hay guys starting my cam only build and need help asap

[keatonssickws6]

hay guys im starting my build on my 99 ls1 ws6 im getting 4l60e transmission rebuild and stalled but im not sure what cam to put in it i need help on what cam for i bought an slp flo pak and longtube headers it has an slp loudmouth 2 on it now an getting a chip for it and nittos but my goul is to run 11.80-12.00 with it but i want too keep the heads for now whats the best cam ????

[35th-ANV-SS]

Is this car a daily driver? How aggressive of a cam do you want? A lot of people like the TSP 228R on a 112LSA. Torquer V2 is also a well known performer in the LS1. With stock heads and the LS1 intake since you have a 99, your car isn't going to respond quite as well as the 01-02 models with the LS6 intake with just a cam swap.

Do you also intend on upgrading the timing chain, oil pump, valve springs, and push rods? Those are all recommended upgrades with a cam swap.

[keatonssickws6]

yes i plan on that is that a 1/4 time possable ? its my summer car i want to beat a new 5.0 mustang or cobra how much would a ls6 intake run me or i want to buy the lsx 92mm intake how much do those cost ?

[35th-ANV-SS]

LS6 intake is around $300 used. You don't want to know what a new FAST intake and TB costs.

Any 1/4 is possible when the correct amount of suspension, drive train, and motor work is done. Just depends how deep your pockets are. Remember, adding HP/TQ doesn't make the car faster if you can't plant it to the ground effectively. I'd be worried about the puny 10-bolt rear end.

Your cam selection should really match the size stall you plan on running. You can also always call a reputable shop like TSP and ask for a custom grind cam. I would change your intake at a minimum though. That LS1 intake is really going to choke you.

A 3600 stall coupled with a decent size cam and some tread should net you your results, assuming you don't blow your rear end on your launch.

[keatonssickws6]

ok sweet yea i havent bought a stall yett based on that fact if u know anyone selling a ls6 intake i will buy it right away would 1800 get me a 12 bolt rear end ?

[35th-ANV-SS]

Might be close if you plan on installing it yourself and find a good deal somewhere. I paid around $2500 for my 9".

[98TransAmWs-6]

hay guys im starting my build on my 99 ls1 ws6 im getting 4l60e transmission rebuild and stalled but im not sure what cam to put in it i need help on what cam for i bought an slp flo pak and longtube headers it has an slp loudmouth 2 on it now an getting a chip for it and nittos but my goul is to run 11.80-12.00 with it but i want too keep the heads for now whats the best cam ????

I would not get a chip for it, they don't really work well and can be damaging. What I would do is get a dyno tune or a mail order tune from Steve at www.tunebyfrost.com

[35th-ANV-SS]

Thanks, Will. I meant to comment on that as well, but forgot.

[devildogws6]

from past experience i would work your way from back to the front starting with the Rear end or at least have money saved up for that. Yeah a lucky few have made it work but i would not risk it. If you do the cam the right way your looking at around $1000 not including a solid tune.

[SMWS6TA]

Jon & Will are giving you solid advice. Your plans for betting the new 5.0's are going to require you to invest in much more then a cam and heads.

Like they said a solid foundation is key.

Some simple bolt ons will help make it run better and go a little faster.

Getting a SLP Air Lid style, LS6 intake, LT headers, deleting the egr/air pump crap, decent tune from Frost and you'll feel like it's a new car. All of these are basic bolt ons and can be done easily in your drive way or garage.

The 99's are kinda like a step child to me, they are the only yr that got a slightly weaker cam, the lesser fuel injectors (26lbs vs 28lbs), and are the start of the "chicken pox" problem for the sail panel. So for all that they have no where else but to go up IMHO.


Some other things to consider when doing a CAM/Heads swap: (some of these are already mention but need to be stressed)

Costs:

Tuning - A full tune will go around $500. With new cam & heads, you'll need a full tune to get full benefit of the parts. You could get a basic tune from Frost in order to get you to a tune shop but you won't be doing any WOT passes. This type of tune is strictly to get it to a shop without trailer it. Timing/Fuel/Air tables all need to be adjusted.

Fuel Injectors - 99's came with 26lbs while all the other yrs came with 28 lbs. Depending on the CAM you choose you might need to plan for some more injectors. Where you order your cam from should be able to tell you if new injectors are going to be required.

Valve Springs - Cams = new valve springs always, pricing depends on several things so estimate around $275-$600.

Timing chain - upgrade to LS2 timing chain at the very least. I just picked one up for $50(new). They are very strong for a single rollar and can handle well into the 500 hp/tq power range.

Oil pump - The stock LS1 oil pump for 97-00 yrs is a know weakness. Everyone usually goes for the LS6 OP. Strong and dependable. All 02< LS1 blocks came with the LS6 OP. Goes for $110

Push rods - This is something that is highly recommended to wait until you have the cam and heads installed prior to ordering. HIGHLY RECOMMEND purchasing a push rod measuring tool ($20). This will give you the correct length for your push rods. OEM Stock length is 7.40". However several factors come into play when measuring push rod length: height of the head, cam lobe, valve spring height. What ever brand you use get chrome moly. Worth the extra $$ for a stronger product.

Now this part may seem confusing from what I just stated. Yes, you can get a cam, install it and then come back to do heads later. However, you will need to purchase new push rods for the reasons I stated above AND get a new tune. This added cost is the reason why most ppl do a CAM/Heads swap at same time. I don't know about you but spending an extra $500 is not something I look forward to.

Stall - after a cam and heads yes a stall is going to need to be done in order to get the full performance to the rear. This also requires a tune.

You may be seeing a pattern here everything seems to need a tune after it. Not trying to frighten you just giving you what has taken long hrs of researching for myself.



Traction is the key to wining, it can be gained by changes in gear ratio, tires & rear suspension plus practicing of launch control. I've seen 500 RWHP cars get smoked because they had no traction by lower HP cars.



We aren't saying you can build engine first and work your way back, it's just based on previous experiences and the research I've done it's smart money to work from rear forward, leaving the engine last. That way you know when you plant your foot into the pedal things shouldn't break. It would really piss me off to spend $2500 on cam/heads/etc and blow the rear end out on the first pass attempt.

The rear ends in these cars should have been register as a crime from GM. Most A4' do well with GM 12 bolt, M6's go with 9" or even DANA 60's. You have several places to get one. Moser, Strange & Mid West Chassis have good reps. Cost vary to what you want. Plan for around $2500.


Greatest piece of advice I can give is research, research, research. Take notes, drawl up a plan of action & budget. Think long term goal and short term projects. A good solid car can be put together quick as long as you have deep pockets.

I have no set time line (except to get her back running again) for my project because everything is based on having the money to invest at the right times. Things come up and priorities change, that is why having a long term goal broken up by many short term projects will make it go by faster then it will seem. I've had my car for 3+ yrs now and I've done everything in my signature.

One more thing to add, know your limits.....know what you can do, willing to do, can afford to do. Some of these things aren't easy and require technical skills and specific tools. I'll use me as an example, I plan on wrenching on as much as possible, however when it comes to body/paint I'm farming that out. I know I don't have the skills or patient to do the quality of work I want.