Havn't been on in a while, Need mod advice!!

**90ARAPAJ** · 10-25-2012, 09:36 AM

I've had the same mods for a while and my car is out of tune so I want to spice things up a little with the beast. I basically have full bolt-on parts, gears, NOS(dry), intake, MAF, hypertech calibrate/tune, eibach springs, SFCs, strut tower brace, 4 point roll cage, so my car is as solid as a rock and i want a minimum of 470-500 horsepower at the wheels without NOS. I don't want turbo so leave that out although i will consider a procharger/supercharger. It's either super/pro charger or cams/heads, those are my options, what I don't like is the barely idling growl of cams because then people know what to expect and its not practical. I like a S/C because it sounds stock until you floor it, and it makes all that power. That's the other thing, more power, you need more strength, what do i need to beef up transmission/rear axle/engine wise?? I really appreciate you guys helping me out! Thanks I look forward to the advice!!

***SMWS6TA*** · 10-25-2012, 09:41 AM

has the rear been upgraded yet? If no then that is what I recommend going to first, next upgrade the transmission.

Looks to me you are planning major power and torque in the near future. M9, 12 bolt or Dana 60 would be good recommendations.

**Knight** · 10-25-2012, 11:41 AM

Agree with Scott. Upgrade the drivetrain, and panhard bar, control arms, ect., to handle extra power.

**90ARAPAJ** · 10-25-2012, 04:23 PM

All that has been done to the rear end is 3.73 gears. What kind of transmission would i need to upgrade to (I want to stay auto not manual) and also lets get into the talk of cams/ or S/C...

**Hot Black Trans-Am** · 10-25-2012, 09:14 PM

Do the rear and look into the watts link setup too and ditch the panhard while your back there and you didn't mention LCA's so that would be a good time to swap them too. I must admit I didn't do the Watts link yet, but that is next on my list. I'm sick of the side to side sway in the back with bumps and in turns.

***SMWS6TA*** · 10-26-2012, 10:07 AM

Since you're a A4 -

1) a stall converter matched* to the cam you plan on getting. I say this because to light of a stall and the motor pushes through, too heavy and hard to move. Tuning will need to be done for intake ** heads, cam, and stall. I suggest waiting to do the installs till you have all four. It will save you money because instead of several tunes (going around $450-550 per full tune) it's all done one time.

* - matching a stall converter to the size cam is a must. Most places that sell cams can tell you what stalls and heads work well with whatever cam you choose.

** Intake - depending on the intake you get you may not need to get a full tune. For example - swap to a LS6 intake and you can get by without tuning but the car will benefit more if it is tuned. A mail order tune from Frost will take care of it and some other stuff. Frost tunes are highly recommended if you haven't had one yet. It will wake up a stock A4 and give better shift points. Frost has excellent reputation on here and tech. I as well as many others here have been tuned by Frost.

Now if you get a FAST 90 or 102 then tuning is required. Were the LS6 gives about 30% more air volume over a LS1 intake, the FAST intakes greatly increase the air volume (AV) over the LS6 intake. Not tuned the air fuel tables to compensate for the increase AV can cause leaning issues at top end = loss of HP and stalling.

2) rear ends - A4's seem to like 12 bolts and Dana 60's, not saying a 9" wouldn't work just saying what I've seen most guys choose here and at the track for a4's. Also some gears work better for automatics, some work better for manuals.

3) transmission - 460Le's can only be built so much. The next tranny that is consider for serious track use and abuse is a 480Le. I can't speak to much about them just what I've read on here. The A4 guys can fill in the gaps for you on this question.

The main thing you need to do right now is figure out what you want as a car. Research it and come up with a plan of action. You're smart in asking us for opinions and looking for answers. Some answers you'll get is opinion, some facts. Bottom line is what do you want and realize what works for me and others might not be best for you.
And I hope you already realize that moding is expensive....and addictive.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-26-2012, 02:17 PM

I have a Procharger installed on my car with methanol injection. I love it. The car IS a beast. My mods are in my signature. I built the car from the ground up first before adding power and I wouldn't advise anyone to ever do it differently.

I have had my Procharger installed for 2 years now and the car runs flawlessly.

As far as it sounding "stock" though....NOT EVEN CLOSE

Even at idle. The whine from the Procharger is VERY loud. People will know that your car is blown, no question about it.

**90ARAPAJ** · 10-31-2012, 01:48 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I have a Procharger installed on my car with methanol injection. I love it. The car IS a beast. My mods are in my signature. I built the car from the ground up first before adding power and I wouldn't advise anyone to ever do it differently.

I have had my Procharger installed for 2 years now and the car runs flawlessly.

As far as it sounding "stock" though....NOT EVEN CLOSE

Even at idle. The whine from the Procharger is VERY loud. People will know that your car is blown, no question about it.

So you have 500 RWHP just from a procharger and a few other boltons? how does this injection work? I like how it has that wine but how loud is it really because i had a 69 GTX that was blown and people could tell from the sound not to fuck with it. Period. So help me out here LOL

**35th-ANV-SS** · 10-31-2012, 02:31 PM

I am running around 8-9psi on 91+ Octane with methanol as a supplement. When boost is made, the methanol injection pump sprays methanol into the tubing right before the throttle body. Methanol helps keep the IAT's lower and also gives the tuner more wiggle room to work with when tuning the car. Last season I used maybe 3 gallons of methanol. My windshield washer tank was converted into a methanol tank.

I had headers, exhaust, and that is it for mods. Stock motor other than new valve springs and hardened push rods.

That is also going through a 9" rear end, which is less efficient than the 10 bolt.

I have a thread on here in the FI section about my build. There is a video in there also.

I can hear my blower from about a block away.

With LT's, no cats, and the Loud Mouth II exhaust it causes people to roll up their windows while I'm cruising around.

A closed by-pass valve might be a little quieter. Mine is open