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Best 1/4 time
This is a discussion on Best 1/4 time within the Firebird / WS6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones Well that's not something we can base off of. In all honesty, these magazine tests can ...
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07-23-2010, 04:43 PM #81
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07-23-2010, 05:41 PM #82
i ran 12.97@110.2mph with cat back lid and a new clutch and flywheel also it was on sumotmo htr Z's 255's only one good pass that day next pass i broke my axle....
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07-23-2010, 08:06 PM #83
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07-25-2010, 08:33 AM #84
that gives me hope... I've already got good enough tires I think. They are the street NITTO 555's (NOT the DR's), but they are 315/35/R17's. That width I think will help a lot. As for the LCA's... I have UMI tublars, so Ill Invest in relocation brackets. SFC's will be after I get new sway bar bushings, and fix my warped rotors.
Hopefully all this stuff will help get a little more out of the car. If I can get my car down to the mid-low 12's I'll be happy.
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07-25-2010, 10:34 AM #85
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07-25-2010, 10:41 AM #86
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
Go at least 3500 and 3.73's if you are wanting better ET's.
Would still be plenty tame on the street and perform much better for you.
Larger wider tires can hinder performance a touch. Weight, and rolling resistance play a small role.
Also, do not warm up a street tire. They will get slicker. Turn them over once to clean them, otherwise just drop the pressure a little and go at it.
In the end....go out and have fun. Always try to get a new personal best each time out...and enjoy it.
Unless you are making money racing, it is just for fun anyways.
I know I am always wanting more out of mine....thinking drag sway bar for the rear along with 28x10.5x15 Hoosier slicks and 4.56's this winter if I can swing it. Want to push that 11.49 bar limit at my altitude on motor.
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07-26-2010, 02:11 AM #87
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07-26-2010, 08:55 AM #88
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
It would be a lot different.
But I never have.
Would likely need tweaking.
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07-26-2010, 09:12 AM #89
Definately. I find going from 5-6,000 feet where I live, down to 1200 feet where the track is, my AFR changes a solid 3-4 tenths towards lean, sometimes more depending on the weather.
The cars go lean when I drive down to the lower elevations. Up here I have to pull fuel for them to run crisp. Otherwise they feel a bit soggy.
If it's something you plan to do alot of, it would pay to invest in HPtuner for these cars. I keep seperate tunes that I've worked on. Flash in the lower elevation tune when going racing, but most of the time I just leave in the upper elevation tune since the cars spend most of their time up here. You'll also find you can tweak the timing tables a bit.
On the carbed cars (depending on the carb) using an HP holley with adjustable air bleeds, I've got it down to where I can simply change the air bleeds, takes 2 minutes. But it took alot of testing to get it to that point. Other factory style carbs that aren't as versatile are a bit more involved.
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07-26-2010, 11:28 AM #90
quick et
13.59 @ 106.6,no tires, no mods, no tune,just as it came off the assembly line
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07-26-2010, 12:48 PM #91
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07-27-2010, 03:14 AM #92
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- Undercover Tortoise
If you never tried out an elevation calculator you might want to give it a shot instead of just running down to lower elevation. I understand this is newb trying to teach vet but figured one never knows. May save you a headache.
Based on an 11.5 second run (that is you best right?) and the lowest point in Colorado (3350 feet along the Arkansas river) your time is 10.83. The average elevation (6811 feet) of the state brings it to 10.13. Not doing highest point because I doubt your drag racing on top of the Rockies. Not sure exactly how accurate this is but at least you know you can run tens at the right elevation.
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07-27-2010, 03:23 AM #93
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Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
^^^Yeah his car would be a lot different. I was wondering if he had felt the power his car has, at a normal track elevation. It'd be like he was in a completely different car that happened to look just like his!
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07-27-2010, 06:07 AM #94
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07-27-2010, 07:21 AM #95
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- Undercover Tortoise
Well I'm just saying that your T/A is more than capable of tens is all. No need to be sad faced over it considering how high up you run. Yeah, no claims but when I was shown your video i had no idea why you had over 500 RWHP and running only a high 11. I seriously doubted whether I wanted 500 N/A if that was all it would net me. Now I can't get the idea of boost out of my skull cap.
What would you need to hit the 11.5 mark?
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07-27-2010, 07:32 AM #96
Exactly. Just because you didn't run the number a mile high in the sky doesn't mean you can't. And that's what correction factors are for. If it wasn't for the correction factors, you couldn't even tune the car properly, let alone worry about how fast it goes.
Luos has a good running car. Alot of people don't realize he is running at Bandimere, or if they do, they don't know how high up it is or how the altitude affects a car.
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07-27-2010, 07:35 AM #97
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07-27-2010, 07:36 AM #98
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07-27-2010, 07:42 AM #99
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07-27-2010, 07:44 AM #100
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
1.68 spinning.
Car has a bog when it dead hooks. Of course, that is with a 27" QTP and 4.11's.
Thinking 4.56's clear that up. May need a little more work on the tune as well.
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