Blinker lens on 4th gen TA

**qwik219d9** · 11-19-2018, 07:34 AM

Please tips: Blinker lens on 4th gen TA

I’ve owned my TA since 2001 and have had problems w/ the front blinkers bulbs getting wet & blowing up since ownership.

This new to me used bumper I’m in process of installing came w/ blinker lens however unlike my original lens these have 2 small holes where these holes from the factory? And should I use as is or should I seal them?

Previous gluing seal jobs where w/ cheap glue that probably failed over time. I now have some 3m 5200 marine glue this is a real almost permanent plastic weld.

What do you Guy’s suggest for the next set of blinker lens? Maybe a water proof bulb.
Any tips is appreciated

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-19-2018, 09:08 AM

I drilled 2 1/8" holes in my housings to drain the condensation out of the housing. Either someone did it already (if used) or the manufactures finally gotten smart on it and it's part of the housing now.

Since then I've yet to have issues.

**qwik219d9** · 11-20-2018, 03:09 AM

excellent advice as usale Thanks Scott

these holes are 1/16th" aren't exactly at the lowest point of the housings seams like condensation turned to water will still stay inside housing.

I always thought these lens get cracked from road rocks then leaked.

so it's the condensation that everyone refers to as blinker fuild?
so these housings won't need to be sealed?

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-20-2018, 05:56 AM

No sealing needed but can't hurt. I would drill out to 1/8", I placed one directly under the bulb area since that's where it would pool up and make contact with the bulb. At least that's my logic.

"Blinker Fluid" - reminds me of my Army days hazing new Pvt's

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-20-2018, 06:00 AM

I did the LED conversion 2 yrs ago and haven't had an issue since. Better lighting and the bulbs are cooler and don't heat soak the plastic housing.

I do have a thread on how to in the Gen Help section. You can do it in sections and not the whole car like I did. Meaning you can just do the signal and marker lights without doing the head lights.

https://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/how-br...id-led-185822/

**qwik219d9** · 11-20-2018, 07:51 AM

OK I'll enlarge the holes, I'll take some time and read you're thread on lighting. excellent work you do here.

in you'r initiale response you state you resolved the wet bulb blowing up was this a regular incandescent or the new LEDs? also are the new LEDs waterproof.
I rarely drive this car anymore and really never at night but really need working blinkers

the cops will ticket you for illegal lane change so when there behind me I operate the lever manuely ghetto style but in fairness to the others in front of me prior to a turn it's kindof rude.

thanks again

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-20-2018, 07:58 AM

The holes helped a lot but the LED's is where I think it made the most in resolving it all.

The LEd's are much, much cooler than the regular incandescent bulbs and that's what causes them to blow out is the heat and water contact.

**Redphoenix1998** · 11-20-2018, 12:17 PM

lots of dielectric grease and yes drilling holes at the botton of the housing

**qwik219d9** · 01-22-2019, 03:16 AM

Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998

lots of dielectric grease and yes drilling holes at the botton of the housing

are the holes you mention though the underneth where the bulb is inserted? or are the current holes though the actuel lens good enought?
I wanting new DRLs so I waiting for advice on sockects appaently I have to test the GM socket wires before I order the socket, I' ve usually get these sockects from a simiaril GM used parts.
I plan to swap front sockects/LED bulbs/resistors one for each bulbs on wire.

***SMWS6TA*** · 01-22-2019, 06:39 AM

There are no holes in the housing as it comes form the factory or the replacements. By drilling the holes on the bottom side of the housing you give it a drain for when condensation builds up in the housing and lets it drain out. The oem style bulbs die from the condensation and heat from the bulb. I've found that the drain hole and swapping over to led's I haven't changed a bulb in the 2-3 yrs I've done this. Before I was changing a bulb sometimes once a month, others every 3-4 months, depending on how heavy it rained here.

**Whamhammer** · 01-26-2019, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

There are no holes in the housing as it comes form the factory or the replacements. By drilling the holes on the bottom side of the housing you give it a drain for when condensation builds up in the housing and lets it drain out. The oem style bulbs die from the condensation and heat from the bulb. I've found that the drain hole and swapping over to led's I haven't changed a bulb in the 2-3 yrs I've done this. Before I was changing a bulb sometimes once a month, others every 3-4 months, depending on how heavy it rained here.

I have had my lamps craked (vertically) right down the lamps middle.

I am experimenting with a cell phone display protector, on my new lamps to see if it helps any too.

**qwik219d9** · 02-28-2019, 07:02 AM

Sure hope all this stuff works together.here’s the sockects
https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Pre-W...ag=googhydr-20
here’s the bulbs & resistors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what do you Guy’s think will my 99TA once again have front DLR & blinkers the rears are orginal.
I think I read some crapola that I needed a new flasher too. So I’m still totally confused.

I'd actuelly like to disconnect the DRL and just have blinkers w/ the option of turning on DRL.

**TransAmTerry** · 03-11-2019, 06:36 AM

There is a thread started a while back called "The Saga of the TransAm Parking Light" that has a lot of ways people 'solved' their problems. I posted a bunch on that starting on page 7 of that thread. My method continues to work after 6 years with 0 problems. Would be a good read if you have the time.

**DarrenWS6** · 06-04-2019, 08:44 PM

Every vehicle I own I use overhaul with LEDs. The WS6 was no exception. My lenses were cloudy and tired looking, and my passenger bulb harness was burnt up. I bought the amber 3157 Sylvania Zevo LEDs and changed the thermal flasher relay to the electronic type ( low load friendly for LED ) and have been extremely happy. Not a single problem for 3yrs.

**qwik219d9** · 12-23-2019, 07:17 AM

excellent video I thought there were two flashers front and rear.

you swapped one is this why the rear is fast and the front w/ LED is now normal?

I don't think I'd care if either where fast or slow just so they blink.

BTW very nice TA it looks exactly like mine minus the clught is the interior black w/ grey seats?

**DarrenWS6** · 12-26-2019, 03:02 AM

Originally Posted by qwik219d9

excellent video I thought there were two flashers front and rear.

you swapped one is this why the rear is fast and the front w/ LED is now normal?

I don't think I'd care if either where fast or slow just so they blink.

BTW very nice TA it looks exactly like mine minus the clught is the interior black w/ grey seats?

Yes 2 flasher relays, one for signals and one for the hazards. The hazard one has all 4 blink at once and the LEDs do not have an effect to it. The signal one does need changed as it is running with more filament bulbs and a low current LED.

Thank you sir, mine is the ebony interior the 2000-2002s came with.