Finally bought a trans am and have questions!

**shyboutin** · 09-22-2014, 11:56 AM

Alright! So i finally bought a trans am! I have been looking for well over a year and ended up driving 11 hours to little rock Arkansas to finally get what i wanted! The car is a 2000 non ws6 trans am with 57,9xx miles when i bought it and is at 58,010 miles now. It is in very good condition but needs a few things. it has a fairly small spot of clear coat thats missing by the right headlight, it has the typical cracked door panel on the passengers side and the drivers is starting (the dash is perfect and the rest of the interior is near perfect!). The paint shines and so do the rims! as for aftermarket parts it has-full flowmaster exhast, some kind of headers, k and n cold air intake, a edelbrock stb, a aluminum wieand john lingenfelter intake manifold, a helix thottle body spacer, it also has sub wires left from old subs, and it looks like maybe a different maf sensor? the guy i got it from said it has a hotcam also but i have no proof (the guy didn't seem to know much about the car as he didn't even tell me it had some of the mods it does)....... i got the car for 6k which i think is a pretty good deal!

Now for the questions. first off i have checked any threads i could find concerning the problems i have but not very many of the threads are exactly what im expering.

1- what oil would be best to run in this car?

2-the sail panel sub woofers that provide the bass (behind the front seats) are not working, the other speakers are working fine just not those and its driving me crazy. It is the monsoon system with the stock head unit radio. i did find that by the amp there was a "high low impedance adapter" which looks like someone wired in themselves? i have no idea what its for or what it does..... after further inspection i removed the passenger side cover for the speaker and the black covering and also the speaker itself was all tore up almost like a mouse had chewed it! but the metal was also cut a bit and i dont know if a mouse would chew the metal? the wires we all cut through and not even hooked to the speaker. would this cause the speaker on the driver side to not work also?(it looked to be in good condition). something else that was weird was after i unplugged the passenger speaker from its connector i tried to turn the car on to see if maybe undoing that, the other one might work. when i went to turn the car on after i unplugged it the battery was completely dead and not 5 mins before the battery was fine.

3- the traction control button does not seem to work? The light under the button does not even work, also it does not say the "traction off" or whatever on the dash, but traction control is off on the car (i know because we did a few short burnouts)

4-this one might concern me the most, a engine tick. I know all of you are going to say how ls1s are notorious for ticking and such and its probably no big deal but i would like to get to the bottom of it! the tick does not go away after warming up or anything like that, its there when you start the car and it will be there when it shuts off. i did notice some vibration in a plug wire and after i removed it found a loose plug, 2 or 3 of the plugs on that side were lose enough to turn by hand! after those were tightened the noise was a little more faint i think but the tick wasn't bad in the first place. i haven't been able to check the plugs on the other side yet so maybe that could be some of it.... i almost think it sounds like maybe a exhaust leak from where the headers bolt on but i dont see any black soot. any ideas on what its most likely to be?

5-what should i be at for rpms at 60? i have the door code GU5 so that indicates the 3.23s from the factory but it looks like someones had the rear end plate off... i am right about at 2000 rpms at 60, maybe a tad higher? 2020?

6-also what is a normal idle for this car with the mods it has? i almost think im idling a tad low.. in gear its at 500 and in park maybe 550 or 6.

if any of you guys have some input that could help me out i would much appreciate it! also this is my first car and dont have much money to be throwing around so whatever s cheapest is best!

any suggestions on how to touch up the clear coat and what do to about the door panels would also be much appreciated!

sorry about the long post!

here are some pictures of the car!

http://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....fb2d818e43.png

http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....f88221691d.jpg

http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....5ead31c523.jpg

http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....e8d037b999.jpg

http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....b9efb9945e.jpg

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....d41d27fbcd.jpg

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....eb3e94c263.jpg

http://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....d2deecd89d.jpg

http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....03b1f3aa1b.jpg

http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....baceeec47f.jpg

http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....c2b093d15b.jpg

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....017a05f4ad.jpg

http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech....6e77c8d348.jpg

any idea what the holes are?... again sorry about all the pictures and long post, i just want to show exactly what the car is...thanks

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-22-2014, 12:10 PM

The holes I would be are from an aftermarket fuse system for the sub/amp that sounds like it was removed. Common location next to the battery.

Idle for M6's are around 700-800 rpms and IIRC for A4's it's around 900-1100 rpms.

K&N - If you keep it you need to invest in MAF cleaner and learn how to properly clean & most importantly dry the K&N filter. Otherwise start saving for a new MAF in your future. (Sorry I really hate the K&N filters)

TCS - I'd first check to see if a fuse was blown. It could also be a broken wire if the previous owner ripped out the stereo and not taken care of wires.

