Low bean connector melts

**wnmech** · 03-30-2009, 01:24 PM

I am on my third drivers side headlight door motor. The original failed to come up so I replaced it with an Oreilly auto store lifetime warranty and after about a month the low beam connector melted so I replaced the motor under warranty and also the headlamp and it happened again after about a month. The can is not driven excessively long at night. Has anyone else had this problem? I may just have to go with a heavier gage wire. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

**RyanJM** · 03-30-2009, 03:13 PM

Too small of a wire would make it heat up and melt. Another cause is people who runn high(100) wattage bulbs in the low beams without upgrading the wiring. make sure all the connections are crimped tight, soldering is always better. Loose connections make woires heat up because there not conducting the power properly.

**Schmalgar** · 04-08-2011, 09:05 AM

Old thread, but this has just happened to me. The socket/connector to one of the low beams has melted, the wire itself melted through as well. It did occur shortly after I replaced the bulb, so I have to wonder if I got the wrong bulb now, and overpowered it. I will check that.

Does anyone one else have experience or insight with this problem? Is there anything else besides the power rating of the bulb I used that I need to check?

**Cutlass** · 04-09-2011, 03:47 AM

poor connections can cause excessive resistance and heat build up. The terminals could have been worn out/fitting loosely together

**az gt eater** · 04-09-2011, 11:47 AM

I can tell you that my connectors are melting. No problems. Just noticed it.

**Schmalgar** · 04-09-2011, 01:17 PM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

poor connections can cause excessive resistance and heat build up. The terminals could have been worn out/fitting loosely together

There was corrosion on one of the terminal prongs on the new headlight. Does that mean anything obvious, like bad connection/excessive resistance, like you say?

**Cutlass** · 04-09-2011, 06:01 PM

yes. Corrosion cause high resistance. High resistance can cause heat related problems.

**Schmalgar** · 04-09-2011, 06:04 PM

Roger, thanks. It was a brand new bulb though, so I was wondering where the corrosion came from... I guess the socket itself was probably corroded and it rubbed off on the bulb...

How difficult is it to add/wire a new socket? Is it something a noob with good general skills can do, or am I better off taking it to a shop?

**Cutlass** · 04-09-2011, 06:13 PM

Its easy. Just cut the wires (becareful to leave enough wires to work with though.), strip some insulation back, and crimp together the new socket leads to those wires with butt splice connectors. The most important part next is to make sure those splices are weatherproof, or you'll be doing it again in a year or 2.
To make them weather proof, you can melt some hot glue over the open ends. Some sockets come with nice weatherproof butt splice connector. You put a lighter to them and they melt, shrink, and ooze out goo to seal the wiring. You can also find those splice connectors at boat and marine stores.

**Schmalgar** · 04-09-2011, 07:04 PM

Excellent. Thanks for the tips, bud!

**pajeff02** · 04-10-2011, 05:09 AM

After replacing the socket, clean up the prongs on your light if they appear to be corroded. A small piece of emory cloth, fine grit sandpaper, or even a small wire brush will work. Like Cutlass pointed out -- corrosion creates higher resistance to the flow of electricity and that equate to higher heat. Applying di-electric grease to the connection is also a good idea. You can get this at most parts stores and possibly Radio Shack. Goop up the terminals a bit before you snap it together and this will prevent future corrosion.