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Exhaust setup 99 ws6

This is a discussion on Exhaust setup 99 ws6 within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Just bought a 99 ws6 with 6,300 miles. Looking to do exhaust right away. I've done some research. Has anyone ...

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    Exhaust setup 99 ws6

    Just bought a 99 ws6 with 6,300 miles. Looking to do exhaust right away. I've done some research. Has anyone done a setup similar to this? Pacesetter LT Heads and y pipe, with magna flow high flow cats followed by a single sweet thunder (or another chambered muffler dont know where to get sweet thunders) chambered muffler followed by corsa clone tips???

    Ive also heard some people buying stainless headers off E-bay...... thoughts????

    dont want any rasp just deep tone? New to ls1 world

    Thanks

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    Member 2-bowties&abird's Avatar
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    cam/lt headers
    blue 2000 ws6 m6

    Try muffler delete first...the cost will be minimal. See if you like that tone, that will be a starting point.

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    I've heard my buddies ws6 with just the muffler delete and I like how it sounds. But with new headers and down the road I plan on a cam and new heads. Wouldn't that get to be to loud or raspy without at least a tube chambered muffler ? I just want to do it right the first time instead of doing it three or four times. Thanks for any advice
    1999 TransAm WS6

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    Member 2-bowties&abird's Avatar
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    cam/lt headers
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    Well I guess too loud is a matter of opinion, on my old T/A which was cammed with LT headers no muffler under normal acceleration imo it wasn't that loud...now if I threw foot into it, it was loud as seven hells!!!

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    Exhaust is so subjective... it all depends upon your personal tastes. Many are running Pacesetters and ebay headers with good results. On the ebay headers you want to ensure that the bungs for the O2 senders are mounted at or above the parallel midpoint of the collectors. Go with new stock GM exhaust gaskets for the install and it is not a bad idea to upgrade to stainless bolts - preferably Stage 8 locking style.

    If you are doing the work yourself, may as well change out the spark plugs while you have things apart. To garner better access on the passenger side remove the coil bracket and be sure to pop the plastic pins up that secure the rubber cowl seal to the cowl with a flat blade screwdriver. Those little buggers will shred your hands in a hurry if you don't.

    Out back, rather than just making the system loud to begin with, you can go with something like a Magnaflow catback for a deep mellow tone that isn't raspy or loud. Add an electric cutout to the mid-pipe and you then have complete control over your car's sound. I went this route with our car and it is a whole lot of fun.

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    Thanks! Do you think I'll need new plugs with only 6,300 miles on car? Also I've had people say they do the engine mounts the same time they do headers.....worth it????

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcmacsten View Post
    Thanks! Do you think I'll need new plugs with only 6,300 miles on car? Also I've had people say they do the engine mounts the same time they do headers.....worth it????
    I'd change the spark plugs unless you doin a head swap and you can do em with the heads off the car but if just headers.. swap the plugs happy modding!!!

    Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk

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    cam/lt headers
    blue 2000 ws6 m6

    I bought another ws6 today, I sold the one I was referring to in my earlier post back in 2008 and I don't remember that car being as loud as this one is, or maybe it's because i'm older and don't like it as loud like i did in my late 20's! The one I just bought has headers, high flow cat, straight pipe to the tips no muffler and imo i think it needs a muffler to tone it down a touch!!!
    pajeff02 likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcmacsten View Post
    Thanks! Do you think I'll need new plugs with only 6,300 miles on car? Also I've had people say they do the engine mounts the same time they do headers.....worth it????
    With that mileage - no, you can leave the plugs alone. Swapping the engine mounts is a good idea - depending upon the headers you go with, I understand that it can make a difference in clearance. Swapping the mounts isn't terrible, but it also is not the easiest of projects. If you need some tips, say the word...

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    Thanks! I ordered my setup last night. TSP 7/8 headers. X pipe with two sweet thunders. Plan on going over the axle. And I did order poly motor mounts. Yes some advice on the mounts would be awesome!!! I do have a lift I'll be using.

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    Mark,

    The TSP 1 7/8" are a nicely made set of headers.

    I bought them because ARH or Kooks were out of my
    price range but i have had zero problems with them!

    I am sure you are already aware they have no AIR take off
    so all of that stuff can be launched over the hedge!!

