Best 1/4 time

[Mike0202]

Well that's not something we can base off of. In all honesty, these magazine tests can go many different ways.
Some tests don't even visit a drag strip, they just strap a wheel on the car to measure distance and use a stop watch, the more advanced method now is to just stick a G-tech on the dash

The mags that do actually hit the strip,,,99% of the time they go to places like Atco where they are at sea level, and even then it's usually 50 degrees outside where they have at or below sea level DA numbers. Usually during the winter months when the track is closed to the general public.
To top that off, who is to say these mags don't get a test car that has been tweaked in some way, shape or form???

Either way none of it is really relevant to real world conditions we all see. So you just have to take it for what it's worth. Base it off your own times with stock cars, if there is such a thing anymore.
I can tell you I've had 4 of these cars, some of which I bought new. Either way they were all bone stock at the time of purchase, and I never had one of them trap even close to 107 mph, both autos and sticks. That's not to say they wouldn't have. Maybe the 5th one will?? Good luck finding a real bone stocker now,,,,but 1 out of 5 isn't a very good percentage anyway.

I saw another one from popular mech 99 that traped 107 as well. I didnt think it was very rare.

[blackbirdbrain89]

i ran 12.97@110.2mph with cat back lid and a new clutch and flywheel also it was on sumotmo htr Z's 255's only one good pass that day next pass i broke my axle....

[Mike0202]

i ran 12.97@110.2mph with cat back lid and a new clutch and flywheel also it was on sumotmo htr Z's 255's only one good pass that day next pass i broke my axle....

I believe it. Ive seen it before.

[AKA Speedy]

My car (02 SS, M6) with just a lid ran a 13.7 at 105MPH on stock tires.

After my suspension, rear/gear, LTs, exhaust, and Nitto's I ran a 13.19 at 107MPH. I'm pretty sure I can get that into the high 12's with practice though.

If you want better traction...a) SFC's b) LCA's with relocation brackets c) Torque Arm and d) Tires.

that gives me hope... I've already got good enough tires I think. They are the street NITTO 555's (NOT the DR's), but they are 315/35/R17's. That width I think will help a lot. As for the LCA's... I have UMI tublars, so Ill Invest in relocation brackets. SFC's will be after I get new sway bar bushings, and fix my warped rotors.

Hopefully all this stuff will help get a little more out of the car. If I can get my car down to the mid-low 12's I'll be happy.

[INMY01TA]

If I can get my car down to the mid-low 12's I'll be happy.

Then you'll want 11s.

[Mr. Luos]

I'm looking at a yank 3200 stall and 3.42 rear gears for the future.

Go at least 3500 and 3.73's if you are wanting better ET's.
Would still be plenty tame on the street and perform much better for you.

Larger wider tires can hinder performance a touch. Weight, and rolling resistance play a small role.
Also, do not warm up a street tire. They will get slicker. Turn them over once to clean them, otherwise just drop the pressure a little and go at it.

In the end....go out and have fun. Always try to get a new personal best each time out...and enjoy it.
Unless you are making money racing, it is just for fun anyways.


I know I am always wanting more out of mine....thinking drag sway bar for the rear along with 28x10.5x15 Hoosier slicks and 4.56's this winter if I can swing it. Want to push that 11.49 bar limit at my altitude on motor.

[Too Fast]

Go at least 3500 and 3.73's if you are wanting better ET's.
Would still be plenty tame on the street and perform much better for you.

Larger wider tires can hinder performance a touch. Weight, and rolling resistance play a small role.
Also, do not warm up a street tire. They will get slicker. Turn them over once to clean them, otherwise just drop the pressure a little and go at it.

In the end....go out and have fun. Always try to get a new personal best each time out...and enjoy it.
Unless you are making money racing, it is just for fun anyways.


I know I am always wanting more out of mine....thinking drag sway bar for the rear along with 28x10.5x15 Hoosier slicks and 4.56's this winter if I can swing it. Want to push that 11.49 bar limit at my altitude on motor.

Have you ever been to a lower altitude? Either trailering your car or driving it to a lower altitude drag strip? I bet she'd feel like a whole different animal. Probably have to re-tune somewhat.

[Mr. Luos]

It would be a lot different.
But I never have.

Would likely need tweaking.

[Firebirdjones]

It would be a lot different.
But I never have.

Would likely need tweaking.

Definately. I find going from 5-6,000 feet where I live, down to 1200 feet where the track is, my AFR changes a solid 3-4 tenths towards lean, sometimes more depending on the weather.
The cars go lean when I drive down to the lower elevations. Up here I have to pull fuel for them to run crisp. Otherwise they feel a bit soggy.

