Exhaust question (ORY pipe)

**initechpeter** · 07-23-2012, 11:14 AM

I have a few exhaust questions. I have a 2002 Trans Am. The Cats are bad and I live in Iowa where they don't test emissions. So my questions is I'm looking at the ORY pipes. I've been looking for awhile now and I'm ready to purchase one.

Who all here is using a ORY pipe and what brand do you have?

Any suggestion or concerns on the pipe as for installation or overall of the pipe?

How hard was it to install if you have floor jacks and basic hand tools?

My seached came up with SLP being the cheapest in price, but I know from experience there are others that found decent or even prefabs that work that are really cheap in price.

Anything would help out.

***SMWS6TA*** · 07-23-2012, 12:10 PM

Welcome to the site if no one has said it yet.

Stay away from SLP headers. They have issues with clearance. Most opinions here of the quality of SLP stuff are LM1, SLP Line Lock, and Air Lid are great, while everything else "sucks" would be a kind way to put it.

You'll find that you have many options when it comes to headers and 100x more opinions on what is the best brand.

Most ppl buy the headers and the ory together so that you know they will fit and work well together because they come from the same company.

My current set up is Pacesetter LT, Race style (which means EGR delete), TS&P ORY and Magnaflow Muffler. I like it has a nice rumble and when WOT roars like a lion.

Popular LT/ORY brands = Kooks, Pacesetter, Hooker, etc...

Check out the site sponsors for deals.

Something to know when considering brands/type headers

Shorties = suck, no gains and equal the same flow as stock manifolds
Mids = I would only recommend them if you live in Cali, otherwise no worth the money

LTs - Stainless > Ceramic > Wrapped > Painted

Look for stainless or Ceramic otherwise you'll be looking for another set in a few yrs.

Each brand has it's unique problems when installing them. Some you have to massage the firewall with a BFH, some you may have to notch the k member, and then there are others that make you remove the drivers side engine mount and lift the motor a tad. Also this is a great time to replace motor mounts if you need/want to. I like poly. You'll find that the passenger side is fairly easy (once the spark plugs are out) compared to the drivers side. At least it was for me.

Installation - easy but a little time consuming. For a beginner it will take 6-8 hrs with one other person. You will need someone to help hold in place the headers while you get a couple of bolts in there. REMEMBER ANTI-SEIZE We have a couple of how to threads here when you're ready look in the sticky threads or ask one of us and we'll link it to you. When you do my suggestion is to do all the top side stuff first then work on the bottom - little more organize and less up and down. You can do this in your garage or driveway, just need 4 jack stands that can get to at least 18" or higher. You'll want the room to maneuver.

**silverWS6** · 07-25-2012, 08:45 AM

I didn't see anything about getting headers in the original post? Will you be getting headers also? To be able to run the ORY you will also need lontubes or its recommended to have them, since most ORY's are 3 inches and stock piping is smaller than that. Also the driver side cat is too far up for a ORY to be able to eliminate it.

**pajeff02** · 07-26-2012, 05:12 PM

^^ This.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 07-27-2012, 07:56 AM

I would/did go headers and ORY over cat replacement or ORY only. Less hassle, it helps performance, sounds awesome and you wont have to waste money on rear o2's anymore, or worry about cats in the future. Depending on the strictness of your state on its inspections. We have no inspections here in OK.

Sent using my telèfono

**initechpeter** · 07-27-2012, 08:19 AM

I plan on doing headers, but i'm on a budget. I have a few things on the list that need to be done. Exhaust is one and Suspension is the other. I might just work on the suspension for now and put the exhaust off until next year. My goal is to have the motor stroked next year. So that would be a good time to do the exhaust work. IA doesn't do inspection either thats why i'm not putting the cats back on. Thanks for the help guys.

**robs98mysticZ** · 07-27-2012, 08:41 AM

ive got hooker lts ceramic and hooker ory....headers fit awesome no notching of the kmember or "massaging" the body whatsoever. the y pipe tucks up very nicely and has about the best clearance i think you could ask for
but like others have said ory wont work with stock manifolds. a couple companies used to make cat delete pipes(idk if they still do, i just remember seeing them) that do however work with the stock manifolds. Either way deleting cats or rear 02s your also gonna want to look into a tune as well to keep that pesky ses light from coming on. the site is sponsored by FROST. You send your pcm to him with what you have done he sends it back also known as mail order tune!

**SuperSSguy** · 07-27-2012, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by initechpeter

I have a few exhaust questions. I have a 2002 Trans Am. The Cats are bad and I live in Iowa where they don't test emissions. So my questions is I'm looking at the ORY pipes. I've been looking for awhile now and I'm ready to purchase one.

Who all here is using a ORY pipe and what brand do you have?

Any suggestion or concerns on the pipe as for installation or overall of the pipe?

How hard was it to install if you have floor jacks and basic hand tools?

My seached came up with SLP being the cheapest in price, but I know from experience there are others that found decent or even prefabs that work that are really cheap in price.

Anything would help out.

.............................KooKs IMO. Not cheap but is ''cheap'' what you really want? Quality wise they are built great and made to last!

**lipsasaurus** · 07-29-2012, 03:57 AM

i used floor jacks on my header install, just make sure you have a ratching wrench, it will save your life. i personally used the BBK LT headers and ORY, they fit like a glove and are super light weight, if you get the chrome they will turn colors on the first time the engine gets warm but it wont get any worse after the first time. The ORY is stainless, and btw the hardest part of the header install is the removal, good luck id be happy to assist.

**fbodyNATION** · 07-30-2012, 07:10 PM

i want headers,but in texas they do inspections theres nothing like the sound and feeling of headers i wish i could get around the inspection crap

**silverWS6** · 07-30-2012, 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by fbodyNATION

i want headers,but in texas they do inspections theres nothing like the sound and feeling of headers i wish i could get around the inspection crap

You could still get them, just gotta have a ORY with cats and get it tuned and you'll be fine

I've had two of my cars with LT's and offroad ORY's pass emissions in Texas (making a friend at a inspection place is also a good thing)

**Redrokit8** · 08-01-2012, 05:13 PM

Originally Posted by initechpeter

I plan on doing headers, but i'm on a budget. I have a few things on the list that need to be done. Exhaust is one and Suspension is the other. I might just work on the suspension for now and put the exhaust off until next year. My goal is to have the motor stroked next year. So that would be a good time to do the exhaust work. IA doesn't do inspection either thats why i'm not putting the cats back on. Thanks for the help guys.

Yep, the members here schooled me on building a strong foundation, see signature, before adding power. You've gotta have the suspension, brakes and body tightened up to compliment your future power adding mods. The last item I installed was Kook's L/T headers with their 3" Y-Pipe along with a pair of high flow cats. That put it all together and the PCM was sent out to Frost for a final tune.