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Thread: Balancer

  1. #1
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    Balancer

    I've noticed that my Harmonic Balancer is a little bit wobbly and I have a couple questions for anyone who has more knowledge than me. I want to ensure that all my mods are listed and as well as future mods. Right now I have Long Tube ARH, Volant CAI, ported and polished TB, and tuned (probably need to do it again just moved from NC to AZ). I do have a very small amp running a sub which eventually I will upgrade to a better system. My future upgrades will be a head and cam package (not sure yet) and maybe if I'm lucky to have some spare money laying around a procharger. Now that that is all out of the way, the AC delco replacement part is discontinued and the only one I see is a Dorman OE replacment. I can't say I have an issue against them I just rather use a GM part than a knock off and in that case since I plan on getting head/cam is it a good idea to get a underdrice pulley now or wait? Also will it affect my alternator/battery that much? I'm sorry for the long question but as you see in torn on what to do. Any advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated as well as part numbers if anyone has a good suggestion for a pulley or a OE replacment.

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    If it were me I would go ahead and put the under drive on. I've ran one for years with zero charging issues. Rock Auto has the ac delco replacement (part number 12553118 ) but like I say.....I would put that money towards an under drive pulley.

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    What is the better choice for a underdrive pulley? I've seen the the powerbond underdrive 25% seems to be good but I'm sure there are others out there. Also the replacment isn't available anymore. Jegs supplier stated that the part is discontinued and amazon says the same thing. I haven't tried Rock but other sites I've looked at say the same thing that the part is no longer available. Also I forgot to mention my car is an '02 Trans Am in my initial post.
    Last edited by ceroberts30; 04-07-2015 at 05:43 PM.

  4. #4
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    Balancer

    ATI Underdrive pulley...
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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    I've read that the ATI is really good but kind of expensive (which I don't mind as long as it's a good product), but the one thing is thier website is so confusing (I'm not a new or a young person, but talk about over my head). I did send them an email asking for help but I always appreciate any suggestions.

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    ATI is the top shelf of what your looking for. I've never heard any negative reviews of their stuff (except cost).

    IMHO getting an underdrive pulley with your current mods and more importantly current driving status I would not recommend getting one. Honestly you can gain what you want by other means and still not worry about the alternator having enough rotation to charge.

    A 10-15% gain on your current mods is about what 20-35hp? A 100 shot of Nitrous would be a better investment.


    If you're really looking to help your ride and in the long run help in your long term goals of H/C upgrade then work on the suspension first. A good set of sub frame connectors and LCA's will go a long way in helping the car hookas well as a torque arm too.

    You can have all the power in the world and still go no where if you can't get traction. I beat a LS2 GTO with some mods with my LS1 and mild bolt on's because I got traction and he didn't.

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    I would never use NOS on my cars. To many ways to mess and engine up. That's why I stated going with a procharger eventually. Suspension upgrades are very important I'm doing those as well I just need to solve the problem that's in front of me....I have wobble on my balancer and the direct part is not available (shows available on websites but when try to order supplier says discontinued) or would cost me @150. I don't feel comfortable going with the Dorman replacment that cost $60. That is were the conversation came up about the underdrive pulley. I dont care about crazy gains that will come later I want a reliablity.
    Last edited by ceroberts30; 04-08-2015 at 11:23 AM.

  8. #8
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    did you email rock auto? They may surprise you. Sounds like your mind is pretty well made up on what you want....so what's the question again?

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    I'll try to talk with Rock and see what they say. But the question is, should I replace with factory part or go with underdrive. My reasoning is I'm spending roughly $100 now and possibly spend money in the future for a underdrice. Should I just get the underdrive now or just do factory part? And if underdrive is the way to go, who should I go with and what part number (ATI's website is confusing).

  10. #10
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    there really is no downside to doing the underdrive now......sounds like you have to replace the balancer one way or the other and I would go ahead and do it now. I run a powerbond on mine which has been a nice piece. Supposedly it's the same as the SLP balancer and both have higher walls. That being said.....any of the name brand pulleys would do just fine.


    How much wobble are we talking here and are you sure it's in the balance and not a loose bolt?

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    I checked the bolt and it was tight a few months ago (its been sitting cause i had to save some money up to get a new clutch, slave, and master cylinder so i havent been under the hood) and it is the original bolt/balancer (don't know the life span on these but thats a long time) so I'm sure it's time to replace. Also another issue is that my belts squeak and I've replace everything else but the balancer and the squeak is always there unless I use gatorbacks.

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Well I currently using the Powerbond $65 from O'Reilly's for my 403ci build. no issues so far....but I just got it running and haven't had a full tune yet.

    I must have missed the SC part, I offer the Nitrous only as an example of where to spin $$ and get better gains. On stock internals LS1 can handle up to 125 shot easy, after that you'll need to start looking for better internals. For some reason Turbos are were it's at right now, at least in my area. I know a guy that was putting out 700+ on a turbo 5.3 with stock crank till an oil line failure happen.

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    And sorry didn't really answer the question. The wobble is enough to be easily recognized while idle so I'm sure it gets worse when rpm's go higher.

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    any chance you could shoot a video and post it on youtube and link it in here?

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    I understand about the nitrous I just have never liked it. Now if I run into money then I'll build an engine and get NOS and everything else. I have seen turbos are the new thing now I just know that I have to wait to do anything crazy right now. I have step process in my head for upgrades and Procharger/NOS/turbo is all at the very end of my upgrades.

  16. #16
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    I would do a video but it's at the shop (I don't have a big garage so I had to pay for someone to do the work) I know I'm a sinner, but at least I got the parts I wanted and they will give me a 3 year warranty on the work. Hopefully it will get done soon so I can post a video.

  17. #17
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    Ain't nothing wrong with having someone do the work.

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    I just enjoy doing it myself as well as learning new things....never had a chance to drop a trany and replace a clutch, slave/master cylinders before.

  19. #19
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    Check Summit Racing. They have a couple of options under $100 including one from Chevrolet Performance (yes a GM factory part). Make sure you get a new bolt as you can not reuse the old one. Most go with the factory style bolt due to the torque procedure for installing.

  20. #20
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    I don't, spend the $30 and get the ARP one that can be reused. Extra bonus, it gets torque to 235ftlbs, none of this torque to yield BS.

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