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I know its not an LS1 but its a 74 TA 455

This is a discussion on I know its not an LS1 but its a 74 TA 455 within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Need some advice. I found a 74 455 trans am in reasonable condition. It has a 455 but its not ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007

    2001 Trans Am

    I know its not an LS1 but its a 74 TA 455

    Need some advice. I found a 74 455 trans am in reasonable condition. It has a 455 but its not original motor. It was rebuild roughly 500 miles ago but that was several years back.

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    it comes with all the parts and such pictured as well as the car. I asked about engine rebuild info and such and this was what I got back "Yes, I have a folder with all of the detail including the cam card. The rotating assembly was balanced. Block was bored out I believe only 30 but I can not remember. Heads received a three angle valve job. Performer intake." Then he sent me the link above.

    The car does not run when asked what would be necessary this is what i was told "Not much. Since it's sat for several years just preping the engine properly. Maybe a new battery and hooking up the linkage to the carb. The engine probably has less then 500 miles on it since it was rebuilt." "but yes it could easily be restarted"

    What would one expect to pay for this car with this information in the midwest?

  2. #2
    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Mechanicsburg, PA

    Navy Blue
    2002 Trans Am WS6 Conv

    I would have to say it very much depends. The '74-76s will never be very popular due to the front bumpers that many call the "shovel nose" look. If the car was an original 455 that helps some. You can verify the original build through Pontiac Historical Services for a $65 fee. The condition of the body is the first thing I would consider. If it is in fact rust free (these F bodies rust in the door jams, floor pans, lower doors, rear window channel, and wheel arches) that is a big bonus and will save you lots of money on the restore. I would definitely want the engine running and a compression test performed. If not running, price accordingly. Looks like lots of extra parts. Did they come off of the car or just spares? If off of the car they can tell you a lot about the actual condition before the recent paint job. Use a weak refrigerator magnet to hold a piece of paper to the body to check for Bondo in the quarters and lower doors. If you can't get the magnet to stick in more than a couple of spots, walk away. If the parts are just spares they can add up to a lot of quick money if you sell them. Check to see if the engine really is a 455 by looking under the block for a cast in 455 (Year One web site has some good instructions for identifying Pontiac V8 blocks). If the engine is a 455 and he has papers showing the engine serial number for the rebuild and that it was not bored more than .030 you are probably OK as long as it is still solid. But, there is probably a good reason why the car is not running. Damage soon after a rebuild is always a danger. One loose fastener or blocked oil passage can cause serious damage that will require a full rebuild. Price accordingly. Just me but If you are paying for a solid, rust free, complete body but questionable power train you are in the $4000 range. If you are buying a so-so body with a questionable power train you are in the $2500-3000 range. If you can't verify any of the power train because it can't be started I'd go even lower. The risk is all yours and it is clear the seller doesn't care much about the car. At that price you can probably part the car out if you have to and make your money back but not your labor.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Mansfield, PA

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Carefully look the car over and ask lots of questions as you have been. If you are not mechanically inclined, take someone who is to look at the car. Inspect it carefully for body damage and rust, especially in the trunk and areas behind the rear wheels. Not knowing if it runs or not is a real problem. Ideally, the oiling system should be manually primed, a touch of oil should be shot down each plug hole and the motor should be rolled over with the plugs out until it builds oil pressure. Only then should you put it back together and dump some gas to it and try to get it running. I would not allow it to drink from the gas tank as there is no telling what sort of foulness is in there after years of sitting, but a gas can and section of hose plumbed to the fuel pump will work just fine.

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