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  1. #1
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    Alternator Questions/Problems Please help

    Alright i have had my alternator rebuilt 3-4 times in the last week. and before i put it on my car i have it tested at oriellys and the shop where its built and it comes out with flying colors.....but the first time i put it on my car and drove it i couldnt get above 1200 rpms with out it dropping volts...So i had it rebuilt and it was working fine till last night i got on it half throttle and my voltage went right to 11 and it has stayed there....doesnt spike doesnt dropp. and i have had it load tested and it doesnt say its being overloaded. does this sound like an alternator problem or something causing it to make the alternator malfunction prematurely

  2. #2
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Voltage regulator I hear is very common, and I think has been mentioned in some of your previous threads.

    I would honestly try a new alt, brand new if you have the cash. The voltage regualtor will be brand new as well, and youll have narrowed the problem.

    if the problem persists after the new alt, return it. Make sure you hold onto your old alt and pay the core charge until you know for a fact its the alt thats bad.

  3. #3
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    ya thats what the guy replaced lol but thats what i plan on doing is gettin a new one i jus hope it doesnt persist, also what about the pig tail.. i had my powersteering leak on it ,,,could it cause it to be doing this, but when i take it off the prongs on the alternator, they are clean and the pigtail isnt melted or warped of any kind, and does it matter if the copper braided line that is in the same harness as the pigtail touches the alternator while the car is running?? im jus throwing out ideas at this point lol

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdformula View Post
    and does it matter if the copper braided line that is in the same harness as the pigtail touches the alternator while the car is running?? im jus throwing out ideas at this point lol
    That should be ok and not cause any problems. I'd look into replacing that pigtail connector. That could be your problem. Search this site for it, its come up a few times as a problem on several cars.

  5. #5
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    but if the pig tail was the problem how come the alternators test bad and it doesnt do it from the get go lol...GAH I HATE ELECTRICAL STUFF if i have to get one i can get it at napa for 30 bux

  6. #6
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    yeah I see your point. If the alt tests bad, then its bad and the pigtail might not be the problem. My next guess is poor rebuild parts. Might be time to get a new alt, used alt or a reman'd unit from a different store

  7. #7
    Junior Member cocobolo95's Avatar
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    One of the major problems with buying rebuilt electronics is that the rebuilding companies, to save money and maximize profits, are fitting cheap imported components from china and other such places. These components have a high failure rate.

  8. #8
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    Ya we ordered a new one today I hope this fixes is.... But could the pig tail be causing the alternator to malfunction prematurely? Even tho the load tests say it's not being over loaded...?

  9. #9
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    Check all your connections too. How old is the battery?

  10. #10
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    It's a brand new battery ...I really think the connections are good bkuz when I do a load test it says everything is fine and I'm not overloading it....is there a way to jus check the pig tail to the alternator????????

  11. #11
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    this doesn't directly answer your question but this is one of my favorite threads on the subject
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133361

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    this doesn't directly answer your question but this is one of my favorite threads on the subject
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133361
    Thanks Cutlass


    OP if you have any questions about my thread just ask me. I went through that hell a couple months ago. Got stuck 40 miles from house.

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdformula View Post
    ya thats what the guy replaced lol but thats what i plan on doing is gettin a new one i jus hope it doesnt persist, also what about the pig tail.. i had my powersteering leak on it ,,,could it cause it to be doing this, but when i take it off the prongs on the alternator, they are clean and the pigtail isnt melted or warped of any kind, and does it matter if the copper braided line that is in the same harness as the pigtail touches the alternator while the car is running?? im jus throwing out ideas at this point lol
    I had another thread about this subject. My PS leaked all over the alternator. If enough fluid get's inside it fries, no fixing it. Hate to say it but you NEED to address the PS leak while fixing the alternator. If you don't you will be buying another one real soon. My leak was from a .70 cent O ring that failed on high pressure hose from the rack/pinion goes into the pump.

    Here's the thread
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133238
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 06-30-2010 at 10:17 AM. Reason: added thread

  14. #14
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    Ya I have fixed the powersteering leak.. Lol but my luck as soon as get a brand new alternator it's goin to leak on it lol

  15. #15
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    like I posted earlier, It's most likely it's that damn O ring. Autozone has the tool to pull the PS off and install it back on. Took me 1 to 1 1/2 hr of work to fix

  16. #16
    Member Firebirdformula's Avatar
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    ya my alternator comes off dry as a bone not even a drop on it

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