it. He also mentioned to save me on cost, I should put the exhaust system on at the same time since the axel, and exhaust will have to be dropped to take out the fuel tank.
3. He told me right of bat my power steering line is not leaking, but there is some “wetness” there and on the pump. I took pictures for you all to see. He mentioned I should probably replace it sometime in the near future before it does go out.
What do you all think? Are the prices the mechanic quoted me outrageous? Besides these few minor issues, I think I bought a great car. Any advice is welcome
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12-19-2012, 04:01 PM #31
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12-19-2012, 04:01 PM #32
I've been following is thread to see all the mods your about to do, I must say I really like the WSQ hood. Let us know if you decide to go with it.
So, you went all the way to Kansas to get your car? I only had to go to Illinois.
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12-19-2012, 04:07 PM #33
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12-19-2012, 04:12 PM #34
You have a nice look'n car. I will view this thread to see how your doing.
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12-19-2012, 04:24 PM #35
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12-20-2012, 02:45 AM #36
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- Feb 2009
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Black & Blue- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
You can replace the fuel pump yourself -- it is not all that difficult. In lieu of dropping the tank, some guys opt to cut a door in the floor of the hatch. The pump is held in with a lock ring and it is simply a matter of hose and wiring connections. If you go with an aftermarket pump, such as Racetronix, there are a few more steps that need to be completed. You can find threads on here that detail the pump replacement procedure with pics. However, this all being said, start by installing a new fuel filter and see what happens. It is located under the car, driver side, in front of the rear axle -- visible in the pics you posted.
The P/S leak doesn't look too serious -- I would hose everything down with brake cleaner and then keep an eye on it. My P/S rack was gunked up when we bought our car, cleaned it up and really don't have any new fluid accumulation. Could have been overfilled even and dumped out at one time creating the original mess. I know the fill cap on our pump weeps just a bit too.
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12-20-2012, 03:16 AM #37
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- Dec 2012
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- OH
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Hi pajeff02 - thanks for the advice. I will install a new fuel filter first and see what happens. Is there any brand/type of fuel filter you recommend? Or should I go to my local auto parts store (Autozone or Advance auto parts) and pick up any fuel filter for a 98 TA?
I'll pick up some break cleaner this weekend and spray it down.
Just a quick thought...do you think my fuel injects are dirty, which may cause the low fuel pressure? If so, how do I clean them?
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12-20-2012, 03:35 AM #38
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Black & Blue- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
A parts store filter is fine. You can pick up a bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner, but the car would probably be running erratically if the injectors were fouling up.
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12-20-2012, 03:39 AM #39
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Thanks, I will grab a filter later today. Is there anything I need to know when I take off the fuel filter? Will fuel come out?
I was just reading about cleaning your injectors using Seafoam. They said to fill your tank up, pour a full bottle of Seafoam in, and drive your car to clean the injectors. What do you think about Seafoam?
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12-20-2012, 04:28 AM #40
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- Dec 2012
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