I'd take whatever mods he states with a grain of salt till you can verify them.

Ticking noise. Keep chasing the plugs down, sounds like you're on the right track. Loose plugs, makes me wonder what else was short cut.

**sjgreen6** · 09-22-2014, 03:17 PM

Given that you have an automatic and it looks like the previous owner(s) have done a little messing around I would assume they have also messed with the computer. After you get through the basic tune-up things to make sure it is running as good as possible, I recommend you consider getting a tune by Frost. Sending out your computer is pretty painless, relatively inexpensive, and will produce some solid results. If nothing else, it will give you confidence that your computer has been set to valid performance parameters.

Good luck and welcome!

**shyboutin** · 09-22-2014, 07:12 PM

Oh that makes sence why the holes would be there! Also I took a look at the maf sensor and it looked clean but Ima pick up a can of cleaner as soon as possible to be sure.....and sjgreen6, how exactly do I go about getting one of these "Frost tunes"?? And thanks for the welcome!

**0rion** · 09-22-2014, 09:31 PM

stock idle for an auto varies by coolant temp but 550-800 would be normal depending on coolant temp. An up to temp car will idle at 550ish. The engine tick very well could be an exhaust leak. You'll just have to get in there and see where it's coming from. There may not be any obvious sooting from the leak. Also check under the car where the headers and Y pipe meet and see if it's leaking there and that's what you're hearing.

**pajeff02** · 09-23-2014, 02:57 AM

Congrats!

I have been running Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 in our car for a couple of years now. I had the oil pan off at around 75,000 miles to swap the gasket and things inside looked very clean with zero sludge accumulation. I would recommend ditching the K&N in favor of a dry media filter. In addition to potentially contaminating the MAF wires, they simply allow too much dirt to pass into the engine.

**RONS98TA** · 09-23-2014, 04:11 AM

Congrats on the new car! You can hit up google for the rear sub replacements. There are a bunch out there that are decently priced. Its pretty common for the rear subs to be blown apart.

**Nutball** · 09-23-2014, 04:41 AM

Originally Posted by shyboutin

how exactly do I go about getting one of these "Frost tunes"??

TunedByFrost.com - Services

Welcome Shyler..Congrats on the T/A

**shyboutin** · 09-23-2014, 06:55 AM

Thanks for all the input guys!!...it makes me feel a little better that my idle is normal.. concerning the oil again, the penzoil platinum sounds like a pretty good way to go. What is your opinion on synthetic oils?...I'll definitely keep trying to find what the tick is, I'll go take a look under the car as soon as possible... and I might look into a different filter too if that's what you guys think is best. So any non oil based filter is what u want? Any suggestions?....... and if I could find some direct replacements for the speakers that plug right into the existing connectors that would be great... I have seen some good things being said about those frost tunes, is there anything I should do before I send the computer in?.... again thanks for the info!

**Nutball** · 09-23-2014, 07:27 AM

I use Mobile 1
I'm sure you'll get a few opinions on what others use as well. I try to stay with the AC Delco filter but then again, I'm sure others will offer their opinion.
I know Jeff has replaced his speakers before so, I'm sure he'll comment shortly.
As for the Frost Tune......Make sure you list EVERY addon/bolt-on. No matter how minor you might think it is........It matters. Such as Air Lid (SLP, Blackwing...ect...ect..)....smooth bellows,Your exhaust, any trans mods (If known). Anything you find.....make note of it on the worksheet you send Frost. I remember reading something in your earlier post about the RPM's at a certain speed and the fact you said someone "may" have taken off the Diff cover. You might want to consider that someone replaced or upgraded the R&P gear. That needs to be known so your speedo isn't off. Not so much if it was replaced, but if it was upgraded from the stock 3.23.

Just my simple 2 cents worth........
Since you don't know who had nor how this car was driven. With the 50K miles, I'd change all fluids.... oil, diff, trans. Just to be safe.

**shyboutin** · 09-23-2014, 08:39 AM

nutbal- okay if i decide to get a frost ill make sure to list everything i can find and that i know of!.....right now its looking like someone changed the R&P gear.... from what im finding, 2000rpm at 60 is high for 3.23s?

**617wingnut** · 09-23-2014, 04:28 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Congrats!

I have been running Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 in our car for a couple of years now. I had the oil pan off at around 75,000 miles to swap the gasket and things inside looked very clean with zero sludge accumulation. I would recommend ditching the K&N in favor of a dry media filter. In addition to potentially contaminating the MAF wires, they simply allow too much dirt to pass into the engine.

