car wont stay runing

**bvar20** · 03-17-2014, 08:07 PM

Can anyone help? My car cut off on me, I started it again it ran for a min and then it stalled out again, I did that a few times then it stopped turning over. I couldn't hear the fuel pump runing so I checked it and it was bad so I orrdered the racetronix replacement set up and now it starts but kills after a few seconds. What could be causing it to kill like that

**pajeff02** · 03-18-2014, 02:22 AM

VATS issue?

**bvar20** · 03-18-2014, 05:36 AM

Not sure how can I test it?

**pajeff02** · 03-18-2014, 03:07 PM

Start with the basics, clean the contacts on your key, or try the spare key to see if it'll start.

Takes fuel, air and spark to make her run... wouldn't hurt to scan it for codes. Since it isn't running now you can't see if the SES is lit. Here is a good VATS thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-byp...ur-vats-61262/

**bvar20** · 03-18-2014, 03:20 PM

I dont have a security light on and the car starts but only runs for a few seconds and then stalls out like its starving for gas. It did give me a trouble code po1080 the map sens the low
Trying to find its location now

**pajeff02** · 03-18-2014, 05:14 PM

The MAP sensor is on the very back of the intake manifold, passenger side. Just for giggles - check your ENG SENS fuse in the underhood electrical box. If that is ok - get a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and energize the ignition, check the reading, and then attempt to start it while watching the pressure.

**bvar20** · 03-18-2014, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

The MAP sensor is on the very back of the intake manifold, passenger side. Just for giggles - check your ENG SENS fuse in the underhood electrical box. If that is ok - get a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and energize the ignition, check the reading, and then attempt to start it while watching the pressure.

Thanks ill find a gauge tomorrow and check the fuse, ill let u know

**bvar20** · 03-19-2014, 04:48 PM

Originally Posted by bvar20

Thanks ill find a gauge tomorrow and check the fuse, ill let u know

The fuse was ok didnt get that gauge yet or find the map had traffic court today, ii took a look under the hood for the map sens, its not in plane site, is it ?

**pajeff02** · 03-20-2014, 02:53 AM

You won't see it without a mirror and a flashlight. It is on the very back of the intake manifold up against the firewall. Be careful back there as several members have broken off their OPSU (Oil Pressure Sending Unit) which is located next to the MAP sensor.

**bvar20** · 03-20-2014, 05:43 PM

I got a fuel pressure gauge and checked for pressure and the gauge never moved. I took loose the fuel line from the filter and turned the key on and I got gas coming out thru the filter but no pressure at the gauge, what u think about that?

**pajeff02** · 03-21-2014, 02:05 AM

Filter has been replaced? You didn't say which side of the filter you unhooked the line from. When you unhooked the line, was it coming out with force? Our cars run 58 psi for fuel pressure so it should have been squirting out fairly hard.

**bvar20** · 03-21-2014, 07:40 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Filter has been replaced? You didn't say which side of the filter you unhooked the line from. When you unhooked the line, was it coming out with force? Our cars run 58 psi for fuel pressure so it should have been squirting out fairly hard.

I took the line off the side going to the fuel rail, I had gas coming thru the filter like a faucet turned on, it wasnt like coming out of a sprayer but seemed to me to be pretty good

**bvar20** · 03-21-2014, 07:46 AM

No I haven't repkaced the filter to me it didnt seem to be the problem, I did notice that on my car, not sure if it the same on all but it looks like a pressure regulator connected to the fuel rail and in my service manual it says that the pressure regulator is in the gas tank on the 98

**0rion** · 03-22-2014, 01:45 PM

sure you had the gauge on the end of the rail good depressing the schrader valve? Doesn't make sense you'd have fuel on the rail side of the filter and not at the rail. Check that schrader valve with a screwdriver and see if gas spews out of it before putting your gauge on. You may have a bad valve and/or gauge.

**98TransAmWs-6** · 03-22-2014, 08:39 PM

Originally Posted by bvar20

I dont have a security light on and the car starts but only runs for a few seconds and then stalls out like its starving for gas. It did give me a trouble code po1080 the map sens the low
Trying to find its location now

Out of curiosity does the engine rev up high when you start it? Also will giving it a little gas prolong it from cutting off? This can be related to a bad MAP sensor if so and I had a similar experience with mine.

**bvar20** · 03-23-2014, 08:29 AM

No it started rough and dies after a few seconds and giving it gas didnt prolong it killing on me, I decided to pull the pump back out because I heard gas droping back in the tank, it was the pressure regulator it opened up so I closed it back and put the clamp back on it, I must have knocked it loose putting the racetronics pump on the sending unit. I droped it back in and it started but now the temp is shooting up to the red the fans are working, I changed the thermostat, and I dont see any leaks at the pump. I did notice that the temp sensor is damaged, but that shouldn't cause an overheating would it?

**pajeff02** · 03-23-2014, 11:50 AM

Sounds like the cooling system is airlocked. Our cars can be very finicky this way. With the engine cold, open the radiator cap and squeeze the hoses a couple of times to see if it burps air. You can also rock the car on its suspension a bit. Start the engine and after it runs just enough to rev on it safely crack the throttle several times and keep squeezing the hoses to work the air pocket out. If the temp shoots up, shut it down! Be careful not to blow coolant out the radiator fill cap and watch the belts so you don't lose any fingers.

**bvar20** · 03-23-2014, 04:11 PM

It was the coolant temp sensor causing the overheating. After I changed that I nitice the radiator cap was leaking, one thing after another with this thing, also I keep getting a misfire cyl 7. Now I changed the radiator cap twice its still leaking when I ooen the throttle, the miss fire has me puzzled aswell I put a new plug in that cyl it ran like a monster for a few min then the misfire came back same cyl. My next move is gonna be back to the fuel filter and change it, from there open for suggestions. The plug looked black but dry like sut

**pajeff02** · 03-24-2014, 02:22 AM

Make sure that the ignition wire on that cylinder is properly seated. You should hear/feel one "click" on the plug and two "clicks" on the coil pack.

**0rion** · 03-24-2014, 07:55 AM

Originally Posted by bvar20

It was the coolant temp sensor causing the overheating. After I changed that I nitice the radiator cap was leaking, one thing after another with this thing, also I keep getting a misfire cyl 7. Now I changed the radiator cap twice its still leaking when I ooen the throttle, the miss fire has me puzzled aswell I put a new plug in that cyl it ran like a monster for a few min then the misfire came back same cyl. My next move is gonna be back to the fuel filter and change it, from there open for suggestions. The plug looked black but dry like sut

leaks out the cap when you rev it? Is it pressurizing the coolant system when you rev the car?

as far as your #7 misfire.....has the car been over rev'd at some point maybe and bent a pushrod? Might want to check that and that number 7 injector....those could be things causing your misfire there.