    Trev


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    I did see that. The previous owner had bought a chip for it and already deleted the egr. Can I just use the programmer to delete the Air. And when you say (air) do you mean o2 sensors??

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    Mark,

    Not the O2's. It is the secondary AIR system for initial start up.

    Here is Jeff's removal tutorial....

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/seconda...emoval-130641/

    You'll see all of the superfluous stuff which can be ditched. There is a lot
    of hose there!!

    When you say the previous owner bought a chip?????? Curious on that one?
    But fundamentally, yes... the AIR will have to be deleted from the PCM to remove
    the SES light. But the PCM will have to be addressed anyhow to cover all of the
    new stuff to run optimally. When you mention the O2's, these will have to be
    covered in the tune also and the rears tuned out and bungs put in.

    I, like many, went the route of Steve Williams at Tuned By Frost for the PCM work.

    I am sure others will chime in with further things to cover in the install.


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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    air pump that starts up for the 1st few mins till the cat's warm up enough.

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    It's a hypertech power programmer III. Thanks for the advice and information. That weblink should make everything pretty easy thanks for sending that!!

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    Also wondering about panhard bar relocation bracket from Umi or bmr. Because I need it to run true duals over the axle. I know jegs use to make a relocation bracket for drivers side but I can't find it. Is it just something I'll have to fabricate myself???

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    I just installed a dynomax ultra flo and the rest is stock. It has a great sound under throttle and is quiet while cruising and at idle. With full exhaust it would sound even better without droning I think. Part number 17227. That's a 3inch inlet 2.5" outlets and there is also a 3 in 3 out model.

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    Hey guys thanks for all the advice. I put the tsp headers in and did a motor mount swap. The headers went in very easy all I had to do is remove the starter just so get a little more room and the oil dipstick. The motor mounts were a little tricky. On the passenger side mount the top front bolt the goes into the block it stripped out. So I put some washers on the bolt and tightened it as far as I could. I had to add about a 1/2 inch worth of washers. But all others went in perfect. I hope I don't run into problems. And now I have everything in and I can't find shop to run true duals over the axel. So I bought a universal 3" exhaust kit from jegs. Along with two sweet thunders, two high flow cats, x pipe and corsa clone tips. Going to do the exhaust myself. I have a lift and my dad is a dang good welder. Any advice on the setup??? Thanks

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    Why can't they run dual's over the axle?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcmacsten View Post
    Hey guys thanks for all the advice. I put the tsp headers in and did a motor mount swap. The headers went in very easy all I had to do is remove the starter just so get a little more room and the oil dipstick. The motor mounts were a little tricky. On the passenger side mount the top front bolt the goes into the block it stripped out. So I put some washers on the bolt and tightened it as far as I could. I had to add about a 1/2 inch worth of washers. But all others went in perfect. I hope I don't run into problems. And now I have everything in and I can't find shop to run true duals over the axel. So I bought a universal 3" exhaust kit from jegs. Along with two sweet thunders, two high flow cats, x pipe and corsa clone tips. Going to do the exhaust myself. I have a lift and my dad is a dang good welder. Any advice on the setup??? Thanks
    Don't weld completely, have a band clamp at the collector and one more just before it goes up over the axle. That way you can remove sections and not need to do the entire exhaust. V bands would be best but band camps work too. You may have an issue with the PHB if running duals. A relocation kit and adjustable PHB will give you best results for running 3" duals. If you plan on a Watt's link in the future you can give up on running duals over the axle. It won't clear.

    One more thing, if you plan on a wideband in the future now's the time to weld up a bung. you can get a bolt to close it off till you get a wide band.

    With a e-cutout you get the benefit of having the option of dumping it when you want (and sounds mean as f#$k) but also having it single and still able to run it over the axle with both PHB & Watt's Link.

    Mine is full 3" Mandrel Bend Stainless Steel, with a QTP e-cutout and Magnaflow muffler. It's funny because at idle, cutout close it's hard to tell I'm a cam 403ci but above 3k rpm's no hiding it, with cutout open.....

    Quote Originally Posted by 2-bowties&abird View Post
    Why can't they run dual's over the axle?
    see above as to why.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: Sway Bars, SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

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