I've got a K&N filter in my 2000 WS6. It was in the car when I bought it. Last year I had to replace my MAF sensor. After reading recently here and elsewhere, I'm gonna take your advice and go with a paper filter. What brands of air filter should I go with? Other than Flowmaster exhaust, everything else is stock on my car.

**0rion** · 09-23-2014, 04:52 PM

I always try to stay out of this discussion and every time I swear I'm not going to comment......and every time I can't resist.

I've ran the same K&N filter on my car for 15 years with zero problems. You just have to be smart about how to clean it and how often you clean it. Don't over oil it and clean it along with your MAF sensor every year. If your MAF failed I would say it had almost nothing to do with the K&N. I would also wonder if the MAF actually failed or if someone just replaced it without cleaning it first or they tried to clean it and damaged the wires by trying to wipe them. I would also add that even without the K&N I would clean the MAF yearly anyhow. It's a maintenance item just like most other things on the car.

To the OP......as far as your speakers look at the 6.5" dual voice coil bazookas at kee audio. A lot of people run those with good results.

**617wingnut** · 09-23-2014, 05:43 PM

I don't mean to derail this thread on the air filter/MAF topic but is there a sticky devoted to these items? I tried finding information on these items before posting my question here but couldn't find anything.

**pajeff02** · 09-23-2014, 05:43 PM

Penzoil Platinum and Mobil1 are both full synthetic motor oils -- probably can't go wrong with either one imo.

**pajeff02** · 09-23-2014, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by 617wingnut

I don't mean to derail this thread on the air filter/MAF topic but is there a sticky devoted to these items? I tried finding information on these items before posting my question here but couldn't find anything.

Here is some good reading: Air Filtration Test - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy

**Nutball** · 09-23-2014, 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by shyboutin

!.....right now its looking like someone changed the R&P gear.... from what im finding, 2000rpm at 60 is high for 3.23s?

I would venture to say you are correct. I have a 3.73 and that's pretty much what I turn. I'm at 2000-2100 @ 60mph. These analog gauges are not the most accurate but, it's in the ball-park.

**shyboutin** · 09-24-2014, 12:44 AM

Orion- is it required to use the oil you can buy directly from K&N, also are there any special precautions to take while cleaning the filter or do you just use soap and water? Sorry I haven't don't a lot of looking into this subject yet.....and concerning the gears I have mixed feelings! I'm glad it possibly has 3.73s but that also scares me. The higher the gear ratio you get into is it true your 10 bolt rear is more likely to break? Also I might be made fun of for asking this but what is the difference in fuel economy between say 3.23s or 3.42s and 3.73s? Is it harder are your motor with it turning the extra rpms all the time when you have higher gears?... thanks again for all the info!

**Nutball** · 09-24-2014, 04:49 AM

I know this has been covered before.
Of course a 10 bolt is our weak spot. But those, like myself who don't race their car, not that big a deal. As for the mileage, very minor issue as far as I'm concerned. You might be losing 1-2 mpg and that's just a guess. At 65 mph before my gear swap I was turning somewhere in the neighborhood of 1700-1800 rpm(stock 2.73). So I increased 200-300 rpm. Personally, I'm not worried.
We all have LS1's....do you think were really concerned about the mileage we get? If I was concerned, I'd be driving a Focus. Actually I drive a '00' GMC Jimmy as my DD, not the greatest MPG for a V6 either. I't might be safe to say most out here have other daily drivers. And I'm also sure some out here drive their T/A, SS, Z28 as DD's. Could be for many different reasons. But 1 reason I'm sure of.....were not all that concerned about the MPG.

**0rion** · 09-24-2014, 06:09 AM

Originally Posted by shyboutin

Orion- is it required to use the oil you can buy directly from K&N, also are there any special precautions to take while cleaning the filter or do you just use soap and water? Sorry I haven't don't a lot of looking into this subject yet.....and concerning the gears I have mixed feelings! I'm glad it possibly has 3.73s but that also scares me. The higher the gear ratio you get into is it true your 10 bolt rear is more likely to break? Also I might be made fun of for asking this but what is the difference in fuel economy between say 3.23s or 3.42s and 3.73s? Is it harder are your motor with it turning the extra rpms all the time when you have higher gears?... thanks again for all the info!

yes....I would use K&N's recharger kit. I use a dry paint brush to remove loose debris then spray it with their cleaning solution and let it sit 10-15 minutes. Rinse that off and lay the filter in the sun a while to dry. When I put the oil on it gets a very light dusting of oil followed by patting it dry with a paper towel. I'll let that sit in the sun a while too before putting it back in.