If it's something you plan to do alot of, it would pay to invest in HPtuner for these cars. I keep seperate tunes that I've worked on. Flash in the lower elevation tune when going racing, but most of the time I just leave in the upper elevation tune since the cars spend most of their time up here. You'll also find you can tweak the timing tables a bit.

On the carbed cars (depending on the carb) using an HP holley with adjustable air bleeds, I've got it down to where I can simply change the air bleeds, takes 2 minutes. But it took alot of testing to get it to that point. Other factory style carbs that aren't as versatile are a bit more involved.

[nightcreacher]

13.59 @ 106.6,no tires, no mods, no tune,just as it came off the assembly line

[35th-ANV-SS]

13.59 @ 106.6,no tires, no mods, no tune,just as it came off the assembly line

Your car came with no tires?

[Twin .44]

It would be a lot different.
But I never have.

Would likely need tweaking.

If you never tried out an elevation calculator you might want to give it a shot instead of just running down to lower elevation. I understand this is newb trying to teach vet but figured one never knows. May save you a headache.

Based on an 11.5 second run (that is you best right?) and the lowest point in Colorado (3350 feet along the Arkansas river) your time is 10.83. The average elevation (6811 feet) of the state brings it to 10.13. Not doing highest point because I doubt your drag racing on top of the Rockies. Not sure exactly how accurate this is but at least you know you can run tens at the right elevation.

[Too Fast]

^^^Yeah his car would be a lot different. I was wondering if he had felt the power his car has, at a normal track elevation. It'd be like he was in a completely different car that happened to look just like his!

[Mr. Luos]

If you never tried out an elevation calculator you might want to give it a shot instead of just running down to lower elevation. I understand this is newb trying to teach vet but figured one never knows. May save you a headache.

Based on an 11.5 second run (that is you best right?) and the lowest point in Colorado (3350 feet along the Arkansas river) your time is 10.83. The average elevation (6811 feet) of the state brings it to 10.13. Not doing highest point because I doubt your drag racing on top of the Rockies. Not sure exactly how accurate this is but at least you know you can run tens at the right elevation.

I have used altitude and DA calcs.

11.90 is my best at Bandimere (5800 feet up...DA of 8000). Although I want 11.50 out of it. Needs a few tweaks for that though.

Seen anything from 10.6 to 11.1 from calcs. Won't claim it until I do it though. Most show 128-130 MPH.

[Twin .44]

I have used altitude and DA calcs.

11.90 is my best at Bandimere (5800 feet up...DA of 8000). Although I want 11.50 out of it. Needs a few tweaks for that though.

Seen anything from 10.6 to 11.1 from calcs. Won't claim it until I do it though. Most show 128-130 MPH.

Well I'm just saying that your T/A is more than capable of tens is all. No need to be sad faced over it considering how high up you run. Yeah, no claims but when I was shown your video i had no idea why you had over 500 RWHP and running only a high 11. I seriously doubted whether I wanted 500 N/A if that was all it would net me. Now I can't get the idea of boost out of my skull cap.

What would you need to hit the 11.5 mark?

[Firebirdjones]

Well I'm just saying that your T/A is more than capable of tens is all. No need to be sad faced over it considering how high up you run.

Exactly. Just because you didn't run the number a mile high in the sky doesn't mean you can't. And that's what correction factors are for. If it wasn't for the correction factors, you couldn't even tune the car properly, let alone worry about how fast it goes.

Luos has a good running car. Alot of people don't realize he is running at Bandimere, or if they do, they don't know how high up it is or how the altitude affects a car.

[Firebirdjones]

What would you need to hit the 11.5 mark?

At that altitude, probably another 75 HP

[Mr. Luos]

What would you need to hit the 11.5 mark?

Thinking 4.56's and maybe a drag sway bar.

I know what the car is capable of. Not 'sad-faced' about it. Actually quite surprised with how it ran. Didn't expect 117-118MPH and 11's.

[Firebirdjones]

Thinking 4.56's and maybe a drag sway bar.

I know what the car is capable of. Not 'sad-faced' about it. Actually quite surprised with how it ran. Didn't expect 117-118MPH and 11's.

Are your 60 foots suffering??

[Mr. Luos]

1.68 spinning.

Car has a bog when it dead hooks. Of course, that is with a 27" QTP and 4.11's.
Thinking 4.56's clear that up. May need a little more work on the tune as well.